I use the bulletin board at Chief Architect from time to time and there was something that came up not too long ago that I’m puzzled about. Apparently several of the folks who do framing in the northeastern part of the country use “strapping” or 1x furring strips perpendicular to ceiling joists prior to rocking and I’m unsure as to why. Anybody here familiar with this technique and as to what the advantages might be? I can’t see any from where I sit and I see a lot of downside. No big thing as I have no interest in adopting this style of framing, I’m just curious.
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We do strap all ceilings quite beneficial from my pov. Stapping provides sctructural stability to gable walls, makes interior partitions go up faster as you don't need to add blocking for nailers. Also makes electricians life easier. Why not strap?
There are a lot of advantages, and no disadvantages that I know of.
Pros include the foillowing....
when you frame with trusses at 24" OC, you need 5/8" rock on the ceiliong, but strapping at 16"oc lets you drop that to 1/2"
When you use Thermax foam board to reduce thermal bridging, the strapping helps the electrician by providing a space and it gioves the required airspace for the radiant barrier to work.
strapping on the bottom of floor joists adds integrity to the floor system to reduce vibration and decrease deflection better than bridging or blocking does.
strapping a ceiling on first floor when there is a second floor reduces chances of floor vibrations telegraphing seams and nail popps.
strapping between levels like that reduces sound transfer because there is far less solids contact between surfaces to carry the sound waves
It is far easier for a sheet rock guy to hit strapping at 2-3/4" wide than it is to get his screw into a framing member at 1-1/2" wide.
and last but not least, remember that the origin of this method was to level out a ceiling plane when the framing was rough hewn timber or sometimes even log poles, so it is an ideal way in remodel situations to bring the old back to a true plane again with a few shims.
The ease of inserting partition walls was already mentioned.
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In our area it is unusual to see.
I'm mostly with you on all points but unclear on one of your's:
When you use Thermax foam board to reduce thermal bridging, the strapping helps the electrician by providing a space and it gioves the required airspace for the radiant barrier to work.
And one from Cape Framer that stated that strapping a ceiling strengthens a gable wall?
Care to give these a shot?
Edited 1/25/2009 2:19 pm ET by EricPaulson
That 3/4" space lets a sparky run wire to a ceiling fixture without penetrating the barrierThe space is necessary for foil to work as radiant barrier to ad effectiveness to insulation. With SR tight to a foil surface, it will not work as a radiant barrier.Not too sure on the gable wall except it it is balloon framed and you are using scissors t5russes for a modified cathedral ceiling.
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Thanks, hadn't thought of either one.
The truss issue makes perfect sense.
I always just wonder how U guys up there find any 1x that does anything aside from split when U screw thru it.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Which tickles the question that's been in the back of my mind...........
What do you (strappers that is) attach the strapping with?
And, do you just strap, or do you actually start checking and shimming a 15x20ft living room?
And I'm wondering how they handle exterior walls which run parallel to joists. Seems like you can't have the ends of the strapping hanging in joist bay.
If I understand your query.... all you need is a 2-by nailer scabbed onto the inside of that wall (whether it is an exterior or a partition wall). This nailer runs parallel and even with the ceiling joists.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
the ends butt against the top platethe parallel walls have a piece of furring parallel to them and alongsideMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
So the ends are toenailed, (never thought about the spelling of that)? 1x...? Or are they just loose or pressure fit? Does not compute, heh, heh!
they're loose on the ends... they aren't going anyplaceMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I see. That takes that edge of the sheetrock completely out of the picture, structurally speaking. Another reason that'll never be common practice in earthquake country.
depending on the situation at hand, and the layout, we often nail a ledger 2x4 to the wall to nail the ends of the strapping Kinda like...
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you had mentioned earlier that you weren't sure what I meant by strapping braces the gable end wall? Well your drawing shows it perfectly, without the strapping that would be one bouncy gable end.
That is what I surmised, but didn't want t o speak for what was in your mind.
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without the strapping that would be one bouncy gable end.
Without strapping, strongbacks hold the gable ends from moving.
Joe Carola
The more I think about it, I have to question why plasterers would want that. I mean, cracking is the biggest issue with that stuff. Maybe that's why they invented crown moulding, heh, heh.
we don't get cracks at wall / ceiling junctions... we get them the same place everyone else doesover openings... that's the only place i've ever seen a crackalso.... if you wan to tie the gable end ... you can put blocking on top of the plate and nail the butts to the blockingc'mon... man... they've been strapping ceilings here for 400 yearsMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Was Andy Cliffords house strapped? I didn't ask him.
good question.... i wonder if that area/ time was strapping.... i'd think that the original was strapped ( furred )... wether he replaced in kid would be a good questionMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Here shots from one built in 1800 showing strapping remnants.
most met Mr Sawzall
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Now in these circumstances the practice makes a lot of sense to me. Uneven timbers, long spans, old fashioned lathe and plaster, I can see it. Otherwise, it's beyond me why people still do it.
