Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 01, 1999 09:03pm | #1

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   Robert,

   Been doing it for years, works great! I hardly use 2Xs' any more for anything, I even use TJI's as wall studs. Keep it up, Quality never goes unpunished...ha ha.

2. 
   Drew_Kirk | Oct 03, 1999 08:53am | #2

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   Last I looked, the smallest TJI's were 9.25". Do you use those for studs, or is there now a smaller I-beam avaiable? Also, what do you use for connection to top and bottom plates with TJI studs, and surely you must block every 4' of height. In short, I am intrigued and would appreciate some details. Thanks.

3. 
   Guest_ | Oct 04, 1999 03:29pm | #3

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   When i saw an article in FHB about using tji's for studs I asked our local rep about it. He checked and told me that they were not rated for it. this would be a below code wall. Did the engineers at macmillian approve this?

   Rick Tuk

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 04, 1999 05:18pm | #4

   *The walls compression strength was calculated from the cross sectional area of the flanges only without contrubution from the web. Since the flanges are microlam, they have far fewer defects than conventional lumber and better strength. Top and bottom plates are 2x3 or 2x4s tied togeather with OSB ripped to the width of the TJI's. I tie the Plates to the TJIs with 12D nails or 3" deck screws depending upon the inspectors preference. Toe nailing usually needs predrilling to prevent splitting. I also use metal connectors where needed.Since I only build superinsulation, I use 9.5" or 11 7/8" with cellulose insulation. I do not use any blocking unless required by the local codes. Cellulose is a very effective fire-block, better than fiberglass and a 2X. I will use flat 2x6 blocking for cabinet support etc.

4. 
   Mikesc | Oct 06, 1999 06:18am | #5

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   I am interested in how you build stairs from micro-lam. I'm an inexperienced "contractor". What thickness do you use for the stringers and treads? Do you make the stringers with complete notches so the tread sits on top or is it dadoed into the sides? Do most builders then carpet the exposed stringer or cover it with finished wood? In a stairway with walls on both sides; how much space do you leave between the wall and stringer? I'm getting pre-built stairs now with exposed stringers. They want to leave a 3/4" gap on each side to slip the drywall in and to keep the stairs from squeaking. Is this a good practice or are they telling me this to justify why the last set of stairs I got were too narrow? I would appreciate any comments, thank you.

5. 
   Guest_ | Oct 06, 1999 07:20pm | #6

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   I only use it for notched stringers. 1 3/4" thickness.

6. 
   John_Matz | Oct 06, 1999 10:13pm | #7

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   I am replacing existing pine/carpeted treads on a staircase
   with new oak treads that I will be making myself. The
   existing treads fit into a shallow (1/2"?) dado in the
   skirtboards (or stringboards) on both sides of the stairs.

   I will have to remove the skirtboard in order to remove the
   treads. When I install the new treads, they probably won't
   work with the old skirtboards.

   Can I just put in new skirtboards that do not have dados,
   and then cut the treads to fit perfectly between the
   skirtboards, rather than into dados? I do not expect much
   fluctuation in size of the treads through the seasons (they
   are going to be 3/8" oak flooring laminated to 3/4" plywood,
   for reasons hard to explain in this message), so I would
   like to just butt the ends of the treads right up against
   the skirtboards.

   Does this sound like it can work??

   Thanks in advance for the suggestions/opinions.

7. 
   Guest_ | Oct 06, 1999 10:49pm | #8

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   John - It will work, but it won't look as good.

   Say you get the new treads within 1/100 of an inch of butting perfectly against the skirts. There will still be a vertical joint between them. And since you are looking down on that joint, you will always see the space, or at least the line in a good fit. .

   If you house the tread "in" the skirts, that same 1/100" line will be less visible because people are going to be looking down at it from above, and instead on seeing the line, they will see the top of the wood tread as it goes into the mortise.

   It is the same principle as coping a joint so that you see the long part of the joint as you enter the room. - jb

8. 
   Robert_R._Kane | Oct 15, 1999 05:02am | #9

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   As A Design build builder, I have the good fortune of being able to draw my own home plans which enables me to knowingly allow for space wher I need it and I always allow myself 4 ft. in width at my stair openings. I use 11 7/8" x 1 3/4" micro lams or 16" x 1 3/4" micro lams for stairs with floor to ceiling heighths over 120". These stairways ussualy run into basements, although some are from first floor to second. Ussually my stairs from first to second are either custom timber or custom log as I build high end log homes. My micro lam stairs are most often carpeted over and I allow 2" between wall frame and stair stringer side. This allows for rock and plaster or tounge and groove material and also room for A stair skirt, the extra space allows for insertion of the skirt without friction and the space is easily covered by thecarpet.I install 2x treads glued and screwed ( ussually 2x12 ripped down to whatever.) The finished product costs more but my customers hire me for reasons other than cost.

9. 
   Guest_ | Oct 15, 1999 08:36am | #10

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   I could see microlam as an excellent choice for stair stringers. However dont ever use timberstrand! it stinks! the screws strip out way to easy, nails and staples dont hold worth a damn. all you'll have is the glue! and if you think that it's not that important to glue the risers, your wrong!

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 16, 1999 06:36am | #11

   *Robert,I also use micro lams for stringers also. I lay out one stringer (the pattern)and make the bottom cuts and the top cut. I don't cut any of the risers or treads in between. Then I check it in the stair hole. I then tack 3 or 4 micros together with my template on top. I use a Skill sidewinder that has about a 10 or 11" blade(my only sidewinder). The saw will cut 2 stringers at once and mark the third. Instead of making the cuts 3 or 4 times I make them all twice and there is less room for error. The base of the saw needs to be perfectly square.

10. 
    cybergreg | Oct 20, 1999 08:06pm | #12

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    As I make the step from contract carpenter to spec homebuilding, long standing quality clearly becomes an issue. Particularly when you are building in the place you grew up in as I am. It's funny that you mentioned using microlamms for stringers because I was thinking the same thing. Not just for long term quality purposes but for ecological purposes as well. I'm not sure about the rest of you guys, but I live in the SW corner of British Columbia, no stranger to old growth (read quality) lumber and it's getting harder and harder to come by, and so it should. As a matter of principle I intend to use engineered and composite materials where ever it is practical. Getting to stairs, microlamms, one inch plywood for tread, half inch for risers, glue and screws is the only way to go.

    Yours, cybergreg

11. 
    Robert_R._Kane | Oct 20, 1999 08:06pm | #13

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    I've been building stairways for many years and for the past 8 or so have been cutting my stringers out of micro lam. I thought more people than me were on to this but A visit to my current project by A "contractor" freind ( i'm A builder) made me realize I may be one of the few. He acted as though he never saw such A thing. Is anybody else doing this? If not, start. You'll spend a little more on materials but will have rock solid stairways. If you have A closed stairway I recomend using 16" stock, wow. When instaling your finish treads, ( carpeted tread variety ) glue and use coarse thread 3" screws to secure and you'll feel what solid feels like. Though the 12" micro lam in itself produces A solid stair. If you have ever ( and I know you have ) cracked the tit off of A D.F. stringer, you'll apreciate the micro lam.