Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 13, 2012 05:02pm | #1

   If this is a typical angled bay window, then the roof plane meets the wall two ways - that is a compound angle. So in many respects, this is a head wall flashing as much as it is a side wall flashing.

   For a purist, it is best to work the steps into the shingles.

   But for your situation, I might be tempted to just make three long headwall piecs with hem on bottom to lay on top of the shingles if it can be done neatly. If not, I would remove the shingles on the two side hips to do step flashing and work it in appropriately

2. 
   calvin | Jan 13, 2012 05:58pm | #2

   If there's room and it makes sense...........

   I'd add steps-they'll be longer than store bought.

   Counterflash over that and then side it.

   Once the siding is up it won't be easy to do anything but goop the heck out of it.

   Don't forget to seal the cuts of the siding and to leave it up off the shingles the recommended amount-2" for hardi?

1. 
   Autod1dact | Jan 13, 2012 06:28pm | #3

   I think the thing that had me so confused was that the baby tins obviously didn't line up nicely with the shingles.  Of course not - because, like you said, they need to be longer.  

   Thanks!

   I guess I'll make up my own baby tins.  They'll be covered by another piece of metal I had bent up (so I could space the Hardie off the roof), so no one will see them (i.e. they can be ugly).

3. 
   Autod1dact | Jan 19, 2012 02:24pm | #6

   It's not working out

   I'm confused.  I bought some 4x4 L from Home Depot and have been bending it by hand to the correct angle to make my custom baby tins. . .

   But no matter what I do it seems that I either end up with metal showing, or the possibility of shedding water over nail heads in the courses below.  Is there something that I'm missing?  

   I made a quick doodle with Sketchup, without any attention paid to dimensions.

   Edit: just ignore the drawing.  It was made in haste and was sloppy.  I have posted a photo.

   
1. 
   Autod1dact | Jan 19, 2012 01:31pm | #4

   In case you were wondering

   I do have a kickout flashing at the end of this.  I did a little aluminum origami, then took a block of wood and a hammer to smooth it out some to make a solid kickout without any pinholes.  It's not the most professional detail, but it looks fine from the sidewalk.   

   Edit: and I'm posting the actual sketchup file, just in case some helpful soul will add to my doodle.

   
1. 
   calvin | Jan 19, 2012 01:38pm | #5

   auto

   What I meant was, you need longer tin-so you can let it run down more towards the edge of the shingle-instead of leaving it square at the bottom, back cut it parallel to the edge of the shingle.  Your sketch has me confused in that the first tin is under the bottom shingle (but looks like it's on top), the next tin up will be under the next course and so on.............

1. 
   Autod1dact | Jan 19, 2012 02:51pm | #7

   I made the drawing too quickly

   Here's what I mean.  Should I just tar over those nail heads and carry on?  

   
1. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 19, 2012 09:43pm | #8

   auto....for a steep roof you need  bigger step flash

   also..hardie  wants you to  clear  the roof be 2"...which  is  ugly and unneccessary

   we  make  our flashings out of colored coil stock to  compliment  the siding

   you  should  see NO  flashing on the pitch of the roof

   we  keep the  hardie up  3/4 above the  roof shingles

   if  there is a flat spot at the top, then you  need a  break flash to go  over the  level, non-pitched shingles

2. 
   Autod1dact | Jan 20, 2012 09:37am | #9

   Ah ha!

   Thanks Mike!

   Yes, I see it now.  I need not only a longer step, but a wider one too!  That way it would extend all the way down to the nail line, when I make my horizontal cut.  

   In my case, this would end up being huge; those baby tins would be full-grown!  ;-) I'm seeing a lot of wasted material, and I'm running out of patience anyway.

   I'm just going to put a black angle with a hem over everything, and sealant underneath.  Yesterday, my wife said "It just has to be there," which is our slogan for when I'm making a mountain out of a molehill.  

   With respect to spacing Hardie off the roof: I'm running some metal L under it because I'm doing a 3/4" rain-screen, and (with the roof so steep) one could easily look up under the siding.  Ugly.  I was going to space the Hardie 3/4" or 1" off this L and paint the bright white to match the Hardie.  There might be some snow build-up on the L angle now and then, but with the cut edge of the Hardie sealed I'm not too worried about it.

3. 
   calvin | Jan 20, 2012 05:24pm | #10

   Remember to not caulk that metal "L"

   To the siding, and go over the top of  it with your housewrap.  If any water gets behind the siding and on top of the housewrap, you want it to have a way out and over your flashing.

4. 
   calvin | Jan 20, 2012 08:35pm | #11

   you've got one of those situations that probably wouldn't.......

   leak if it's life depended on it.

   But, I've seen damage occur when even the simplest operations weren't done.   And that's just plain wrong.  Long slow leak that doesn't show up for 7 yrs................

   from lack of just a couple hours work.

   Like the kickout flashing.

   Tell your wife you love her.