You're lucky Joe hurt his middle finger.
No need to check. By the time you are ready to strap you know if you need to shim if you've been working with your eyes open.8d rings mostly, but sometimes screws when you have to shim. Another trick is to tack it up with 6d brights, then drive shims as needed and tight nail with the rings.
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furring... by tradition... (2 ) 6d common... or (1) 8dmost of the time... just adding the new transverse layer will reduce the error by half, so no real need to shim... but if if something is way out... the furring can be shimedMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
easy, we sell you the culls.
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"That 3/4" space lets a sparky run wire to a ceiling fixture without penetrating the barrier"Is sparky running that in metal conduit? I wouldn't want wires that close to the drywall...what if someone decided one day to cover the ceiling in paneling or t&g?I have never seen strapping used in Michigan. The only time I have ever seen it is on This Old House...but then I've seen them do a lot of weird/unnecessary things.DC
what if?That can make a Loooonng list.but they would be nailing the new surface to the strapping not to the SR and voids where wire runs
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"What if.That can make a Loooonng list."Some things are closer to the top of that list than others, though, and that's a "what if" that at least some code officials have already thought of:Our local BI won't let us run wiring in 2x4-furred walls, and hasn't for almost 20 years.And that's twice as much space as 1x.Not that I'm arguing either for or against what we call furring here. I always use it when I need to.AitchKay
In walls, we place the wiring same as always, where you still have the "What if" of somebody using too long of a siding nail or attaching braces to the outside with a 4" screw.
;)it is on ceilings that we are likely to use that space to run wires to the ceiling fixture to maintain the integrity if the VB there. My Electricians both tell me there is provision for this in the electrical code they are under here in Maine.
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This is from the 2005 NEC."300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage
Where subject to physical damage, conductors shall be protected.
...
(D) Cables and Raceways Parallel to Framing Members and Furring Strips In both
exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is
installed parallel to framing members, such as joists, rafters, or studs, or is installed
parallel to furring strips, the cable or raceway shall be installed and supported so that the
nearest outside surface of the cable or raceway is not less than 32 mm (1 1/ 4 in.) from the
nearest edge of the framing member or furring strips where nails or screws are likely to
penetrate. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be
protected from penetration by nails or screws by a steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent at
least 1.6 mm ( 1/ 16 in.) thick.Exception No. 1: Steel plates, sleeves, or the equivalent shall not be required to protect
rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical
metallic tubing.
Exception No. 2: For concealed work in finished buildings, or finished panels for
prefabricated buildings where such supporting is impracticable, it shall be permissible to
fish the cables between access points.
Exception No. 3: A listed and marked steel plate less than 1.6 mm ( 1/ 16 in.) thick that
provides equal or better protection against nail or screw penetration shall be permitted."Now the stuff below is the 2005 NEC Handbook. The handbook includes the code plus explanatory and background information. But it is not "code"."As shown in Exhibit 300.3, NM cables are positioned so as to equal or exceed the
minimum clear distance of 1 1/ 4 in. that is required between the furring strip (wood
strapping in this case) and the nearest edge of the NM cable as required by 300.4(D).The intent of 300.4(D) is to prevent mechanical damage to cables and raceways from
nails and screws. Revised for the 2005 Code, this section recognizes that cables and
raceways need the same level of physical protection at furring strips as they do at
framing members where nails and screws are likely to penetrate. The Code offers two
means of protection. The first method is to fasten the cable or raceway so that it is at
least 1 1/ 4 in. from the edge of the framing member, as illustrated in Exhibit 300.4.
This requirement generally applies to exposed and concealed work. The second
method permits the cable or raceway to be installed closer than 1 1/ 4 in. from the edge
of the framing member if physical protection, such as a steel plate, its equivalent, or a
sleeve, is provided. (A steel plate is illustrated in Exhibit 300.2.) New for the 2005
Code, Exception No. 3 to 300.4(D) permits the use of steel plates thinner than 1/ 16 in.
to protect cables and raceways, but only if the plates are specifically listed and marked.
