Replies

1. 
   IanDGilham_ | Jan 21, 2002 01:06pm | #1

   *
   Very difficult, unfortunately, however here's what to do to give you the best shot.
   Take a utility knife and run it along the join between the ash and the maple to leave a slight 'trench'
   Mask off the maple with clear plastic tape -- not masking tape -- the thin stuff you use for sealing letters, etc.
   Push the edge of this tape down into the bottom of the 'trench' -- an easy way to do it is to let it overlap the join and cut it off along the join, then push the cut edge down.
   Make sure the tape is stuck down to the floor -- if necessary warm it up with a heat-gun or hairdryer and rub it with a rag -- you mustn't leave an edge sticking up so the stain can get underneath.
   Stain the ash and when you come to the edge make sure you brush the stain from the tape towards the centre, not towards the tape or again, there's a danger of the stain going underneath.

   Good luck

1. 
   Paul_Zind | Jan 22, 2002 04:09am | #2

   *Thanks alot Ian, I'll give that a try. If you don't mind me asking, would it be better if I apply the stain with a rag and rub it in as opposed to painting it on. I did that once and it works well maybe it will give me more control of the stain. Also I have some holes to fill (knots and slight gaps) What is the best way? Sawdust slurry or wood filler. Or maybe there is a magic new way. Please don't tell me to use better grade wood, I already KNOW that!

1. 
   Mad_Dog | Jan 22, 2002 04:48am | #3

   *Paul,Another trick would be to take a candle and rub the edges of the maple the whole way down with wax. The stain won't want to get into the wax. A possible drawback is that you may have trouble finishing the maple though. If you could clearcoat the maple first, maybe the wax would be a good plan. Otherwise, I'd use a combination of your idea and Ian's.

1. 
   IanDGilham_ | Jan 22, 2002 05:24am | #4

   *If you've already applied stain with a rag and you're happy with that method -- go for it.Sawdust slurry isn't good if you are staining -- it will go very much darker than the surrounding timber. You can use a wood filler, but test first to see if it will take stain. If the holes aren't too big, then linseed oil putty (glazier's putty) can have some stain mixed with it to make a colored filler that will be compatible with oil finish. If you go with that, fill after staining.I wouldn't tell you to use better wood -- sometimes knots can look really attractive in a floor.

1. 
   Greg_Warren | Jan 22, 2002 05:58am | #5

   *When I want to make parquet into a checkerboard(one dark, one light), I just use blue tape at the seams and press it down firmly. Use a small paint brush to apply a thin coat of stain at the edges to limit bleed through. Pull tape off after stain process and lightly scrape off any excess stain before top coating the entire floor. GW

2. 
   Paul_Zind | Jan 23, 2002 04:27am | #6

   *Thank you all for the feedback. Marilyn is still re-reading your posts (I've lost count how many times!)Will post some pic's when the job is done - but it will be a long while - we have a 1870's brick which we are renovating on weekend's only and these things take time.Greg, Marilyn was wondering what is blue tape and if it's not available at the big box stores where can we find it?Paul

3. 
   Jim_Lovatt | Jan 23, 2002 06:26pm | #7

   *Paul/Marilyn, blue tape is a high quality masking tape, (probably made by 3M). It is readily available at big box stores and paint stores. It is much better at preventing bleed through and doesn't tear badly on removal. As with all masking tapes, you should seal the edges with your finger.

4. 
   IanDGilham_ | Jan 23, 2002 07:21pm | #8

   *Seeing that it's often as important to know how to correct the cock-up as to prevent it in the first place -- if you do get stain on the maple, the best way to get it off is with a very sharp scraper, used with the grain. You'll find it's much easier to control than using sandpaper.