I was wondering if anyone had any helpful tips for straightening exterior walls? Here is the problem! I have 25 of the metal screw type wall straightening braces, but I can not attach them to the floor because it is a concrete slab with radiant heat! There is one interior partition wall that runs the width of the building (32′). The wall height is roughly 10’6”. On the outside of this building is mostly ledge, so I have not many options for the outside of the building for bracing. Any suggestions???? Thanks!
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Punt.
run some 16' 2x stock from the interior center partition perpindicular to the outside plate...
you can secure both ends with some plywood scabs
then set your braces on the 2x.. you can easily PUSH with your braces.. if you want to PULL it will attempt to lift your 2x..
you may have to run diagonals back to the center partition to stop the uplift
Good thinking Mike. That's pretty much what we do when we want to use the wall-jacks on a garage... poured or not. Geez... one more reason why I like working over full basements :)
Edited 7/24/2006 8:52 pm ET by dieselpig
yeah... it 's the garages that taught me that one tooMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
To add to Mike's comment you can do the same thing without an interior partition by scabbing long 2x's together until they cover the distance between the outside walls. This works even when the walls are block walls at the bottom. As Mike points out, it works a lot better if you have to push out.
It's hard to beat a collection of small come-alongs to pull the walls in to compliment the braces pushing out.
For light duty pulling such as this the models without the extra pulley are much easier to use.
When attaching to the wall, it's hard to beat 1" tubular webbing like that sold to rock climbers. It's rated at 4,000 lbs and lies flat around a top plate so sheathing can be applied over it. If already sheathed, a simple sawzall cut just under the top plate will allow the webbing to be snaked through.
One of the strongest knots for webbing: http://www.student.virginia.edu/~brmrg/knots/water.html
That's an interesting angle Trout. It's one worth pondering...
blue
off topic
Trout,
The web site you linked to interested me. You a member of an ASRC chapter? I can't do the field work any more, but I've been associated with DOGS-East around 25 yrs. Was active from 85 through 99. Now limited to doing dispatching. Just wondering if we happened to have met in the outback at some time.
Ed
So far, all the suggestions are good. You can pick and choose as you see fit.
My only other thought was to build those walls with the straightest top plates that you can find. Also, DON'T CUT THE TOP PLATES OUT FOR THE INTERIOR PARTITION laps. I say this because I know that leaving the two doubled tops plates intact for the length of the walls significantly strengthens the walls and makes it significantly easier to straighten!
My next suggestion works only if there will be a roof on the walls and it has a closed soffit: build your overhang on the wall before you raise it. The overhang will act like a box beam and if you build your overhang straight and anchor it securely to the wall when it is laying flat on the ground, it will also contribute significantly to keeping the wall straight!
I have one more idea but I need to know what you mean about ledges. Are these ledges completely around the entire perimeter of the house, or just one side? What are the ledges made of..rock or dirt?
blue
The ledge is on one eve side and one gable side! On the other eve side is a three bay garage, an entry door and a monster of a window (I can't remember the R.O. off the top of my head). On the other gable the grade of the land has a significant slope away from the building!
miles
block wall straigtening
where can i buy braces like this? I checked menards and lowe's and nobody knows what I'm talking about (not unusual unfortuneately)
thanks