Stair tread depth poll…Need stair building expert feedback!!
Hi all!
Would like to get feedback from all the stair building experts out there. With the help of my excellent GC, I am finishing our basement space to make an open playroom/TV living space. The house was build in 1926 and the old stairs were removed. However, due to the location on the stairs, the rise/run on the new stairs needed to vary from “normal” measurements. To fit the stairs, we ended up with a finished rise of 8.25″ and a finished tread depth of 8.5″. I am comfortable with the rise, but obviously, the run is not optimal and necessitates going down the stairs with your feet at an angle, or going down duckfooted. I am not going to consider removing the treads, since they are glued in place and it would be $$$ to change them.
Here are the construction details…there are 9 steps. The riser material that we used is 3/4″ and is installed sitting on top of the treads and is only tacked in to each of 3 stringers (no glue). It was my idea to pull the 3/4″ risers out and then put 3/4″ plywood blocking inset between the stringers (left of center and right of center) so that the face of the blocking is flush with the rise on the stringers. Then glue & tack 1/4″ plywood to the blocking, effectively adding 1/2″ of depth to each tread. This would provide a tread depth of 9″, rather than 8.5″. The tread nose overhang would increase from the current shallow 1/4″ overhang to 3/4″ overhang.
Here is the debate… is it worth the extra work to gain the 1/2″? YAY or NAY?
Thanks all!
Replies
small-d
It would not be worth the effort-
because-you gain nothing (going down).
The overhangs edge of lip in relation to steps below it will remain the same. You'd need to recut the stringers in such a manner as to gain the 1/2" right from the start.
Thanks for the reply Calvin! I understand what you are saying about the nose-to-nose length, but I still believe that you gain 1/2" of tread room for the heel of the foot to drop onto (since you don't walk down stairs heel first, but rather you land the ball of your foot near the nose of the tread).
ok then..........
have at it.
If it feels better, then I'd guess it worth it.
I just wanted to make sure you knew that there'd be no real change unless you're ankle is dbl. jointed.
Long ago we lived in a compact 2 story farmhouse. Going up-no problem
Coming down-either go sideways or find yourself coming down waaaaay too fast.
Figures, they didn't drink upstairs.
Instead of carrying the laundry basket down-pitch it to the bottom-hope it landed right side up, then toss the clothes.
Narrow too.
So you say the current nose is 1/4" and you're proposing to increase it to 3/4"?
3/4" is about right -- you get some toe room and heel room, and any more would create a trip hazard going up. Can't say much about the technique to accomplish it, though.
(I find it a bit odd that 1/4" was used for the nosing size to begin with.)
(I also wonder if this would meet code in your area.)