I bought a MFBM of local birch and had it T&G and profiled for flooring in my cabin. There is a lot of natural and manufacturing defect to trim or sand out but at something less than a buck per fbm ($Cdn) the difference from ready-to-use paid for the Bosch mitre saw. The stuff is 15/16″ and nominal 4″, 5″ and 6″. Having never laid in strip flooring before, I have a bunch of questions.
I expect that for practical reasons there will be a minimum length I will trim out but is there any reason to trim to an even multiple of some measure? 4″? 6″? Is commercial strip flooring ever truly random length? Has anyone ever put in a truly random length/width floor and did the customer like it?
Any need to biscuit joint the butts?
I’ve read (FHB #144) that strip flooring needs 3/4″ expansion space around the perimeter and drywall needs to be cut back to allow this. IF this is really required, anyone got a tip for cutting back a housefull of drywall?
I understand that a flooring nailer gives the board a good kick back to help lock the groove over tha tongue but the rental cost of one over several weekends would buy a good finish nailer. How was this process done before flooring nailers came along?
Final question (for now.) Is there anything I should be aware of given the wider than standard boards?
Thanks
Replies
is there any reason to trim to an even multiple of some measure? 4"? 6"?
There's no need to work to an even multiple. The best way is to loose lay a metre or so of the floor each time ahead of fixing and adjust joint positions, color, width etc. [The process is called "racking"]
Any need to biscuit joint the butts?
I would -- especially if the floor isn't to be glued as well as nailed. The wider the boards, the more tendency to cup.
I've read (FHB #144) that strip flooring needs 3/4" expansion space around the perimeter
IMO, that's excessive if the boards are acclimatised correctly -- there's almost no expansion/contraction lengthwise anyway. I normally allow 12mm, which is covered by the baseboard.
How was this process done before flooring nailers came along?
Hammer and nails and nail set, with folding wedges to tighten the board if necessary.
Is there anything I should be aware of given the wider than standard boards?
I mentioned a greater tendency to cup. It's important to spread out the boards in the area and have the temperature and humidity the same as it will be when the place is occupied. Leave them like this for 10 days to acclimatise. Open the packets if they're plastic-wrapped.
BTW, what about sanding and finishing? Here's a cheat sheet that might help you with that.
IanDG
I'm trimming, stacking and stickering the boards inside now. Likely will not start installation until Spring is well and present.
Given my board widths, would a double bead of glue be a good idea? Standard construction adhesive?
Thanks for the link to finishing. I've been avoiding thinking of it up until now.
I've always used a bead of construction adhesive [Liquid Nails or similar] about every 400mm and nailed at the same intervals. Probably overkill but I prefer that.
IanDG
Glue 400mm perpendicular to the strips? Or paralell?
Perpendicular -- be sure to clean any excess off the floor if you aren't going to lay the adjoining board within 20 minutes or so because once it hardens it will stop the board cramping up tight.
IanDG
The biscuit at end joints is a good idea. Not only to halp resist cupping like Ian mentiopns but to eliminate wood movement at that joint when someone walks thru the room. That can cause a squeek or snap.
I usually run resin paper under the flooring so I don't use glue very often.
the required expansion space is dependent on species and size of room, but most times 3/8" to 1/2" is plenty and that is covered by baseboard.
As for the nailer, I suppose you are speaking of the air actuated floor nailer. You can rent the hand powered one with a hammer for about five - ten bucks a day in some places. I've probably laid more with one of them than the pneumatic units.
Hint - be sure to hit the drive bar with the rubber end, the steel is for tapping the wood into place. And neither are for hitting your shin bone.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!