We’re furring out our basement walls using steel studs. I’ve never used them, nor has my FIL (who works construction).
So far so good, easy to cut and mount in track and screw in. We’re liking them.
What we don’t know is if there is any structural/code reason to also screw the back-side of the stud to the back side of the track (the part against the wall). This is obviously trickier than the front side, so if we don’t have to, we’re not going to.
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Replies
It does help to stiffen them up but I seen where they don't screw them at all.
You just stick them in close to where you want them. When you hang the drywall you move them where you want and screw them with the drywall. If you screw the drywall to the bottom plate and to the studs they aren't going anywhere.
It's just faster and they don't have to be so concerned about layout. You move the stud on 4 ' center half on the dry wall board you are putting up and screw it. Can't mess up the layout that way.
It does stiffen them up a bit when you put the screw in the back. But only close to the track/bottom plate.
I'm not advocting not screwing the studs to the track. Just saying I've seen it. I used to do comercial work where tin can framing was the norm. It's pretty amazing how fast you can build out an interior space.
Edited 11/26/2007 10:02 pm ET by popawheelie
I always screw off both sides. When it is the perimeter wall (against the foundation), I just screw the back from the front. Screw through the stud and then into the track and just let the point of the screw stick out the back next to my insulation - I use ridgid foam insulation against the block, behind the stud wall.
yea, though I've found that to be tricky to do. Will be picking up a longer phillips bit for the drill tomorrow to see if that makes it easier. Using the standard bit and drilling at an angle just proved futile.Never thought about the 'leave them loose' option and let the sheetrocker screw them in. Interesting idea.I suppose, in hindsight, the easiest option would have been to just get long screws...screw the front and back with one screw.
Screwing both sides with one screw sounds good, but it won't work. Get a long bit instead.
Screw the back also because when you screw the drywall in the sheet the stud will twist and you'll have a tough time screwing the rock. Get a long bit..it's makes it easy and screw it from the front.
I personally can't stand steel studs. Got persuaded to use them not long ago by a client in a basement remodel. Reminded me why I like wood.
The darn things will move and twist on you when you are working with 'em and they just don't have the ridigity - stiffness - of a wood stud. As far as letting the rockers fasten the studs with their rock, that's just lazy. Put the screws in and be done with it. How long does it take? Besides, you might be the guy doing the rock. :-)
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Screw both sides. In a situation like furring out a concrete wall (in which sheetrock will be put on one side only) the stud should be braced every four feet also with a piece of scrap stud fastened to stud and to concrete, or a piece of strapping screwed to each stud on the side not recieving sheetrock. This is required for lateral bracing of non load bearing partitions.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Another way to stiffen up the studs (and hold the foam panels against the basement walls in case they ever come loose from a flood event such as from a clogged gutter) is to use shots of spray foam between the steel studs and foam insulation. It sounds strange but it takes all of two minutes to do a wall and it's surprising how well it works. Don't use too much or it may bow the studs. These are 20 gauge 1 5/8"studs, so they are stiff. I'm not sure I would do it with flimsy 24 gauge studs.
You could squirt a little PL Premium on the back side of the steel stud if code in your area doesn't require the screw on the back...
Billy
Edited 11/26/2007 9:23 pm ET by Billy
I'm not sure code around here comprehends steel studs. They still seem to be using code circa 1978 or thereabouts.I was planning on doing the foam-behind-the-stud trick. And yea, it doesn't take that much effort to screw the backsides, so I might as well.If code requires the stud-into-concrete brace, I'll obviously do it, but if they don't call me on it, I think I'll pass as that requires opening up all the insulation again.
You can also buy a tool that puts a crimp/notch in the stud/track connection. It works well for that back edge, if you have about 1" or more behind the track. I believe mine is made by Malco.
Studs twisting, as you hang board, is more a function of technique than a fault of the light gauge studs. Make sure all of your studs are facing the same direction. That is, all the open sides of the U shape are going the same way. When you hang the board be sure to hang it from the closed side toward the open side of the stud. When you get to the break stud you now have the open edge facing out. This allows you to hold the stud with your off hand as you shoot screws on the closed side of the stud. When the next sheet goes up, the previous sheet has stiffen the break stud open side, and it will not roll out from under the screws.
Another tip if you are running any wiring in the metal stud wall is to be sure keep all the holes, top to bottom, in line. Use the plastic snap in gromets if pulling type nm wire. For top plate holes, drill them to match the gromet size. Protect the wire and use the correct connections at all boxes.
Dave
Excellent advice. Thanks!I'm not sheetrocking myself this time, but I'm not certain my sheetrocker has done metal studs either. Will definitely mention these to them.
Scratch your plates out for layout as normal, but on the backside of the track where you have the stud marked out you snip the track a 1/2" down.
When you slide your stud into the track you bend those 1/2" flanges on each side of the stud and screw the front. No screw needed for the back because the track is bent on each side of the stud.
Matt- Woods favorite carpenter.