Replies

1. 
   goodgolly | Dec 10, 2006 06:32am | #1

   Could be a leak in the hartford(sp?) loop, but most likely a cracked boiler. What does the site glas hsow? Sometime if it is overfilled, the crack can be on top.

   Also, lower the boiler water level through the draincock in the back. Does the level in the glass drop? Does the auto water kick on?

1. 
   rick12 | Dec 10, 2006 05:19pm | #2

   The site glass shows the level of water. When the water drops to a certain level the boiler automatically shuts off and I have to add more water to start it up again. There is no automatic feed. There are 3 areas in the basement where the pipes appear to rest on my thick stone foundation before they go up into my house. I'm thinking that maybe where the pipes contact the foundation I got a rust hole. Difficult to examine the bottom of the pipes in those locations.

2. 
   Shacko | Dec 10, 2006 06:21pm | #3

   I have to agree with the other post, there should not be any steam comming out of the chimney. I think that you have a crack. You can check you low water cut-off by running the boiler and starting to drain it and see if the low water cut-off shuts it down, if not its defective, Sorry.

   ...................................
   "If all else fails, read the directions"

1. 
   BungalowJeff | Dec 11, 2006 04:32pm | #4

   Try your luck over at http://www.heatinghelp.com They know everything about one-pipe steam systems....that's not a mistake, it's rustic

1. 
   rick12 | Dec 11, 2006 06:18pm | #5

   Thanks Jeff. Found a lot of good info there.

1. 
   BigBill | Dec 11, 2006 06:31pm | #6

   Heed Bungalowjeff.  Go to heating help.com.  You will learn more about steam heat there than you will anywhere else.

3. 
   Stray | Dec 11, 2006 08:00pm | #7

   I had a steam boiler that acted just like you describe.   Loads of steam out the chimney.  In  my case, the sections weren't cracked, but had rusted through (boiler steam therefore going up the chimney).

   Do you have a warrantee on the boiler?  I think my Utica steam boiler came with a 5yr.  Maybe you should get the local rep involved if so, before you have work done on it.

   I would never have a boiler installed that didn't have an automatic water feeder on it.  In fact, for a little $ I have one on the new boiler that has a digital readout that tells me how MUCH feed water has been through it, so I can monitor whether there seems to be a problem.

   Ithaca, NY  "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"

1. 
   rick12 | Dec 12, 2006 05:09pm | #8

   Plumber came last night. First thing he does is fill the boiler to the top with water to see if it leaks. It does. The boiler has only burned 2200 gal of oil since it was installed 3 yrs ago. The leak must be near the top cause it doesn't leak when the water is reduced to normal levels. Boiler came with 10 yr warranty. I wonder if this is going to be a repair or replacement? Maybe there's some gasket in there that needs tightening or replacement?

1. 
   reinvent | Dec 13, 2006 06:45pm | #9

   Well at least you got your chimney cleaned.;-)

2. 
   Stray | Dec 13, 2006 06:49pm | #10

   Best of luck with the warranty.  Never a fun process.  Please post back with what the manufacturer says.Ithaca, NY  "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"

2. 
   rick12 | Dec 13, 2006 09:14pm | #11

   How old was your boiler when it "rusted through" and did the warranty cover you? Do you remember where on the boiler (top,bottom, side) the break appeared? Did the rust damage result from external water coming down the chimney and landing on the boiler or from internal water? Thanks.

1. 
   Stray | Dec 14, 2006 12:31am | #12

   I didn't buy the boiler, it was in the rental house when I bought it.  Tags on the boiler indicated that it was only about 6 yrs old though.

   When I got there, the sytem was in sad need of maintenance.  It had steam traps that were original (1950's !!!) was poorly vented (two-pipe steam, not one-pipe like yours), leaking radiators, etc...  It generally wasn't maintained and therefor they had the system up to 10 PSI steam pressure just to get heat to all apartments.  All this caused an immense ammount of feed water to constantly be introduced into the boiler.  

   Feed water introduces minerals and oxygen, which can do a numer on cast iron over time.  If let go, it'll eat through the sections.   My boiler wasn't cracked....it was rotted away!

   I knew I didn't have a prayer of getting $ from the mfr because of this lack of prior maintenance.

   I got a new steam boiler, changed all traps, added venting (with help from Heatinghelp.com guys) and now the system purrrs along at less than one lb of steam pressure, and no feed water....

