It seemed like a big issue in Mike’s holsaw responses was ease or difficulty in removing stuck holsaw plugs after cutting.
It isn’t the easiest system but I have found a cumbersome but generally guaranteed system of ejecting stubborn plugs is to:
Wear gloves so handling a hot holsaw isn’t a problem
Develop a technique for releasing the two pin mandrel and run the drill in reverse to power the holsaw off the mandrel.
holding the holsaw in one hand I use a drift (always in my bags next to a nail set) and by inserting it through the mandrel hole and tap the plug out of the holsaw. Usually I just hold the drift against the wood plug and tap the end of the drift against any handy immobile surface though with a bit of juggling I could also tap it with my hammer.
I then power the holsaw back onto the mandrel by running the drill forward.
I have a lenox plug ejecting mandrel but I rarely use it as this technique seems to work with just about all my holsaws and it is pretty quick once I get my rythm down.
I also pull the holsaw out of the hole periodically to allow saw dust to fall out and holding the drill at a slight angle I rotate it around the hole as I drill to make the hole slightly oversize.
Once you get a system down for removing the holsaw quickly from the mandrel and find gloves that protect you from the hot holsaw it almost always works.
Someone mentioned prying the plugs throught the slots in the side. I don’t recall having to do that but it sounds like way too much work.
I have also heard of drilling a 1/2″ hole in the perimeter of the hole being cut by the holesaw to allow sawdust to escape but I haven’t tried it.
What techniques are the rest of you finding successful?
karl
Replies
Depends on what you are drilling. The norm is through a door. Drill 75% from one side, until the pilot comes through, drill from the other side until the plug breaks loose, remove drill and pull plug from drill. No prying needed,
Any time the plug is flush with the teeth I just use the slots on the drill. Pry about 3 times and the plug pops right out. No fuss.
"The norm is through a door. Drill 75% from one side, until the pilot comes through, drill from the other side until the plug breaks loose..."You must have a really small drill for that technique to work on the 1" bolt/latch hole. :)BruceT
You must have a really small drill for that technique to work on the 1" bolt/latch hole. :)
Why on Earth would you wanna use a hole saw for a 1" hole? Are you a glutton for punishment?? Or are you collecting the plugs for midget checker sets?
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Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I run a 3" deck screw into the plug near the pilot, as the screw bottoms out on the hole saw the plug walks up the threads and comes out enough to then grab the screwhead and pull it the rest of the way.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"
Jed Clampitt
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I wish the holesaws cut a wider kerf so there would not be such a problem. They are terrible when the paint is fresh. But I do the screw thing too when the plug is stuck.
If it's not to be pretty, I rock the saw round as I go, makes for a looser plug.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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>>I rock the saw round as I go, makes for a looser plug.<<
This is the technique we used when I was building fiberglass boats.
The boats were very heavily built commercial hulls and 3/4" to 1-1/4"+ hull thicknesses were not uncommon below the waterline - they "thinned out" to 5/8" or so above the waterline. Stapleton Boat works in Perine, FL., now defunct, but many of the boats survive and are highly sought after in the used market. Known for being "wet" but extremely rugged and stable platforms.
First hole saw cut that I made, I focused on keeping the saw running straight with a minimum of wobble ---- huge mistake - took about an hour to remove the plug.
One of the guys showed me the wobble trick and life was better.
I like the deck screw trick!
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I've got a Vermont Mericun arbor that reverse threads into a hole saw. In a door, I drill it, then cock the hole saw blade in hole, and put the drill in reverse. The blade climbs up the mandrel and pops the plug out.For the 4" electric box cut outs, a few knocks from the back with a drift pin and hammer work... unless it's sits in there for a real long time<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now I wish I could give Brother Bill his great thrill
I would set him in chains at the top of the hill
Then send out for some pillars and Cecil B. DeMille
He could die happily ever after"
You'd be astounded at the number of holes in a Pipe Organ that need to be as close to perfect as can be.