As stated in Exception No. 1, the steel plate requirement does not apply to rigid metal
conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, intermediate metal conduit, or electrical metallic
tubing wiring methods because those methods provide physical protection for the
conductors. "I have to reboot to get a better picture.But this is fron the Handbook.While this is suppose to be improved, the same basic requirements where in the 99 NEC. I have not tried comparing it word for word to see what was changed..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Thanks.So it seems to me that it's a forseeable enough "what if?" that best practice would be to use conduit in those situations, even if your local BD doesn't demand it.AitchKay
no... we work under the same code
all it means is if you run wires between the furring and under a joist , you have to put a protector plate over the wire WHERE it ducks under the joist...
not a big deal... most of the time the elec. will still drill thru the joist
but occasionally.... like in a remodel... they can use the furring space and the protector platesMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
So using TJI joists, (which I use exclusively), pretty much eliminates any of the apparent advantages to this system? Essentially just making it more work at greater material cost?
Not at all. One common problem with TJIs is vibration. but making the floor system a sandwich with two separated diaphragms ( subfloor one side3 and strapping on the other) increases its stability measurably. Keep in mind that the strapping is run perpendicular to the joists.
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Its a regional thing. North eastern builders swear by it, elsewhere they don't seem to miss it. One minor point: Strapping makes your walls too short for two sheets of drywall.
No it doesn't. Framing the walls too short for strapping is what makes the walls too short to hang two sheets. When you are going to use strapping, you frame for it.
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Now that I think about it don't you have different length pre-cut studs? Ours are 92 1/2".
I think we can get two different sizes of precuts, but because all my stuff is on remo work and 9-10' ceilings, I never order precuts - I need to match what is there already for additions.
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Daughter has a house in southern MS. Its ceilings are strapped - but w/ 1X4's.DonDon Reinhard
The Glass Masterworks
"If it scratches, I etch it!"
I think it is done along the coast. I know inland they don't waste time or materials doing it!!!!!!!
The older ones here are done with rough cut 1x4.On my own place, I milled a lot of the timer into lumber and had more 1x6 than I knew what to do with. I strapped 1x6 for the metal roof and ripped 1x3 for the SR upstairs.
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Here we go again :-)
John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
Look up Mooney wall in search.
Edited 1/25/2009 3:22 pm by Mooney
No big thing as I have no interest in adopting this style of framing, I'm just curious.
It's a Regional thing. The people who do it have always done it and believe in it. That's fine. You have never done it where you are, I don't do it where I'm from. I did do it when I framed in Cape Cod, but left it there when I went back to NJ. Keep doing what you do, you obviously don't need it.
Well, to be honest, they wouldn't allow it here in California. It would decouple the floor joists from the sheetrock, which is considered a structural. We have nailing inspections for that here.
If noise is a problem resilient channel is used along with varying sized layers of sheet rock, (something about varying frequencies).
This makes sense to me only with regard to the original intent, which was mentioned, where you have uneven timbers, widely spaced. That I can understand. I can't really see a reason to continue the practice with engineered material. Framing here is almost exclusively 16 o.c. and we always use 5/8'' rock on account of it's a better job.
Also, TJI's have knockouts designed for electrical runs. Couldn't be much easier.
Another thing, it seems like splitting the 1x material has to be an issue when fastening sheetrock.
Funny, I've just never heard of it till someone brought it up over at Chieftalk. Interesting.
Maybe I'm having a brain fahrt, but I don't know what you mean by that one. Why would you want to split the strapping anyways?
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He's thinking the 1x will split easier than joists when the drywall is screwed on.
Well, I'm not sure what sort of 1x material you use but the 1x pine and fir we get around here is prone to splitting along the grain, especially when dry.
ah - the light cometh on in a darketh place!The strapping is usually spruce and rarely splits. I can see your Q coming from a fir background or a dry climate.
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C'mon Tonto, keep up with us here :~)
Hush, Kimosabee` or I'll feed you to the squaws.
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"Well, to be honest, they wouldn't allow it here in California. It would decouple the floor joists from the sheetrock, which is considered a structural. We have nailing inspections for that here.
If noise is a problem resilient channel is used along with varying sized layers of sheet rock, (something about varying frequencies). "
I'm not a builder, so please forgive a stupid question: I thought the purpose of RC was to decouple the sheetrock from the framing members to reduce noise transmission, so I don't understand how that would be more structurally acceptable than strapping?
First they put 5/8" rock on, get it inspected for nailing, then resilient channnel, then another layer of rock of a different thickness, (vibrates at a different frequency I believe). That's how it's decoupled yet structural integrity is maintained.
and they're trying to tell me that strapping is too much work!
