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Stucco v. Hardiplank/cedar

| Posted in General Discussion on July 29, 2000 05:16am

*
We are progressing on the design of our remodeling and appreciate your input to date. Here’s the latest decision that needs to be made. Our architect suggests using a stucco-type material applied over cement board. He believes that this would be the aesthetic choice given our Prairie-style design. Until now we had assumed that we would use cedar or Hardiplank lap siding. I have read horror stories here and elsewhere about some stucco applications, although the architect advises that it is the failure of the materials under the stucco that causes these problems and that the cement board will withstanding any moisture that gets past the stucco. Also, architect predicts that the cost for the stucco would be comparable to brick, which leads me to think that maybe its brick that we should use. Any thoughts/experience on the aesthetics and/or reliability of this type of stucco application?

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  1. Guest_ | Jul 28, 2000 06:31am | #1

    *
    Hawkeye,

    The "horror stories" you mention involve the use of synthetic stucco (brand names such as Dryvit and Stowelit are manufacturers of synthetic stucco.)

    These types of stucco are applied overtop a styrofoam type base which has been attached (usually glued on ) to the house's wall sheathing. This type of stucco is acrylic based and when cured, will definately keep out water, HOWEVER, the moisture problems associated with this type product are due to faulty flashing techniques around window sills, exterior door trim, and anywhere else that flashing/weather proofing is needed to prevent water penetration. If water does penetrate, there are no weep holes to allow the moisture to escape. Eventually, the water penetrates into the wall sheathing and rots it away. The state of North Carolina had several cities with serious problems because the contractors did not weather proof correctly. There was an older article in Fine Homebuilding concerning this issue.

    Dryvit has in the last couple of years come out with a new method of installation techniques designed to provide ventilation between the stucco and the wall sheathing so that any trapped water can escape.

    As far as from what I gather, your architect is planning on using a cement based stucco; which has been in use forever. I don't think you would need to use Hardie Plank for this operation. The wall sheathing needs to be wrapped in felt paper or house-wrap, and then stucco mesh is attached to the sheathing with fasteners, and the stucco is then applied overtop the mesh. This type of stucco is applied in 3 coats, a "scratch" coat, a "brown" coat and then a "finished" coat. Because it is cement based, it takes much longer to cure and can shrink and crack on you. Proper flashing and ventilation concerns still must be dealt with as with the Dryvit type stucco.

    If I am wrong and your architect is planning on using the Dryvit type stucco, find out the brand name and see whether or not they will warrant their product if it is indeed installed overtop of Hardie Plank. The use of HP may be prohibited and will void your manufacturer's warranty.

    For my money, if brick was an option and you could afford it, then it would be a "no brainer"....go with the brick!

    Brick comes in many colors and designs and to me is way more beautiful than stucco. It is also much more maintenance free. The 1 inch air space between the brick and the wall sheathing also helps to insulate the house and act as a sound barrier. Brick walls also must have weep holes installed to allow water vapor to escape. A good bricklayer has no problem in doing this.

    I have only seen a few prarie style homes, but all were brick.

    Brick it! You'll be glad you did.

    Davo.

    1. Guest_ | Jul 28, 2000 06:59am | #2

      *Hey stucco-people: I'm placing a french door unit in a CMU wall with stucco (parging?) over it -- cement block with brown then white coat, and the (unfortunately, cause it's peeling) paint. Anyway: how to patch in the new door unit, that is, how to "stucco" over the jacks/kings/header I'm inserting so it doesn't simply crack free? My instinct is to use galv. mesh screwed to the wood and concrete to bridge the gap, and trowel on ... something.Re aethetics: yes, pick the brick!!!Re EIFS horrors: don't do it! I'd trust Hardiboard (if approved) but not styrofoam.

  2. Hawkeye_ | Jul 29, 2000 05:16pm | #3

    *
    Davo - Thank you for your input. Do you have any "rules of thumb" to use in calculating the cost of brick instead of cedar or Hardiplank, such as cost per square foot? The more I think about this the less impressed I am with the stucco alternative, especially if there is significant maintenance involved.

  3. Hawkeye_ | Jul 29, 2000 05:16pm | #4

    *
    We are progressing on the design of our remodeling and appreciate your input to date. Here's the latest decision that needs to be made. Our architect suggests using a stucco-type material applied over cement board. He believes that this would be the aesthetic choice given our Prairie-style design. Until now we had assumed that we would use cedar or Hardiplank lap siding. I have read horror stories here and elsewhere about some stucco applications, although the architect advises that it is the failure of the materials under the stucco that causes these problems and that the cement board will withstanding any moisture that gets past the stucco. Also, architect predicts that the cost for the stucco would be comparable to brick, which leads me to think that maybe its brick that we should use. Any thoughts/experience on the aesthetics and/or reliability of this type of stucco application?

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