Stair tread construction & wood movement
dperfe
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I’m building a stair case and would like to get some advice on the construction of the actual tread (stair step). I’ve noticed that trim is attached length wise across the end grain creating a breadboard effect. How do they control for wood movement, or is the actual tread made from plywood or a particleboard core?. Is it acceptable to not attach trim the endgrain if constructing a solid hardwood tread, and instead simply router the endgrain to how you like?
Thanks,
David P.
Replies
yes , simply rout the end. Or just glue the miter on the nosing and just nails for "tail"..the nails will give enough to not cause a split.
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That's called a mitred return end. eityher way is fine, if it fits your sense of tast, the routered end is easiest.
I glue at the mitre and use a biscuit or two further back for alignment with a finish nail or two The glue at the mitre holds that joint tight, like Shere says, and if there is wood movement, the nails have a bit of give. But remember to seal the bottom side of these treads. Well sealed, they really won't move much.
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Thanks. I just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly. You're saying to: Glue the mitered joints. Don't glue the molding to the end grain but instead nail it. Biscuit and glue molding along the grain?
The glued miter joint is strong enough to negate what little wood movement may occur, after sealing both sides of tread, no cracking over time? I've seen a couple examples of raised panel doors, one was about 10' wide, that were glued incorrectly and thus split in the middle and move about 3/32" between seasons.
Thanks again
DP
I read it as just biscuits for alignment along the end of the tread, no glue. Glue only at the miter. The nails flex enough to take up the seasonal movement.
Red circle indicates glue area.
Dunc is right that biscuits ( violet ovals) are for alignment only.
blue lines indicative of nails.
Ten foot raised panels? Surely you meant ten inch.
They are splitting because they are glued at both edges. Your bullnosed edge of this tread will not be fixed in place, only the rear.
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"They are splitting because they are glued at both edges."
Maybe, probably, but not necessarily.....from my experience.
I've seen numerous old frame and panel doors in which the raised panels have split and those panels weren't glued. I'm sure you have, too. Frequently these are on exterior doors....but not always.
The panels can swell enough in high humidity that the raised edges wedge themselves so tight in the dado that when attempting to shrink back again, the panel splits instead.
That's part of the art of fitting a raised panel. Gotta keep track of current moisture content and anticipated moisture content to know what width of panel is apt to work over the long haul. If ya fit 'em too tight in the winter (so to speak), troubles may occur in the future.
And of course, type of finish can play an important role here, but I usually fit them as though there won't be any finish at all. Maximum movement. Safer that way.
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Ooops, yes i did mean 10 inches. Thank you for the ellaborate drawing.
-David P.