FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Strength of concrete

CloudHidden | Posted in General Discussion on October 30, 2002 11:19am

A typical slab will test at 2500 to 3000 psi in 28 days. Or so I’ve been told. Shotcrete walls have been tested at 4500+ psi in 14 days.

Does anyone know what’s the composition of the mix that causes this? Is it just more portland, or something further? And I woulda thought the pressure of spraying it also added to its density and strength, but the 4500 test was from right outta the hopper and so was unaffected by the way it’s placed.

What the most accurate explanation of the source(s) of strength differences between typical poured concrete and typical shotcrete? Define tems as you see fit, be/c I’m playing kinda loose with terms like “typical,” “strength,” etc.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. archyII | Oct 31, 2002 02:16am | #1

    Typically it is the ratio of Portland cement to water.  More Portland with less water is stronger concrete.  In the midwest we use 4000 psi (air entrained) for sidewalks and driveways to help with the freeze thaw environment.  Using superplasticizers (sp) you can get 10,000 psi concrete that will flow. 

    http://www.portcement.org/

  2. Piffin | Oct 31, 2002 02:43am | #2

    When I call the batch plant, I'll tell'em that I'm aiming for 2500# or 3500# or whatever with 3/4" stone or pea stone according to use. They'll add more portland for the stonger mix.

    You're right about fast and loose with variables. Temp on site and how much water I have the driver add will affect final strength.

    Gunnite, being from a sand mix instead of stone aggregate, will need even more portland to achieve high strength but I think it mixes drier so that adds to strength.

    .

    Excellence is its own reward!



    Edited 10/30/2002 7:51:49 PM ET by piffin

  3. Piffin | Oct 31, 2002 02:50am | #3

    Now, I got to thinking, the gunnite is not normally used for a slab and you do domes. What is the project you are dealing with, anyway?

    I'm wondering if you need compressive strength or tensile strength? The latter comes from correct steel placement.

    .

    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. User avater
      CloudHidden | Oct 31, 2002 03:12am | #4

      It came up in a dome question. We don't ask for a specific psi rating for the shotcrete, but it is always 4000+ just by definition, it seems. Has 3/4 or 3/8 stone in it. Concrete for compressive and steel for tensile. Need and use both. Better compressive strength, thinner the shell we can achieve. But I just got to wondering if anything other than the amount of cement contributed to the compressive strength of the end product.

      1. alias | Oct 31, 2002 03:25am | #5

        interesting thread....isnt true that concrete is constantly gains more p.s.i as time goes on. now i realize the curve over time is'nt as dramatic as lets say over the first fourteen days, with frequent wet downs and a poly cover. but with the wetting down and the change's in weather the p.s.i. very gradually goes up?? i'm sure with a lot of variable's optimum mix ratio, initial curing?? just a question i figure i'd throw out there thanks for any info..... bear

        1. FrankB89 | Oct 31, 2002 04:26am | #6

          When my Dad was working on the construction of some of the hydro-electric dams in Oregon in the late 40's, early 50's, he was told the curing of the concrete dam structure would continue for 30 years.  If that was the truth, we can assume they've been at full strength for the last 20 years. 

          1. RalphWicklund | Oct 31, 2002 05:45am | #7

            ARCHYII had the info you wanted. Compressive strength is inversely related to the water-cement ratio. Here are a few quotes from "Design and control of concrete mixtures", an engineering publication from the Portland Cement Association. ISBN 0-89312-087-1.

            1. The strength of the cement paste binder in concrete depends on the quality and quantity of the reacting components and on the degree to which the hydration reaction is completed. 2. Concrete becomes stronger with time as long as there is moisture available and a favorable temperature. 3. Hydration is the chemical reaction between the cement and water.

            Most of us just order what we need from the plant based on what the engineering requires or on past experience or "how we've always done it". Then, when the batch gets to the work site, somebody decides the concrete needs to flow better or faster and the mix gets totally screwed up by the addition of water. The 4,000 psi that was ordered, properly mixed and shipped is now toast.