It wasn't uncommon to drill hundreds a day on a drill press, I added a foot pedal and keyless chuck. Everything up to about 6" was either hole saw, selffeed,or fly cutter. Holesaw was last resort due to plugging, and self feeds are expensive as hell. I found that it also REALLY helps to either replace the selffeed screw with a pilot or file off the threads , drill presses and feed screws are not a good match (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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I saw an infomercial with a rotozip and a circle cutting attachment. Seems like something along those lines would have worked better. Hole saws are a pain. I bound one up with a Milwaukee magnum hole shooter and the handle twisted my thumb backwards so hard far it never fully recovered. It was purple and swollen for a long time. Now it still has a little stiffness and pain.
This was before rotozips were used for anything but drywall. I had many router jigs, both trammel and bearing guided cut out templates.
Luckily the majority of holes I had to form were 3/4" plywood for racking the pipes, I also have a set of GOOD forstners that were used only on solid wood, to maintain sharp. Another set for plywood. Before my shop fire, I bet I had over 2000 drills of various type and function, I'm still finding boxes of bits I pulled from the ashes, but the temper is shot on everything that was a cutting edge...or rusted beyond repair. I'm down to maybe 600 or so working bits now.
It is a miracle I didn't kill that SOB that caused the blaze, I was there a day after and he was too..I had a girlfriend with me ( read witness) and she was amazed at my calm disposition, but actually, I think I was in shock more than calm.
Just recently, I replaced all the clutches in my clamps that I able to save, Jorgensen was kind enough to send me the springs and parts, they were some of few tools that survived the intense heat, I have one that was a 3' I beam, is now a 90 degree bend, it was on the wall, got red hot, and fell and bent into an ell. The rest I reheated and sledge hammered on a chopping block to get them back semi straight. Then sand blasted all of them.
14 yrs ago last month, and I still haven't replaced everything yet.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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That really sucks. I have had several thefts of tools, same here, not all replaced.
I made truck/tractor kits for my sons 4rth birthday party, made all the dads and some moms help their kids put them together. Everything came from 2x3, 1/4" rod, and plywood.
8 holes drilled for wheels in plywood per kit, 16 kits total.
My trick was to put a heavy spring inside the hole saw, over the drill bit. The plug would be easily pooped out with that spring providing pressure.
Tu stultus es
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Great idea!
A trick shown on Ask This Old House is to drive a couple of drywall screws into the plug, so they bump up against the back of the saw bell and push the plug out.
using Milwaukees self feeding forstner bits..
IN addition it's possible to drill holes through many, many, inches of wood..
they only come in sizes up to 4 5/8ths though..
Yeah, The milwaukee self feed bits are great if blowout in the back is tolerable. I find the bimetal holsaws are more tolerant of the occassional nail so I like to have a holsaw handy as backup if I do find myself drilling through a nail.I only have them in 1 3/8, 2 1/8 and 2 9/16.I like the idea someone posted of putting a big spring over the pilot to eject the plug. I need to remember to look for an appropriate spring next time I am at the hardware store.Karl
If you back out the blade frequently to clear out sawdust, removal becomes easier. A good quality hole saw will have slots on two sides. I use two thin screwdrivers or nails or whatever will fit into slots on opposite sides. The plugs usually pop out with just a flick. I also use the wobble technique, but mainly for the first two thirds of the cut.
Exactly! The key is to push on both sides at the same time, otherwise you are just walking the wedge from side to side.
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Actually, I have invented a tool that pretty much makes the hole saw a dinosaur. I haven't gotten off of the starting blocks to get a patent yet. Maybe I will do that over the next year or so.
I have several improvements on tools that would probably be feasible if I could ever make the time to figure out the process. With so many sharks out there on the internet, you don't know who to trust to get a patent.How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
Aw, you can post the idea here -- it'll be perfectly safe!
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
Wow, that is the same thing those patent attorneys say when I google patent. They swarm around like piranhas. When you click on one of their sites, it is like dropping some blood in the water. Not only that, they assure me the process is as easy as sending a few drawings and a description of the invention. Everything is strictly confidential!How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
See? They agree with me.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
Hey Sas,
There was a guy here awhile back who, after being frustrated with going through the prosess of patenting, manufacturing, marketing his idea/product, started his own website to help others get through the process.
I'll try to track down the thread for you, I think his name was Mike something...lol. Anyway, I have emailed with him before concerning our "product" and he was generous with valuable information.
hang on...looking for a link for you, brb
I found it. Mike Hart. Don't know if he is still doing it or not, but if you email him through BT, I am sure he will answer any questions you have as he did for me. (No charge, that was his idea in the first place.)
