Replies

1. 
   Mongo_ | Mar 25, 2001 07:26am | #1

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   Wayne,

   Ever use wall jacks?

   I'm not sure if they'll lift a 16' wall...it's pretty close to the max, I think, but it may be something you could look in to. I couldn't recommend some of the cobbled together methods that have been used in a pinch.

   Other than that, I've done large, long walls in sections, then locked them in with an overlapping cap plate. Not what you want to hear, though.

   Be carful. The only thing harder than raising large walls is watching one come back down.

1. 
   jim_at_great_white | Mar 25, 2001 02:55pm | #2

   *Plan one: if they aren't buillt yet. Do it in sixteen foot long sections with a crane. As mentioned above just overlap your cap,double,tippy top, curly or no that other plate there. Using a crane may seem pricey. I bet you can get the walls up in an hour or two and alot safer than wall jacks.Definitely safer than pushing by hand with an army of guys/gals. We once dropped a wall, about eighteen feet square, and it landed on a guys pelvis. Cracked in three places, held together by bolts and screws now. Cranes are infinetly cheaper than that.pplan two: if they are built already. Hire a larger crane.jim

1. 
   Joseph_Fusco | Mar 25, 2001 03:55pm | #3

   *Wayne,

   No reason to make a difficult job harder. . .I would just frame the wall in 8 to 10ft sections and stand them up. 3 to 4 guys should be able to handle them. Good luck.

   View Image © 1999-2001"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

1. 
   Mike_Willms | Mar 25, 2001 05:54pm | #4

   *Cranes are nice, but not always a possibility for everything we'd like. 10-14ft long by 14-16ft tall sections of wall aren't too bad to lift by hand. Wall jacks I have won't lift 16ft, I'd need a 24ft 2x4. And I sure wouldn't trust one that long. Get the walls up around 3-4ft off the floor (set saw-horses underneath). Nail on a few long braces (make sure they're reachable once the walls stood), start lifting. Once it's up 8ft or so get some guys to start pushing with the braces, and get out from under it. Better control of the wall with braces, and if something goes wrong, you've got a larger safety zone. Make sure you've got kickers on the outside (obviously), and make sure the bottom won't blow in on you either (nail blocks to the floor, or toenail through the inside of the plate).

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Mar 25, 2001 06:06pm | #5

   *.. i forget the exact ht. you can lift with a proctor set-up , but 12' rings a bell..measure 12' from the shoe... slip a 2x4 strong back under the wall , secure with a couple ot temp. simpson clips and hoist the wall..you can use 4 jacks and do it all at once...or 2 jacks and 32' sections...leave out the plywood where the jacks will stick thru the walls...when the walls are vertical.. the jacks will be sticking out thru the walls at the 12' ht.the jacks will also restrain the wall so it can't go over.. provided of course , you have a good hinge detail at the shoe...have fun...two guys, 4 jacks... you're done....b but hey,whadda i no ?

2. 
   Tom_Moller | Mar 25, 2001 07:30pm | #6

   *If you've ever watched a flagpole being installed... they don't pick up the end. They lift near the middle. For a 16 ft wall, your lift or jack really only needs to reach about 9 or 10 ft.

2. 
   Wayne_Todd | Mar 25, 2001 07:30pm | #7

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   I could use some advice on standing 16 foot tall walls. The building is 44 feet wide and 64 feet long, 2x6 studs on 24 in. ctrs. and sheathed with 7/16 wafer board. We are out in the sticks of central Montana, so don't have access to a lot of large construction equipment. Any help would be appreciated.