*
“Gypboard” is slang or abbreviation for gypsum wallboard. The idea is it is inexpensive, if not a “gyp”. Sheetrock is one brand name for a gypsum wallboard made by one company. Gypsum of course is the white chalky plaster material sandwitched between paper.
BTW, “Fiberglas” is a brand name for one companies fiberglass material.
The Titan Impact X 440 offers great coverage with minimal overspray.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
*
Yeso is spanish for plaster of paris.
One answer to this person Q is the use of Blue Board veneer plaster.
It will look just like drywall if installed properly and last a heck of a lot longer, taking much more stress and traffic then drywall.
Brian Ewing
Ornamental Plaster
*
Maybe I didn't explain myself very well. Some of the walls in my house require structural sheathing or shearwall. Some of this will occur on inside walls. What do you use in place of sheetrock that will blend and give the same appearance?
*
You said:
"Some of the walls in my house require structural sheathing or shearwall. What do you use in place of sheetrock that will blend and give the same appearance?"
Didn't you answer your own question? Or am I missing something here?
Are you looking for a replacement for drywall or structural sheeting?
As a replacement for drywall.....use plaster or veneer....actually drywall is a replacement for plaster, but we wont get into that ;-)
Brian Ewing
Ornamental Plaster
*
You can hang 3/8 or 1/2 inch rock over the shear panels and finish as usual.This is how it is usually done. On the walls that don't have shear panel, you cut 'rip strips' out of plywood scraps to fur out as necessary to match the shear plane. If you can't handle an extra inch, A grade plywood panel can be finished like drywall.
*Mike is right from my vantage. You can even get 1/4" drywall. I had a case in an office where they wanted a pocket door to accomadate file cabinets and furniture. It was a 2 1/2" steel stud wall with 1/2" drywall both sides so regular pocket kit would not have worked. I don't remember why but we did not tear out the whole wall so I used 1/2" luan on both sides of the pocket for strength and finished them like drywall, although I had to skim coat them entirelyfor a smooth finish. Looked good when done and no call backs (3+ years)
*How about several layers of Thermoply? It was designed as sheathing, comes in 4'x8' sheets of nominal 1/8" thickness, bends real well, and is pretty strong. I guess you'd need a more thoroughly quantified value than that . . . I never tried to finish Thermoply with anything, I've only used it on curved parapets, so we stucco over it. Maybe if you put the last ply on with the reflective face in toward the center of the wall you could spray what is normally the inside (or backside) of the sheathing to match the drywall next to it. I think I'll try to paint a piece and see how it works.
*
If I understand your question you need a sheathing on an interior wall that is going to give you a structural shear rating. In my experiences a shear rating is a form of bracing and a manner of attaching framing members in a way that will resist forces that are pulling (or pushing)in a direction perpendicular to the anchors.
If I understand you what you need is a method of preventing this from happening on an interior wall. I assume that what is happening is that the top plate is being moved in an opposite direction than the bottom plate. Therefore you wish to have a sheathing that prevents this.
You also want this to finish with the same appearance as drywall.
If I have interpreted your question correctly then my answer would be to use a layer of 1/2" O.S.B. covered with 3/8" drywall. You will loose 3/8" but this shouldn't be much of a concern.
Another option would be to let in diagonal bracing then rock it as normal.
If your problem involves stopping the entire wall from being moved perpendicular to the anchors then there are other methods of fastening top and bottom plates.
Add blocking top and bottom between the joists and lag or bolt the plates to this.
Also you can stack your framing for compresive strength. Or put your wall stud layouts directly over floor joists and your ceiling joist layout over studs.
Hope this helps.
*
What have people been using in place of sheetrock for structural interior walls, when it needs to look like adjacent sheetrock?
*I am not sure I understand your question, but the caffine hasn't quite kicked in. Maybe for us slow folks you could rephrase it.
*and thats what I think people are using instead of sheetrock.Hope this helps.
*An interesting question. I'm anxious to hear what others use. I use drywall, myself, but that is just genereic Sheetrock, which of course is a trade name. I've heard of people who use gypboard. In Mexico I have used yeso, but that can mean plaster, too. There just aren't as many words in Spanish. Anyone else have any ideas?
*Yes, YES! This is very true.I want to associate myself with Mikes site.My friend Thes Aurus would know the answer hereIn tricky situations like this one, its been very helpful. Hope this helps.
*"Gypboard" is slang or abbreviation for gypsum wallboard. The idea is it is inexpensive, if not a "gyp". Sheetrock is one brand name for a gypsum wallboard made by one company. Gypsum of course is the white chalky plaster material sandwitched between paper.BTW, "Fiberglas" is a brand name for one companies fiberglass material.