Our garage door has started sticking when opening. It opens about 4″ then stops. I’ve sprayed the rollers with WD-40 but that doesn’t help. I’m thinking something is just slightly out of line, but I don’t know what to look for.
The doors are Clopay 8′ X 7′ simple sheet metal. No insulation. 1/2 h.p. Genie opener.
Any ideas, or instructions as to what the likely source of problems is?
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Replies
WD-40 isn't really thick enough to be good lubrication on garage door rollers. Something thicker is better. I use engine oil in a squirt can.
Try detaching the door from the opener and moving it by hand. It should hold itself in just about any position if the springs are adjusted right.
If not, they may need some adjustment to get it back in balance.
Hey Boss, I was having a similar problem that the poster is having now. Seemed that it would happen only on the warmest days during the summer. I have yet to figure out the cause, and its only the wife's side of the garage, which get's used the most.
Something you suggested that seemed have been neglected in my investigation: spring counter-weighting. I totally forgot that the spring tensioning system is designed to counter-weight the weigh of the door--otherwise the motor in the garage door opener would have to work harder.
I guess its time to be prepared for this coming warm season. BTW, have you used anything thicker (axle grease)? Or is that not typically recommended because it could pickup dirt?
I've never used grease for this. I figure the oil will do a better job of penetrating the little openings and getting into the bearings on the rollers.
Ever notice that not one man in a beer commercial has a beer belly?
Boss is correct. The lubricant should be in the roller bearings, not on the track or rollers. Lubricant on the track will load up with dirt and make things worse.
DG/Builder
What I have heard is that they should stay in possition at the 1/2 way point. Above then open and below close when released.Yes feel the operation of the door with the opener disconnected.If there is no real binding/sticking them check the door opener.One is the photo-cell but I don't think that it will affect opening, just closing. Make sure that the connections are good and that the mouts are solid and that they are acturally aim so that they move when the door moves. Also watch for things that can move in front of the cells. I have heard of people having prooblem with spider webs, direct sun light, and in my case it rope for manually closing the door.Also the opener has a open force and closing force adjustment. Problem set just a hair low. After increasing it watch the door opener chain/screw and trolley and see that it is not catching anywhere.
I agree about wd40 not being thick enough, but that is what the garage door person said to use when we had springs replaced (right after we bought the house). I was thinking white lithium myself.I'll wipe down the tracks, try some oil (if I can find it - I don't know how but my multipurpose oil always seems to vanish) and make sure it isn't hitting anything.I hadn't realized about the adjustments on the opener. I'll have to find the instructions.Thanks!
My dad had a similar problem with his door--but mainly in winter. I noticed a lot of clicking noises and so on and found that many of the bolts holding things together and holding hinges on between panels were loose. I tightened them and that helped some, but didn't cure the problem. I finally measured the distance between the rails in several places and found that one had moved out a couple inches at the top end when the board it was attached to warped. I pulled the board back with a piece of pipe strap. Also made sure the level part of the track was level, the plumb part plumb, and that both tracks were in same plane. Lastly, made sure door wasn't rubbing the jambs anywhere. It still sticks once in a while, but not like before. He said he'd adjust the "upforce," but hasn't gotten around to it yet. Sounds like something I may be doing when the weather warms up!
DO NOT USE OIL, GREASE OR WD40, to lubricate overhead doors. All atract moisture and dirt (WD40 is just diesel fuel and water ) ( used to use it till I knew better ) use a proper lubricant available from Overhead door supplier or a (silicone) lubricant that will displace moisture. make shure door is not binding and moves freely with operator disengaged. Lubricate springs ( if top wound) with proper lub. Clean all hardware if it has collected dust, grease, ect. with a good solvent. make shure both sides of cable or springs whatever is the case, are adjusted the same. If all hardware is OK and door goes up and down with little effort, then set up the sensativity on the operator. Just be careful as springs and doors can get you hurt real bad. I have worked with an overhead door company, installed / serviced many doors and am a journeyman carpenter, so I know what I speak about.
IF IT WAS EASY, EVERYONE COULD DO IT!
Your settings on the electric opener may be just a little too sensitive. It's possible that the door was close to sticking when it was set up, but not enough to require the opener to reverse it. It may have change just a little and the now the opener is reversing the door when it's really not needed.
Like the other poster said, disconnect it and see how easy it moves. If it moves freely by hand, then you might want to check the settings on the back of the opener.
Edited 3/2/2006 1:05 pm by JMadson
You might want to check if the face of the door is binding on anything on the back of the door opening. Also, run a rag down the tracks to clear out any old dirt and gunk.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I didn't notice that you had a Genie ( same a Python Lift-Master) operator at first, these openers have been known to give a lot of problems. Circuit boards ect. check out the age of your an check your warranty on this unit. The limit stopas may also need adustmant as the are located on rails of thes operators.
IF IT WAS EASY, EVERYONE COULD DO IT!
"I didn't notice that you had a Genie ( same a Python Lift-Master)"No, Genie and Lift-master are completely separate companies.Genie is a division of Overhead door and has these brands."We carry a full line of Genie, Genie Intellicode (Alliance, AlliancePro, BlueMax, Lift-A-Door, OverHead Door, ProMax, Hercules, GeniePro, GMI, Norelco, Stealth, Python, Medallion, CodeDodger, Legacy, Phantom were ALL brands manufactured by Overhead Door, those parts are interchangeable with Genie parts) gate opener and garage door openers, parts and accessories."Lift-Master is made by Chamberlain which has these brands;"We carry a full line of Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain (Sears Craftsman, Access Master, Garage Master, Master Mechanic, Formula 1, Security+, Link, Billion Code, True Value, True Guard, Raynor - All these are manufactured by the Chamberlain group and are fully interchangeable) gate operator and garage door opener parts and accessories."From http://www.aaaremotes.com/And while WD-40 is a light distilate, some what similar to kersone it does not have water mixed into it. In fact it is a WATER DISPERSMMENT.
And while WD-40 is a light distilate, some what similar to kersone it does not have water mixed into it. In fact it is a WATER DISPERSMMENT.
Right; I always thought the "WD" stood for "Water Displacement" (you say dispersment (dispersant), but I think we mean the same thing). I've used it successfully many times on automobile wires and distributor to drive the moisture out when the car wouldn't start or run well. At any rate, I think BossHog was right to say don't lube the actual track (rail) or wheels with anything, just lube the bearings on the wheels (or whatever the correct terminolgy is for them). (I must admit I have lubed the track with special garage door lube--suppose I could look at the can and read the directions!)