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Well, to be honest you don't see a whole lot in the way of sound walls around here in single family homes. Maybe if a bedroom backs up to a bathroom with plumbing or something like that. Theaters and such are generally isolated below grade. (Don't need a whole lot of windows in those, heh, heh).
Thanks for the explanation. How is sheetrock considered structural? I've never thought of something that I can crumble in my hands, that disintegrates if a pipe leaks and that can easily crack if the wood it is nailed to moves, as having structural qualities. I've always thought of it as a fire retardant and a place to put paint. How does it contribute to the structure of the building?
Sheetrock definitely provides rigidity. I mean, just try racking a wall that has sheet rock on it as opposed to bare studs. I'm sure those engineers have calculated just how much and throw that into the overall calculations.
In today's LA Times (emphasis mine, and I couldn't help but include some screw related information too):
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Well, to be honest, they wouldn't allow it here in California. It would decouple the floor joists from the sheetrock, which is considered a structural. We have nailing inspections for that here.
"decouple"? Do you build guitars?
Sheetrock hasn't been allowed for structural in many years in the Bay Area and wouldn't ever be needed for shear on the bottom of a joist anyway. I wish they made structural sheetrock!
Nailing inspections for sheetrock have been done away with by the new California Code. Yea!
I use RC all the time to level ceilings and for soundproofing. Proper installation includes a draft stop top and bottom of walls. It's as easy as running your ceiling rock tight to the top plate and caulking the bottom to the floor or adding a sheetrock strip at the bottom plate.
Strapping? I have little use for it except under TJI's to stop the bounce.
OB
I'm in the bay area too. Been building here since 1985. Hawaii prior to that. Sheetrock definitely is part of the structural calculation. It doesn't replace shear panels but it counts. Hence the nailing inspection. The inspectors will tell you this as well as engineers.
Oh, the "decouple" reference must have come from this radiant heating system I'm installing at the moment, heh, heh.
I didn't read your post very thoroughly. Sheetrock nailing is no longer inspected? When did that come about? Interesting...
I'm in San Anselmo and the new CA code (adopted last June here) doesn't require drywall nailing inspections. Floating corners were impossible under the old code. The building inspector is pretty good at keeping us educated and brings hand-outs about railings and thresholds.
It does contain some accessibility language about 1/2" maximum threshold height. Try installing a patio door with that restriction.
OB
Edited 1/27/2009 11:20 pm ET by klhoush
That's interesting. I'm doing a project in Portola Valley right now so I guess I'll find out about that nailing inspection thing pretty quick.
The threshold thing, that's commercial, right? Otherwise, I'm going to have a bit of a problem with that.
San Francisco may not have adopted the new code and they have their own fire codes that take precedence. YMMV
I stopped working over there years ago after realizing I'd have to spend a lot of time trying to figure out their codes before bidding a project. Add the commute, theft, and the parking hassles.
OB
Using resilient channel is useful in many applications, not just when the joists are uneven. No only does resilient channel assist with sound dampening, it also absorbs flex, vibration or shifting in any of the joists. This can be a problem in all joist materials. Though I recognize the immediate benefits of using 1by for strapping, resilient channel adds to these benefits.
we always strap but use metal top hat instead of wood.
regards
mark
Look who's back in town!You in the states for our fine winter weather or still home?
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using a pre-cut stud of 92 5/8 plus a shoe and double plate will give you a wall of 97 1/4" ( some figure it as 97 1/8 .... which is the default wall in Chief Architect )when you strap the ceiling ( and only a hack wouldn't strap the ceiling ), it reduces the height to 96 1/2 " and 8 " sheet rock works fine without cuttingMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike,I certainly don't want to be called a hack, so I'm going to get busy strapping.How much does strapping the ceiling (and perhaps the walls, too) help to isolate the drywall from seasonal movement at the seams? A lot? Little? Inconsequential? Best,
Steve'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
View Image
every layer you add helps with the movement.... but the best thing is controlling the RH in the house
trying to maintain a constant range of 30 % to 50% RH will pretty much get rid of the shrinkage / expansion movement
at least that's this hack's version of BSMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I certainly don't want to be called a hack, so I'm going to get busy strapping.
You are not a hack at all. Mike is clueless if he's serious. There are thousands and thousands of houses that are not strapped that are worth millions of dollars Strapping is by CHOICE, it is not required ANYWHERE! You don't have to start something that is not necessary. If you feel like because Mike says people are hacks, go for it.