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=80335.1
He hasn't been around for awhile tho...hmm...
Maybe they bought him out and filed him away.
Possibly. I have no idea. Just know that he offered us helpful information.
I may bump up the thread just to see if he is still there.
I know he tried to put together a discussion forum for inventors which got hit by p*rn links. Not his fault, and it frustrated him. Not sure if he has it straightened out yet.
I'll let you know how it goes...
Thanks, I will check it out.
Meanwhile, I have done some research on the official US patent site and have found a registered patent attorney that is located in my state and seems to be honest.How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
Hmmm... "Honest" and "attorney" used in the same sentence!
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
snorK*
I thought the same.
I'm an optimist. I do have a bit of reservation, though! ;)How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
"Meanwhile, I have done some research on the official US patent site and have found a registered patent attorney that is located in my state and seems to be honest."
SEEMS to be honest.
Well, good luck with that. We have already jumped through those hoops. Your patent attorney will end up costing you WAY more than you know. Don't let him/her charm you.
Talk to Mike, if you get the chance.
I guess I will have to become pretty knowledgeable about this whole business before making any commitments. Meanwhile, another great idea is put on hold.How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
The patent system is really not designed to help you out, in fact, it's just the opposite. The patent system allows big companies to sue other people for deriving economic benefit from their ideas. In many ways, the current patent system is the most important legacy of Thomas Edison, which used the system to determinedly push the limits of GE's corporate monopoly.Patents allow you to punish and seek damages from others after they've derived economic benefit from your idea. It doesn't prevent others from "using" your idea. It's a subtle distinction, but an important one.It means YOU have to monitor for offenders and pursue them through the legal system.For most solo inventors, you're much better off finding someone to manufacture your idea, pay for a manufacturing run, and sell them yourself.There are exceptions, but for the most part, patents are not good tool for the private inventor, despite what the legal sharks out there tell you (right before they hit you up for inflated search and filing fees). I'll bet you could write to Robin Lee (Leonard's kid, who has taken over the family business at Lee Valley) and get his take. If it's a decent idea, with a reasonable payoff, you might be able to sell it to them as well.-t
Thanks, I will give that some thought.How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
When possible, I drill from one side then the other. When not possible, I rock around the hole to keep the plug loose. I'd rather not rock it for doorlocks and such, as that also makes the hole slightly larger and the lock fits loose, but then I can always go from both sides installing locks.
On those few occasions when I can't drill from both sides and I need a precission cut, I drive a screw into the plug to pull it out. If I can't do any of the above, I go to lunch.
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
Meet me at House & Builder!
I just swap hole saws with my buddy who has the same set.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
Hey, that's what friends are for, hee hee.~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!
Chuck it in the woodstove overnight, that'll work.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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I put em in a jar of hungry termites.
Then ya have to burn the termites out.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Not if you give em a week.
Remove the holesaw from the mandrel.
Push plug out from the back using the pilot bit.
Cut another hole.
I also rock the saw a bit while cutting.
Tried removing the plug by using an awl and the slots in the side of the holesaw, but that never worked as well as pushing the plug out using the pilot bit. The method works OK if the holesaw is removed from the mandrel. I think the problem is the plug binds on the pilot bit as it is rocked out of the holesaw. Removing the pilot bit removes the extra interference.
lube the hole saw before the cut...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I like the idea of lubing it up prior to cutting. Would you use wd40, motor oil, grease?Karl
rude and crude won't matter... WD....
TriFlow is more gooder...
silicone spray....
Bostick dry lube where staining would matter...
furniture paste wax...
but not motor oil or grease...
lube inside and out... the lube will really show it's merit on large holes.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Reset the inside teeth. Deeper into the bell.
I do have a saw set I found in Grandma's attic but I am a bit skeptical about the feasibility of adding set to a holesaw under 3". I generally have the most trouble getting the plug past the teeth. The plug doesn't typically hang up on the smooth inner surface???Have you tried this or is it just a brainstorm?Karl
Done it.You don't have to change the set very much.Result is that the plug still catches on the teeth, because it is the same size as the inside set of the teeth.But the plug doesn't catch on the sides of the bell. Making it easier to get out of the bell.....You are always welcome at Quittintime
Edited 5/5/2009 6:24 pm by Luka