I recently took on a very small remodel job. There is only one hitch. I have to install a steel door, (wood jamb), into the new room through an existing metal wall. It is one of those steel post buildings with the ribs in the metal. I think I’ve figured out the best way to cut the opening, although I’m open to suggestions. My problem is finding the best way to frame in the door opening with the 7″ between the outside of the metal to the outside of new wood framing. The jamb is 6 9/16″ wide. Is the metal strong enough to screw a ripped 2×8 to, attach the 2×8 to the framing on the other side and use this as a frame. There is a steel beam above the door height, so header strength is not an issue. Thank you for any input.
-Robert Walters
Friday Harbor, WA
Replies
Are there any horizontal girts (ala Morton style pole buildings)? Or is the steel siding structural, as in load bearing in addition to providing shear strength?
What gauge steel siding are you working with?
I've done similar with installing windows through steel siding, but then I could frame up with flat 2X4s for something to screw the 2X8 buck to.
There is a horizontal girt which actually made the door have to be custom, (More expensive). My thought was to bolt a piece of 2x firring underneath and have something to toenail the ripped trimmers to. The steel siding also has "ribs" for structural use. The ribas are approx. 2 3/4" thick and the steel about 3/16". So in your experience is screwing through the metal sheeting into the ripped trimmer sufficient? Also any ideas on exterior trim for the door. I plan on caulking the hell out of it no matter what I use. Thank you for your input.
steel about 3/16". So in your experience is screwing through the metal sheeting into the ripped trimmer sufficient?
Holy cow, 3/16 " thick. Yes I would say it's plenty strong.
What will you use for head flashing? Has to be some sort of "J" channel...probably available from the blg manufacturer. The way Morton trims these out, and the way I did the windows, is once you've cut the steel and installed your nailers, you slip the channel UNDER the steel so that it protects the top of your wooden brick moulding. You have to make a slit extending just past the door trim at each end of the top so the channel hangs over a bit on each side. Hard to explain but fairly straight forward.
Once the channel is under the steel, screw through to the header or nailer.
I would use the backside of structural steel studs to form an "H" frame around your cut openning. This will also act as a sub-base to fasten your wood jamb to.
Gabe