Been looking for a straight edge to use with my circular saws cutting at least up to 8′, 12′ would be better. Disassembly good for 4′ and easier transport; 12′ would have to go on ladder rack so as not to clutter up van.
This looks good, but as usual it’s the price.
http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Panel_Saws/Saw_Guide_Systems/sgs-1.htm
What do you use?
Edited 11/27/2008 12:48 am ET by habilis
Replies
I use Festool saw and track, but if the EZ is too expensive for your taste, then Festool is not gonna be an option, period.
Bill
I have a 5/8" by 4" by 12' aluminum extrusion I bought at my tile supply house. They have aluminum straight edges in lengths from 2 feet to 12 feet. I assume they are for screeding mortar beds.
I keep an 8 footer and a 12 footer handy for drawing cut lines on granite slabs and when I find myself cutting sheet goods I grab one of the straight edges and clamp it down with a pair of Pony spring clamps. It is a bit slower to layout than a homemade shooting board but it just as accurate for me. It isn't as foolproof as festool or the ez thing but it is cheap and it does a multitude of tasks.
I use these straight edges a lot to check kitchen cabinet installs for flatness as I template the countertops.
Sometimes a chalkline or a dryline won't work for something and it is great to have a Looong straight edge.
I don't think I paid more than thirty bucks for the twelve footer.
I drive an old compact toyota pickup most of the time and it does fine on the lumber rack.
Karl
For cutting, mine are old 6 ft sections of sliding door Al extrusions, basically free.
Cut or make bolt together couplings (check with laser) to suit length.
Also have a couple of 20 ft steel bars for extreme cases.
Had to laugh one time - have a 6 ft tempered steel Starret scale, told a co-worker once I needed to grab my good straight edge, it is kept in an old wooden case. When I brought it in, Co-worker didn't think much of it as a straight edge as he thought the box WAS the straight edge.
I've got a cylinder head straight edge, it's just a steel rod about 5/8" dia. x 24" long. Supposed to be good to a millionth of an inch. Works well for checking guitar frets.
Have the EZ for breaking down plywood sheets, I'm not crazy about it. Most times I just joint a hunk of 2x6 or whatever is laying around, and use that. At least around my house, there is no need for dead nuts straight, nuthing else is.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Slight hijack, but along the lines of long items. Have you done anything with your sanding belts yet?
Still have the ones I got from FE stacked on a shelf, have had no time to make a big sander yet.
No, the guy that I was getting them for never produced the sander that he was supposed to haul down from PA. So, I still have them here.
Might have to make them into something useful for me..I haven't a clue what..or re-sell them maybe.?????Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
So simple. Make big shooting board.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/fwnpdf/011143070.pdf
20 gauge steel stud, up to 20 feet, can be cut to any size
"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow
Edited 11/27/2008 7:42 am ET by dedhed6b
Edited 11/27/2008 7:44 am ET by dedhed6b
Edited 11/27/2008 7:45 am ET by dedhed6b
I am very low tech in this department.
What I use the most are just pieces of 2" x 1/8" aluminum bar stock clamped in place. Have 3', 4' and 8'.
Also have two shooting boards 6' and 8'.
Jim
I tried to buy that guide from a local tool store a few years back. The saleman tried to talk me out of it. Nothing against the guide I think he just didnt want to bother with ordering it.
Save yourself alot of money. I went to Lowes and bought a piece of 8' aluminum stock. Its the same dimension as a 5' straight edge scale in the tool crib. It works just fine and if something happens to it i'm only out about $10.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Most of the time I am using a router for any straigt cuts I have to make now. I use pieces of corian counter top material. I have pieces that are 12", 24", 48", 8' and 12' all are 3" to 4" wide. They have all been accross a long bed jointer and have worked well for me.
As a side note I have also made various size assembly squares from scrap pieces of corian. I rough cut them to size and then pattern rout them using machinest squares for the pattern.
Trust your neighbors, but brand your calves.
TCW Specialists in Custom Remodeling.
Dont you have problems with the corain bowing on you? I tried using a piece of MDF as a stright edge once, I got a pretty good arc cut. The MDF was about 4" wide.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
No, it stays straight and true for me. I wouldn't want to use anything less than 3" wide for the longer ones as you might get some bowing or flexing out them.Trust your neighbors, but brand your calves.
TCW Specialists in Custom Remodeling.
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10833
i have one and it's reasonably affordable and easy transport, set up is not to bad has a jig sled for your router also.
I think I do what Karl is talking about... a piece of aluminum angle about 5/8" X 3. It's fairly rigid, light, and isn't tall enough to stop the saw from lowering to it's full depth. Cheap too.
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Looks like the other posters have covered about all of the bases.
I think I've tried just about all of them. It really depends on what you're looking for in the guide. If you want something for finished cuts that are absolutely straight in sheet goods or long boards that you are using for finished flooring, trim, etc., I think you are best off spending the dollars for Festool or EZ -- I just broke down & bought the Festool after years of trying to find cheaper alternatives.
I've tried the guides the Hartville, Lee Valley, Hirsch & one or two others. Still have them. The weak point is the joining of the sections. They all suffer from problems there. I've also got an aluminum angle down in the shop that I use on occasion as a guide for the circular saw or an extended fence on the table saw. That's okay for rougher cuts, but I still get some flex from it.
I've never used the EZ, but there are a lot of supporters here for that system. The Festool will save you a lot of time by eliminating the need for clamping in 90-98% of the cases. It has a none slip backing & is flexible enough to follow some variations in the boards or sheet goods.
I use a simple piece of aluminum angle. I cut a piece of 24 foot angle into 3 pieces and clamb them together when I need the full 24 feet. I made sure the cuts were square and then I take a block and a couple of clamps and instant alignment.. I got a piece tall enough that the saw or wood can pass underneath the clambs without hitting anything (4"x4")
I bought mine a decade ago at a scrap aluminum place and checked that it was straight with a string. I think I paid $80.00 a decade ago but who cares, it's been invaluable to me since I regularly work with 18 + feet long wood.
if you want loe tech / low cost, make yourself some shooter boards out of 1/4"ply... we have 4' & 8'we also have 3 alum. 8' straight edges... one is a masons straight edge... square box 3/4 x4 x96one is alum extrusion... 1 x 3 angle x 1/8 thickone is a 2" x 96 straight edgewe also have 2 EZ guides and are getting our 3d.... i've linked them as long as 16' ... nice and straight and true90% of the time we use our EZ without the clampswe have an 8 1/4 setup, a 7 1/4 setup and we have a 16" setup commingMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore