FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Stairway Baluster spacing

| Posted in General Discussion on September 22, 2001 01:26am

*
I’m building a house and am at the trimming out stage. The stairs have a traditional “over the top” railing system and I would really like to stay with two balusters per tread. The run is 9-7/8″ which makes the O.C. spacing 4-15/16″. The balusters are 1-1/4″ base traditional spindles that taper off toward the top. My rail height is 34″.
Bottom Line: Within the top ~6″ this scheme exceeds the 4″ max opening requirement.
Any ideas/suggestions?

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Mike_Maines_ | Sep 06, 2001 11:46pm | #1

    *
    Al, go in to your inspector's office, bring a drawing of what you want to do, and ask if they'll let it slide. If they say yes, try to get the same inspector to do the final inspection on your house. If they say no, you're s.o.l. You don't want someone's kid to get their head stuck in there anyway.

    Maybe change your baluster style?

    1. piffin_ | Sep 07, 2001 12:24am | #2

      *This involves more than just the building dept. We don't have an enforced building code in my neck of the woods, but the insurance companies speak loudly on this. It would be a shame to built it with the blesings of the code inspector and then find that you can't buy homeowners insurance.

      1. Stan_Foster | Sep 07, 2001 01:58am | #3

        *Al: If your balusters have 5/8 inch tops like most, that means that you have 4 5/16 inch spacing between the pins. The only way it would fly here, is to put three balusters per tread. Also, we cannot have a run less than 10 inches which would further spread the gap.

        1. Bucksnort_Billy | Sep 07, 2001 02:28am | #4

          *A1, 'round NC, the only spacing measurement the inspector checks is at the bottom of the baluster, over 4" there and you're fixing something...I've never had to do a tread with 3 balusters...Steppin' out, BB

          1. Jim_Walters | Sep 08, 2001 03:34pm | #5

            *A1, 'round NC, the only spacing measurement the inspector checks is at the bottom of the baluster, over 4" there and you're fixing something...I've never had to do a tread with 3 balusters... Me neither...two per tread. I think it would look goofy with any more than that.

          2. Stan_Foster | Sep 08, 2001 11:30pm | #6

            *This one has three per tread. If it had two, I would have had to tear it all out.

          3. George_Roberts | Sep 09, 2001 02:14am | #7

            *Al ---You have a code. Comply.Stan ---Nice detail.

          4. Stan_Foster | Sep 09, 2001 03:32am | #8

            *George: ThanksI have to admit that I didnt like going to three per tread myself. However, on the simpler styles, it looks ok. Heres some pictures of what I call pool que balusters. This was the first stairs I had to use three per tread. I still use two per tread occasionally when the stairway is under less strict code requirements and the client also insists.

          5. Stan_Foster | Sep 09, 2001 03:33am | #9

            *closer view

          6. Stan_Foster | Sep 09, 2001 04:01am | #10

            *One more note on the four inch rule. In Champaign Il, and many other larger cities in my area, they come out to the site with a four inch diameter ball. If that ball can find its way through any part of the balustrade, it will not pass. It will only be a matter of time where this is mandatory everywhere.

          7. Bucksnort_Billy | Sep 09, 2001 04:28am | #11

            *Hey Stan, howcome you'd have to tear it out? Those treads don't look that wide...well, at least not from here...

          8. Stan_Foster | Sep 09, 2001 05:12am | #12

            *Bucksnort: If you have a tread with say a ten inch run, two balusters per tread are 5.0 inches on center. With say 3/4 inch taper tops, that puts the gap there at 4.25 inches. I have no problem with that at all personally, but the inspectors do. A 4 inch ball will go through that spacing. If you used those same balusters and used them on a tread with a 9.50 inch run, then the center to center distance is 4.75 inches. This leaves exactly 4.0 inches between them. However, now the run is under the 10 inch minimum. I will still use two per tread if it is in a more relaxed code area and the customer insists.

          9. Al_Fielder | Sep 10, 2001 12:41pm | #13

            *Up here in Rockford , Il (actually Belvidere), the code is that the tread width is 10" min but the run is not specified. It's kind of weird, I know. The inspectors here have the 4" ball and I've talked to one contractor who had to rip out his handrail because it exceeded the 4" rule by .25" (all the way down to the tread). I have decided to be safe rather than sorry so I went with 3 per tread. It looks OK so far (I ran out of balusters so I am waiting for the next delivery).Thanks everyone for the input.

          10. Qtrmeg_ | Sep 11, 2001 12:47am | #14

            *Stan, how did you decide on the newel placement for this one? Btw, those are the same balusters I have in my house, I called them "easy to finish", ;-).Btw, btw, nice work, but you must be tired of hearing that by now.

