I have a balloon framed house that has the studs that are a nominal 2″ x 4″. I want to run 6-3 wire that will require a 1″ hole to be bored through the center of each stud to supply power to a subpanel. What are peoples thoughts on this size of a hole given balloon framing. These holes will travel half of the depth of the house.
Thanks for your response.
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Replies
As I've said before, with 2" X 4", the largest hole you can drill is 1". If you go larger than that, then you would have to use a nail plate. But the larger the hole, the easier it is to pull.
I have little idea about the strength issue but the lowest concentration of forces would be in the center of the stud.
~Peter
Thanks for the information.
Just an FYI, the UBC code around here (California) is 40% of a stud's width (i.e. 1-3/8" for a 3-1/2" stud) may drilled in any stud, as long as you don't get closer than 5/8" to the edge, and aren't in the same section as a notch or cut. Other criteria apply for a non-bearing stud.) But a nailing plate doesn't let you bump up the hole size; it's only for protection of the wire or pipe and doesn't provide any structural benefit, at least that you can take advantage of by Code. (Unless you've got some Code-approved brand that I haven't seen before.) I'd guess the IBC (or IRC) is going to be similar, but I could be wrong.
Edited 12/19/2006 11:29 pm ET by RichardAIA
Best answer! Not even that difficult to understand. How come a good number of trades seem to not know this?
Probably because code books are somewhat expensive, they involve careful reading, and don't have many pictures. (g,d&r).More seriously, I doubt that even 10% of the trades even OWN a copy of the building code, let alone read it. Most of the GC's I deal with don't own one, and seem to prefer getting "on the job training" from the building inspectors.
I have been a GC for 7 years, and I do own a copy of the 1997 UBC. I hate trying to find anything in it. I guess I need to take a class! My engineer has his all color tab-ed so he can find stuff. I end up making notes of where he finds stuff! With the new IRC comming out, I guess taking a class on the UBC would be kinda a waste of time. Any suggestions? Rob z
This one is free and has a nubmer of pictures.http://www.codecheck.com/pg03_04building.html#fb8notchingAnd for $15-20 each you can get the full book.But it ain't a code book. You need to understand the codes to use it..
.
Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
This is something I preach... code books aren't a 10 minute read though, but if one takes a class or 2, it all starts becoming much more apparent. Most residential codes are laid out quite logically. Commercial code I have some trouble with....
OTOH, easy to make myself look like some kind of smart guy - say I'm having a conversation with a framer about something that he is is doing that I'm not comfortable with... I just whip out my tattered and note ridden code book, point to a paragraph, and they bow to me :-) Actually I don't want to be bowed to - I just want it my way since I have the end responsibility :-)
OK - time for me to duck :-)
""Actually I don't want to be bowed to - I just want it my way since I have the end responsibility :-) ""Yep.
i agree excellent answer, i can not remember many of those things, i have to look them up over and over again. every once in a while something that is usefull sticks but mostly all i can remember is useless information.
but mostly all i can remember is useless information
LoL! Were it not for "useless" information, I'm not sure I'd remember a blame thing at all . . .
Hole sizes, I thought, had more to do with the bit size in the right-angle drill the electrican owned, than some reference to printed material (and of course, reserving the right to blame the plumber for not leaving enough lumber to drill through "correctly" . . . ) Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
There is no useless information.. just information I don't happen to need right now. ;-)
1" hole is fine just keep em away from any other holes by a foot or so.
be energized Rik
As others have said you should be okay with a 1" hole in the center of the stud.
There are a couple of exceptions to this. 1) If the studs are particulary knotty and your holes are in close proximity to these knots. You have to use your judgement on this. It won't matter if it is just a few studs since the redundancy of repetitive framing will compensate for an occasional weak stud.
2) If your holes are near any connection undergoing significant force. For instance, if you drill this series of holes near the connection between the ceiling beams and the stud. This connection could be preventing the top of the walls from spreading and a weakness in the studs at this point could be a significant problem.
I personally am unable to calculate what hole and how far away you should be even if I had all the available data. I would just stay away at least 2 ft. from that joint.
Do you have an attic, basement, or crawl space? Could you buy a little more wire and do a lot less drilling? That code allows you to drill 40% of the stud doesn't make it a good thing. Code is the bare minimum the government will allow, not a standard of excellence.
-- J.S.