Replies

1. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:33am | #1

   *
   more

1. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:34am | #2

   *another view

1. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:35am | #3

   *mortise detail

1. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:35am | #4

   *some more

1. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:36am | #5

   *still more

2. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:38am | #6

   *winder detail --- I have never had to trim my skirtboards, its more work, but it looks much cleaner

3. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:40am | #7

   *just a few more

4. 
   Pro-Dek | Nov 14, 2001 01:42am | #8

   *Nice Job Stan- are you building these over another set of stairs? If so Why? Just wondering? as usualBob

5. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:43am | #9

   *I like to transition the inclined stringer to matching landing base in this manner

6. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:44am | #10

   *last one

7. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 01:47am | #11

   *Bob: Thanks. I had to set these today over a set of basement stairs. I had to get some temporary scaffolding over the stair hole. It tool 8 guys a couple of minutes to lift the top section with ten treads in it.

8. 
   piffin_ | Nov 14, 2001 05:46am | #12

   *Nice oak, great work and fitting. I see you have got all the curves out of your system yet though.;>)

9. 
   Stan_Foster | Nov 14, 2001 06:30am | #13

   *Piffin: Thanks. I guess youre right. I still have the curved easings on the winders. I cant build anything straight.

10. 
    piffin_ | Nov 15, 2001 07:02am | #14

    *The curved mitre returns on the treads too

11. 
    Stan_Foster | Nov 15, 2001 02:25pm | #15

    *Piffin: I call those swoop miters for lack of better words. Those returns are also pocketscrewed on the underneath side.

12. 
    Stan_Foster | Nov 15, 2001 02:35pm | #16

    *I had a cute helper on this job. She keeps me from making CATastrophic mistakes.

13. 
    Armin_ | Nov 15, 2001 05:15pm | #17

    *Stan, I noticed your winder comes to a point at the newel. Is this a non code inspected staircase or does the code in your area allow winders to have zero tread at the newel?

14. 
    Pro-Dek | Nov 15, 2001 10:04pm | #18

    *Stan- That cat is just thanking you for the new "scratching post". hahaBob

15. 
    Stan_Foster | Nov 16, 2001 01:59am | #19

    *Armin: This is out in the country with no code at all. Normally I have to have a minimum of 6 inches of run at the small end of a winder, plus the 1.25 inch nosing. This would not pass code if it were in the city, but it is comfortable because if you measure in 15 inches from the handrail, the walking line is 12-13 inches of run. What I don't understand is how the inspectors get so anal about the 4 inch ball rule, rail height, etc. but nothing is ever said about stairs finished so slick a fly can't land on them, and then allow them to remain that way without a carpet runner. I broke my tailbone a few years ago slipping on one of my stairs that didnt have a carpet runner on it. I was on my back before I knew it, and yet I was aware of the slickness and it still happened.

16. 
    Stan_Foster | Jan 18, 2002 01:12am | #20

    *Heres this basic white oak stairway finished. The newels are solid whit oak made in my shop.

17. 
    Don_Papenburg | Jan 18, 2002 01:41am | #21

    *Damn , Stan I don't see a bent stick anywhere ! I guess getting them eyes fixed did the trick. Looks good for straight stairs. Now post a picture of the curved part that you snuk in someplace. Don

18. 
    Stan_Foster | Jan 18, 2002 02:51am | #22

    *Don: There is actually one in there. I did not catch it. It was slight.

19. 
    Stan_Foster | Jan 18, 2002 03:05pm | #23

    *Don: there is a swooped transition on the winder section.Can anybody spot the stupid pin nail that I stupidly shot through the handrail in this picture. Geeeeeeeeeeeesssssssshhhhhhhhhh

20. 
    Don_Papenburg | Jan 19, 2002 08:20am | #24

    *Stan , I knew that you had a curve in there some place. Boy I hate those arrent nails . Don

21. 
    bake_ | Jan 19, 2002 05:36pm | #25

    *Stan; Lovely stairs, great timing! You gave me some good ideas on how I should go about constructing my own, hope the won't be any copyright infringment. ;>)Cheers bake

22. 
    Stan_Foster | Jan 19, 2002 06:21pm | #26

    *bake; Thanks

23. 
    allen_schell | Jan 19, 2002 07:06pm | #27

    *Stan,How do you notch large newels? Yesterday I cut some 6" newells for the 1st tread, seemed like a real chore, was wishing I had a 10" hand held saw.Allen

24. 
    Stan_Foster | Jan 19, 2002 11:45pm | #28

    *Allen: I notch my newels on the table saw as far as I can cut, then cross cut the top cut, and chisel out what the saw doesn't cut.If its just an l-shaped notch, I leave an inch of newel full width and dadoe it out on the saw. The extra inch keeps the post from rocking when it goes over the 3/4 inch miter guide slot.

25. 
    Armin_ | Jan 25, 2002 07:00am | #29

    *Allen, I have a Stanfield 3 axis router that I use for notching and mortising. I bought it at the Atlanta tool show 10 years ago. It works like a dream for fitting stair parts unfortunately I think the company went out of business.

26. 
    bake_ | Jan 31, 2002 05:04pm | #30

    *Stan, I am wondering how long it took you to make this stairway? Just looking for a rough estimate of the time you allow for them start to finish? Thanks bake

27. 
    Stan_Foster | Jan 31, 2002 09:15pm | #31

    *Bake: That stairway was basic except for the winder section, It took me about 2 1/2 weeks to build and fully install it.