          11. Joseph_Fusco | Sep 11, 2001 12:50am | #15

            *AL,

            You should have asked the "inspector" now that you've complied with the first ridiculous rule, what happens when the same small child who's head is 4" is tumbling down those same stairs because the "handrail" you used is to wide for him/her to grab?Or, when that same child is tumbling down those stairs because the "handrail" is to "high" for him/her to reach in the first place.I'm sure his answer will be that the reason for the 4" rule is so when that same child is PLAYING on those stairs(???) that he/she can't stick his/her head through and get stuck???????? Or, when that child is falling down those stairs (because they where playing or couldn't reach the handrail or the handrail was to wide for them to grab) his/her head can't get stuck on the way down.Yep, you just got to love this stuff. . . . . . . .

            View Image "The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

          12. Qtrmeg_ | Sep 11, 2001 01:34am | #16

            *Stan, how did you decide on the newel placement for this one? Btw, those are the same balusters I have in my house, I called them "easy to finish", ;-).Btw, btw, nice work, but you must be tired of hearing that by now.

          13. Stan_Foster | Sep 11, 2001 02:14am | #17

            *Qtrmeg: Thanks for the compliment. The newel placement on the pool que baluster stairs was a sticky point between myself and the architect. She kept insisting that the newel be in the middle of the tread, instead of where it should have been, on the front riser. As you can see in the picture, she won out. I usually figure the centerline of the newel at the riser face. A 3.5 inch newel would then have .5 inch reveal on the nosing.

          14. Qtrmeg_ | Sep 11, 2001 02:50am | #18

            *Stan, how did you decide on the newel placement for this one? Btw, those are the same balusters I have in my house, I called them "easy to finish", ;-).Btw, btw, nice work, but you must be tired of hearing that by now.

          15. Qtrmeg_ | Sep 11, 2001 02:56am | #19

            *It was a different look Stan, I'm sure she knew what she was doing, a vision thing. You managed to balance the whole thing well, it works.

          16. Stan_Foster | Sep 11, 2001 03:00am | #20

            *Qtrmeg: I was considering how much harder it was to install those newels through the middle of the tread. That was time consuming. It does look different.

          17. Bucksnort_Billy | Sep 11, 2001 11:13pm | #21

            *Stan, Like, I said, we have the 4" sphere rule, but it only seems to apply to the bottom of the pickets. I've never seen an inspector with an actual ball to measure them.NC is going to the International Code, so we may, indeed, have to start spacing from the narrowest point. Sure looks cluttered, to me, with three balusters, but I'm not fighting with inspectors, their job is to enforce the codes, not make 'em. Besides, the majority of our inspectors here are exceptionally helpful, if you don't piss them off...

          18. Stan_Foster | Sep 11, 2001 11:56pm | #22

            *Bucksnort: I agree on the cluttered look unless they are simple and smaller like those pool que ones I posted. What surprises me is that there is nothing said about having stairs with finishes on them so slick that a fly can't land without skidding. After I busted a tailbone one time from super slick steps, I have thought that they would soon require a carpet runner on steps. I believe slick steps causes more falls that runs being a little short. I had a neighbor whose husband polished his steps so slick his wife almost broke her hip.

          19. piffin_ | Sep 14, 2001 01:47am | #23

            *Sometimes three can look OK.I worked up the overall design here and had a shipbuilder craftsman do the work. They are used to a lot of curves. The ballusters are custom turned and fluted to match the previous ones from 1896 which show on the run going upstairs.6-3/8" rise over 10-1/4" run if I remember right.

          20. piffin_ | Sep 14, 2001 01:49am | #24

            *OOPs! here it be -

          21. Bucksnort_Billy | Sep 22, 2001 01:26am | #25

            *Piffin, that does look nice, and Stan, I finished my own stairs in poly. Almost put myself through the window at the landing. Old and slower, and a bunch more careful...

  2. Al_Fielder | Sep 22, 2001 01:26am | #26

    *
    I'm building a house and am at the trimming out stage. The stairs have a traditional "over the top" railing system and I would really like to stay with two balusters per tread. The run is 9-7/8" which makes the O.C. spacing 4-15/16". The balusters are 1-1/4" base traditional spindles that taper off toward the top. My rail height is 34".
    Bottom Line: Within the top ~6" this scheme exceeds the 4" max opening requirement.
    Any ideas/suggestions?

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details

These defensive details give homes a better chances of surviving wildfires.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • From Victorian to Mid-Century Modern: How Unico Fits Any Older Home
  • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
  • Vintage Sash Windows Get an Energy-Efficient Upgrade
  • Design and Build a Pergola

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data