   Steam is high maintenance though.  Flushing the system, blowing down scum, skimming surface water, operating low water cuttoffs, etc...  this must be done regularly throughout the heating system.  NOT just once/yr service call.

   If you were ever of a mind to change to Hot Water heat...now is an opportune time to do it before you buy a boiler.  There's an initial cost for retrofit piping, but in the long run you may be happier.

   Ithaca, NY  "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"

   Edited 12/13/2006 4:33 pm ET by Stray

1. 
   goodgolly | Dec 16, 2006 07:30am | #13

   Well, I would not suggest a switch to hot water. Esp. if you have a one pipe system.Chat with "Steamhead Frank(?)" over at heating help for his learned (and biased) opion on steam.I have had a home with h.w. and steam, and prefer steam. I flush my system once or twice a season, meaning I open the side valve, add water until the top layer come out the valve, then drain the boiler thru the rear valve

1. 
   kate | Dec 17, 2006 12:13am | #14

   I, too, have 1 pipe steam, & like it fine.  Can you explain your flushing system in a little more detail!

   By 'side valve' do you mean the water feed?  Is the 'top valve' the TPR?

2. 
   goodgolly | Dec 17, 2006 06:59pm | #15

   The pipe that leaves the boiler with steam to feed the radiators comes out hortizonatly from the boiler, about halve way up the side, then hits a "tee" On top of the tee, pipe goes up to the rads. On the other hortizontal end of the tee is a clean out plug. So I remove that plug, then manually raise the water by pressing the automatic fill bypass button. I should note that the boiler is not on at this point.So the water raises in the boiler, then when full it come out of the tee. Not gushing, but a gentle stream. I norammly fill a buckets worth.Then I replace clean out, shut off water to boiler (which is still off) attach agarden hose to a drain cock on the lower rear of boiler. (I run the hose to my sump pump)Then I drain the whole boiler, then fill to between the line on the site glass, then turn water on, then boiler.When the system is making steam, then I will open the relief valve on top of the boiler to test.I have a Columbia boiler about six years old. Supposely then have the heaviest iron in the boiler.

3. 
   kate | Dec 17, 2006 10:05pm | #16

   Thanks - that's nice & clear.  I've been flushing by opening the drain valve & running water through for about 1/2 hr., but I still see a lot of rusty scale in the sight glass.  My boiler was new in 1999, but we kept the old rads & piping,  (circa 1900).

   Also have run some kind of boiler cleaner recommended by my excellent plumber.  I can't remember what it's called, but it's a yellow powder inserted by removing the TPR.

   I have manual fill, auto low water shutoff.  I rather enjoy looking after my boiler - I grew up in a big, drafty house heated by a couple of wood stoves, & have also burned wood as an adult - LOVE my boiler!

4. 
   goodgolly | Dec 18, 2006 02:26am | #17

   I asked my guy about the dirty site glass, and he showed me how to clean it.Then I decided I did not careI always feel a little bit like an old train engineer when I fool with the boilerI think if I had not grown up in the south I would have went into boilers as a living ( i was only introduced to them 8 years ago)

5. 
   Stray | Dec 18, 2006 03:57pm | #18

   I agree that steam is a great heat, but just wanted to let the original poster know that if they don't feel they can, or want to, maintain the system regularly....that steam may not be for them.  And if that applies to them...now is the time to chane systems.

   For my money, there's nothin' like standing over a big radiator in the winter to warm your bones up.Ithaca, NY  "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"

6. 
   goodgolly | Dec 18, 2006 06:23pm | #19

   Understood,But any system requires a fair amount of yearly maintence. Even forced hot air requires filters and duct cleaning. But I dont even call that a heating system. I mean really, you body is 98,8 degrees, and hot air blowing across it is supposed to make it feel warmer?Go radiant or go south.The problem with steam heat is to find a competent service guy if you do not want to maintain it yourself. Not too many of those left alive.I have always wanted to attach a steam generator my steam heat system.Best,
   Steve

7. 
   kate | Dec 19, 2006 01:31am | #20

   I am fortunate to have a great family of plumbers right down the street.  I had a thread around Thanksgiving on being thankful for plumbers.

   I certainly agree that radiant is the way to go!  Would have gone for hot water if I were starting fresh, but cash was tight when we bought the house, & the radiators were in place.