Here is my concept for doing the stair finish that’s coming up. The angled screws shown in the pic are in pockets. If it is more appropriate to run the tread back under the riser, doing so will put me into needing to buy tread stock in a wide special-order size. Look OK to you?
Listeners write in about shower panels and cordless tools and ask questions about old wiring, air leaks, and gutter covers.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
Although there is not enough information in your post, I'm guessing that you will lose too much strength if you use that method.
Risers that go under the tread add tons of support. If the risers are simply screwed to the back of the treads, then that support is not there.
Can you afford to lose 3/8" of tread depth? If you can, then groove the riser 3/8" and rabbet the tread 3/8". Otherwise think about adding a third stringer.
Edited 9/21/2003 4:18:44 PM ET by Woodrow
There are three stringers, and stair width is 39".
what you are doing is the correct way.. the only thing that i would add would be a rabbet in the tread to receive the riser.. ( 1 1/16 tread.. 3/8 rabbet.. you can still use pocket screw and glue..
3 stringers is our standard also..
housed ( and rabbeted skirt / stringer ) with wedges and glue would also be an enhancement
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
what happened with your skim coat plaster ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mr Micro,
This is what I and I believe Mike is describing"One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions"
I don't suppose you could resave as a gif or jpg image to post here????.
Excellence is its own reward!
I decided not to do it, Mike. My rocker made me an offer I could not refuse.
So, with all the input, here is the scheme now. A dado is plowed into the bottom side of the tread, just slightly deeper than the projection the riser will make into it. The riser has a rebate on its bottom front edge, to receive the tread back edge. Shrinkage or pullaway of joints will not be seen as flaws, either when looking down at treads, or ahead at riser tops when ascending. As before, everything is glued and screwed.