People who strap don't no any other way to frame, so some think it is the best and only way to frame. To say that people who don't strap are hacks, is insane and ignorant.
Joe Carola
Edited 1/26/2009 12:47 pm ET by Framer
oh, man... you're so easyMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
So baitable
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hey... i wonder if Riversong straps his ceilings ?Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
He's a fine strapping young lad!LOL
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We discussed this the last time he posted last year. I believe if I remember he thought it was a waste of wood.
I told you, only those on the coast use the strapping, he lives a ways inland!
"only those on the coast use the strapping, he lives a ways inland!"They strap in Ottawa and Montreal. We don't here and I can spit into the Pacific from most jobs I do.
east coast of the US
But based on his post in the tavern we still know that "Mike is clueless"..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
no, i'm not.. "Clewless " is clueless.... i'm still mikeMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
"So baitable"
And some people are definitely master baiters!
What? Oh sorry, I thought someone called my name.
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
I'll blame in on my fingers.
Joe Carola
i no how to strap a ceiling ... but i don't know how to draw smiley faces
happy new year joe !Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
i no how to strap a ceiling ... but i don't know how to draw smiley faces
happy new year joe !
Happy New Year, Mike! ..................;-)
Joe Carola
Joe
At the risk of starting a bun fight I'd have to disagree. Here, only the "B" grade builders don't strap. Even the plasterboard fixing manual tells us to strap for a better finish.
Level 4 Finish
At least 90% of measurements taken over any 1.8m span of the
substrate shall not deviate from the plane by more than 4mm. The
remaining 10% shall be within 5mm. A suitable levelling system
must be used to correct deviations falling outside these tolerances.
Use metal battens or furring channels on sliding clips to level
ceilings and maintain independent movement. Plasterboard is not
designed to provide lateral bracing. Supplementary bottom chord
bracing may also be required.
1.8m is about 6 foot and 4mm is just over 1/8th inch. Don't know about your lumber over there, but there is no way I can put a straight edge perpindicular to my truss bottom chords and achieve those tolerances.
In addition our experience is that strapping adds substantially to increasing the buildings rigidity in the lateral plane ( and we build to some of the most strict hurricane codes in the world.)
regards
Mark
and besides all that , you've got to do it standing on your head... WOW hey... so this means you're back on the grid ?Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Hi Mark! How ya been?John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
At the risk of starting a bun fight I'd have to disagree. Here, only the "B" grade builders don't strap. Even the plasterboard fixing manual tells us to strap for a better finish.
Mark,
All the A builders and contractors here don't strap building all types of homes and additions costing millions of dollars. I could care less what the plaster board manual says. The finishers here must be much better than where you are if you need strapping to get a better finish because our ceilings come out just as nice as yours do. I lived and framed in Cape Cod and strapped. Ceilings ain't no prettier there than in NJ.
We'll have to agree to disagree. You just don't need strapping period! Is it wrong to strap, no. Is it wrong not to strap, no! Do you need to strap, no! Millions of houses that don't get strapping and the ceilings are beautiful.
Joe Carola
Edited 1/26/2009 8:56 pm ET by Framer
joe.... in Oz.. the builders have a very strict licensing system... and very strict codes..all of their construction is tied from the foundation to the top of the roof raftersthere is no choice but to furr there... what mark was implying is that only someone in Oz who would put their license at risk would skirt the furring requirementconstruction is regional... leaving furring out of a custom house in Rhode Island would be looked at as cutting a corner...
i wonder if Pulte furrs ( straps ) their Rhode Island homes... i'll have to ask my lumber salesman.... it's not code.. but it sure is something that is expectedMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I didn't know he was from oz and strapping was code. He has no choice.
Joe Carola
( and only a hack wouldn't strap the ceiling )
That is the most ridiculous thing anyone has ever said here before.Hopefully is was a joke. If not, you are obviously out there.
Joe Carola
mark.... send me an email to the office ... we need some human contactMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I grew up in strapping country,,, moved away and started getting a lot of strange looks.
Anyway, when you strap, it reverses the direction of the wall board, and a lot of times you will then have no butt joints on a ceiling.
I was finishing a place last year, attic level, three doghouse dormers.
It wasn't originally meant to be finished, and the framers gave no regard to hanging wall board. A few bundles of strapping and two hours later, we were in business.
I have installed a lot of metal resiliant channel the last few years and that stuff really flattens out a ceiling. Very easy to work with.
I can't get decent KD 1x3 here in southern Ontario. The yard stocks 1x3x8' propellers. I keep a few bundles of 1x4x16' (purchased green) in my shed to feed my habit.
Harry