Replies

1. 
   DanH | Feb 26, 2011 06:59pm | #1

   If the female threads are hosed then just about any fix will require disassembling the faucet to get that spindle out.

   If it's the female threads then a Helicoil is probably the "correct" fix, but not easy to pull off, even if you can find the right size Helicoil kit. 

   If the female threads are relatively intact then you could cut off the male threads and drill/tap the handle for a stud.

1. 
   AndrewBeechwood | Feb 26, 2011 08:00pm | #3

   Thanks DanH, I will go to a machine supply shop on Monday to see if I can get a Helicoil solution. Drilling and tapping the handle would likely require a lathe which I don`t have access to. All seems like a lot of work for a silly stripped thread. Faucet is Pegasus from Home Depot - should have bought a better brand.

1. 
   barmil | Feb 27, 2011 04:42pm | #5

   Pegasus?

   You should have written from the gitgo that the faucet was Home Depot crapola. Would have saved everybody some time. 

2. 
   MarkH | Feb 26, 2011 07:52pm | #2

   A stopgap fix would be to put something in the faucet to get some grip for the screw.  Maybe a piece of thin copper wire, fishing line, wire solder, toothpick etc.  A helicoil would be best. But if you're really good there are a number of other good ways to fix it.  Easiest way would be to use a larger screw.  Sometimes you can get a sheetmetal screw to work.

1. 
   AndrewBeechwood | Feb 26, 2011 08:01pm | #4

   Thanks for your input MarkH.

1. 
   coonass | Feb 27, 2011 10:04pm | #6

   Andrew,

   I would try some Locktite thread locker tape. Nice stuff to have around if it does not work.

   KK

2. 
   MarkH | Mar 01, 2011 04:42pm | #9

   I never noticed the picture before.  From what I can see, the handle will not need to be unscrewed again.  Therefore I would put a small amount of epoxy on the threads and screw it on. 

1. 
   calvin | Mar 01, 2011 05:27pm | #10

   I've looked at it a couple times

   and it looks like it's bottomed out.

3. 
   junkhound | Feb 27, 2011 11:11pm | #7

   Looks like the male thread is what is stripped from your pix.

   Me, I'd put red locktite on it and screw it back together so it just snugs with what torque is left, should be good to go. 

4. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Mar 01, 2011 12:28pm | #8

   The CORRECT answer is to call the faucet manufacturer and explain the problem so they can send you the correct replacement part.  Or a new faucet.

   That's what American Standard did for me on my cheapie Home Depot faucet the broke.

5. 
   MarkH | Mar 01, 2011 07:48pm | #11

   Yeah, I think the cap comes off to remove the whole handle.  The threads look shot on both pieces, But I don't see any real reason to ever have to remove the lever from the handle.

1. 
   DanH | Mar 01, 2011 08:23pm | #12

   But, when you stop to think about it, you'll realize that a lot of force is put on that lever over a period of a few years.

1. 
   MarkH | Mar 01, 2011 08:28pm | #13

   Epoxy will hold it.

1. 
   junkhound | Mar 01, 2011 11:08pm | #14

   epoxy: Gotta choose a good epoxy or adhesive though.

   Bought a AL frame bike at a garage sale that had a stripped Al thread on the crank.  Took an old steel crank with correct metric thread, turned it down to be a press fit into hole drilled into the Al crank, and pressed it in with red locktite.

   That was 8 years ago, son appropriated the bike as new they are $700 (got it for $20! due to bad crank, new crank only was $300!)  -- repaired pedal is still holding firm.

   Faucet takes a lot less force than a bike pedal.

1. 
   MarkH | Mar 01, 2011 11:28pm | #15

   I've found the Harbor Freight 3 min epoxy is pretty good.  Or I've just been lucky. I do know that loctite red will not cure after it has (well) passed the expiration date.

2. 
   DanH | Mar 02, 2011 03:22am | #16

   That didn't make much sense -- best I can understand is you inserted a different cartridge into the bottom bracket and secured it with Loctite?  Well, it's not that unusual to secure a bottom bracket cartridge with epoxy or Loctite in a cheap bike -- there's really very little stress on the connection.  Not something I'd do with a good bike, though, since it makes changing out the cartridge a PITA.

   Or did you change some other part?  Crank spindle?  Crank arm?

3. 
   junkhound | Mar 02, 2011 11:24am | #18

   change some other part

   Drilled the stripped thread out on the crank arm to 0.5118",  machined a 10mm threaded insert for a press fit.  Installed the press fit part into the drank arm with red loctite.

4. 
   DanH | Mar 02, 2011 08:35pm | #19

   Are you talking about the pedal hole?  Generally the crank arm has no real threads on the spindle end, other than the threads for the cap/puller that are "optional" from a pure function standpoint.

6. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 02, 2011 05:56am | #17

   Try runing it intoa die, then screw it back in. If it gets a good bite on the last couple of turns, remove it and warp it in teflon tape. Or, put a drop of locktite on it and screw it back in and hope for another year or two of sue.

   The treads on that piece look a little coarse to me. A finer thread would have lasted longer and held the handle tighter. What manufacturer is it? Moen has replaced parts on a few items for me after a simple phone call to the sevice number. I've also had some luck with Delta and American Standard, but not as good as Moen. Kohler is in a class by themself. Nothing matches thier parts and they charge high $$ for replacements.

7. 
   AndrewBeechwood | Mar 12, 2011 05:19am | #20

   Thanks for your thoughts everyone. There is no grip in the threads  whatsoever at this point so what I have done as a temporary fix is drive a bolt in so that the faucet is at least functional.

   I may try the epoxy as MarkH suggests although I tend to agree with DanH that with the amount of torque generated by the heavy lever on what is actually a very relatively short portion of male threads this may not last very long. The cause of the problem is likely just that - a very heavy lever working across a very short thread interface - there is actually a lot of depth left in the bowl and if they had added a centimeter of thread this wouldn't have happened,. All the force must have gradually rocked out the threads.

   As DaveRicheson says, they should have at least used a finer thread.

   At this point I think I've learned my lesson and will never buy a pegasus product again - as I read on another forum it is the pyrite (fool's gold) of plumbing fixtures.

   Lesson learned - from now on I may just invest in Kohler as DaveRicheson states it is in a league of its own. After all time is more precious than money and I've wasted too much of it over the years.

   Thanks again.

   Andrew

1. 
   DanH | Mar 12, 2011 07:05am | #21

   If you like expensive repair parts get Kohler. If you want a faucet that will last a lifetime get Moen.

2. 
   calvin | Mar 12, 2011 10:43am | #22

   While Dan may be correct in his repair part pricing............

   I have found that all my customers either get the "part" direct from my supplier (kitchen faucet heads, sprayer hoses, things like that) or with a simple call to Kohler-parts for free, 10/15 yrs after install.  In some cases-later than that. 

   Just had a recent install of a shower.  Homowner called Kohler about a different hand held head than the one they had selected and we installed.  The rep they talked to offered different models that they might like (according to the function/spray type).  They picked one to try-the rep sent it no charge and told them to keep it if they liked it.  No need to send the original back.

   Nothing wrong with that customer service.

   Just setting the record straight Dan, don't know your experiences.

1. 
   DanH | Mar 12, 2011 12:50pm | #23

   You may be right about faucets.  There have been several complaints here about their toilet parts, though.

1. 
   calvin | Mar 12, 2011 01:48pm | #24

   I remember one............

   toilet question.

   The guts looked pretty old-50's maybe. 

   There is a life to things, resucitation sometimes is costly.