            It would be interesting to see what the numbers are for Cloud's shotcrete after placement. Does the gun operator blow the mix by adding water because he thinks it would shoot better?

          2. brownbagg | Oct 31, 2002 05:51am | #8

            I took samples on a 300 yard pour last wed. today befeore coming home I broke the seven day sample.

            this is a 4000 mix

            1     5 in slump      4200psi

            2     6                  3900

            3     5.5                4367

            4     7                   3200

            5     9                   2700

            6     6                   3560

             concrete and water are the MAIN variable but there are many more, aggregate, time, temp, add mixture etc. But mainly water is what you can control

          3. User avater
            CloudHidden | Oct 31, 2002 06:00am | #9

            >It would be interesting to see what the numbers are for Cloud's shotcrete after placement. Does the gun operator blow the mix by adding water because he thinks it would shoot better?

            In shotcrete (versus gunnite), it's just the mix in the hopper and air pressure. Not possible to mix water at the nozzle.

          4. RalphWicklund | Oct 31, 2002 06:43am | #10

            Ok, your operator uses the wet process. Did you ever see him add water to the hopper?

            There is a dry process where a premixed blend of cement and damp aggregate is blown thru a hose with compressed air and at the nozzle water is added. That application I have not observed.

          5. User avater
            CloudHidden | Oct 31, 2002 06:42pm | #13

            Ralph,

            I've often seen a gallon and 5 gallons of water added. I've seen it in the truck so thick it won't flow down the chute. The shotcreting I've observed was with guys who'd done that for about 25 years each, and they had a good idea of what consistency was needed for their pump. I was just trying to watch and learn (and drag hoses and keep clumps out of the hydraulics and ...). The 4500 test sample was from the hopper of the pump, at which point there's no way to add further water.

            The dry process is gunnite. I recall a FHB article on a gunnite wall in SF, I think. From what I've been told, it requires a much more experienced operator, but that such an operator has much more control over the quality of the mix. The equipment is more expensive, too.

            Jim

  4. kennedy136 | Oct 31, 2002 06:47am | #11

    Cloud,

           The other posts were largely correct in stating that the water/cement ratio is the most important factor in design strength versus  actual achieved strength.  The best way to make sure you achieve the minimum strength required is toorder a mix with a higher design strength to allow yourself a cushion....       that said it has been my experience that most mixes surpass their design strength so long as the concrete is poured  with a reasonable slump and is off the truck and in place fairly quickly.  You can usually pour a 6" slump on flatwork without hurting strength much if any.  However I have seen guys try to pour at a 4 or 5 " slump and temper the load 2 or 3 times not realizing that the last half or third of the load might be a 12 slump in actual water /cement ratio.  Best approach is to know what you are doing, have enough competent help present to handle the quantity ordered, including enough so that a couple of guys can drop back and start finishing if it is a large pour.  Get the mix workable right at the get-go and get it the heck off of the truck.  Another big strength reducer is too many revolutions on the mixer drum (many state and federal codes limit the revolutions if the concrete is to be used for highways or government buildings)this goes back to getting it off the truck as fast as possible.  Compaction is another issue: too stiff a mix cannot be adequately compacted by hand screeding, especially getting rid of the voids created by workers wading around in the concrete.  Cylinder tests are one thing but they are not always accurately reflective of what happens once the concrete is on the ground and has been finished.  I would also recommend you read the literature put out by the Portland cement Assoc. regarding hot and cold weather concreting as temperature can play a big part and won't refected by the cylinder tests.  There are a lot of variables at play.

                                                                                         Mark

    1. eborg2 | Oct 31, 2002 03:42pm | #12

      There's a decent article at http://www.thelabtexas.com/Cold_Weather.htm about cold weather concrete.

      Eric

      Edited 10/31/2002 8:46:39 AM ET by EBORG2

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Eichlers Get an Upgrade

Performance improvements for the prized homes of an influential developer who wanted us all to be able to own one.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips
  • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data