Replies

1. 
   wrick2003 | Oct 08, 2003 01:16am | #1

        If you've never stuccoed a large project before, you should hire a professional.

        rg

1. 
   ez | Oct 08, 2003 03:51am | #2

   Why?  I'm a competent carpenter, I have watched it done before, just never done it myself.  My existing house has a rough stucco finish (not rough in texture, but with a very uneven surface, lots of trowel marks), which I want to duplicate as much as possible, so I won't be trying for a smooth finish.  Are the techniques difficult to learn?

2. 
   ez | Oct 12, 2003 04:29am | #6

   I would hire a pro, but there was only one in the vicinity (he did the 1400 sq. ft. addition I built ten years ago) and he died...I don't think it had anything to do with doing my job, but you never know.  My alternatives are Hardie board or masonite, or go with a finish that doesn't match the rest of the house.  The masonite pattern, oddly enough, matches the finish of the rest of the house pretty well, but I just have a resistance to using masonite.  The Hardie board pattern doesn't match as well, and I have a curved wall.  I don't think the Hardie board will handle the curve without cracking.  Any other ideas?

2. 
   Catskinner | Oct 08, 2003 03:54am | #3

   EZ,

   At the least, you are going to need a helper. Ideally, a helper who has done this before. It really is a lot harder than it looks to get a good job.

   That having been said, I'd never dissuade anyone from a good adventure on their own house.

   You can either do the traditional 3-coat, or a "one coat", which is actually two coats. Go figure.

   If you go the three coat route:

   Scratch coat is 3 cubic feet of sand to 1 cubic foot of cement. A 94 pound sack is 1 cubic foot. Make yourself a 2x6 box 17-3/4 inch on a side, count how many shovelfuls of sand to fill it, go with three of those per sack.

   Don't get the stucco mix too wet.

   Scratch and brown should each be 3/8" thick.

   Brown coat can have a little more sand in it.

   Anywhere from three days to a few years between scratch and brown is fine.

   I would strongly suggest a one-coat system like Western 1-Kote or ElRey Fiber 47 if this is your first time out.

   Install a "wash" and flashing at the base of the frame wall. All water must reliably exit from behind the stucco.

   If you can't get the drainage details right, get someone to help. You might sell this home to someone else someday.

   Good Luck!

   DRC

1. 
   ez | Oct 12, 2003 04:33am | #7

   Tell me more about the one coat systems.  Are they still applied over expanded metal?  Thanks for the info about ratios, that is helpful.  Tell me more about drainage, particularly how to do it and not create a path for insects.

3. 
   444tdi | Oct 08, 2003 04:49am | #4

   For stuccoing, the hardest part is learning how to flip the mud off the hawk with the trowel.  Before actually applying stucco to the wall, get a piece of plywood and nail some lath on it, place the expansion joint just like would if you actually doing the job.  Then scratch, brown, and finish.  Practice the troweling technique needed to copy the finish.  Stucco mix will vary a little by the part of the country where you live.  Go to a job site and ask what they are using.  In Austin TX area, I use 18-20 square shovels of builders sand (brick layers sand) to 1 bag of cement, and 2 shovels of masonary lime (not air entrained) for scratch.  The more lime the faster the set, but the weaker the finished product.  Try to brown what you scratch each day so the finished product will have a better bond (more monolithic).  finish coat if grey color is desired can be same mix as brown coat but screened to elimnate anything larger than 1/4 inch. You can finish after all brown coat is done, but make sure you stop each day at a place where a cold joint won't matter.  If you want white finish coat, I suggest you buy premixed finish coat. Use an expansion joint, and weep holes for a better connection between the 2 walls.  I also suggest vertical expansion joint every 4-6 feet (depends on how much mud you can handle at one time) to make rodding the mud easier.  This too takes technique in learning how to slice the mud off to form a vertical surface without pulling it all off the lath.  One secret is to keep you darby or joint rod damp with water.

1. 
   ez | Oct 12, 2003 04:36am | #8

   Thanks a lot for the suggestions.  Very helpful, to the point, and with enough detail to make sense to me. 

4. 
   Catskinner | Oct 08, 2003 04:19pm | #5

   EZ,

   Here's a little more info on the termination at the retaining wall; 3/4" stucco stop AKA "casing bead" is a metal strip designed to do exactly what you need. Anyplace that sells lathe will sell this. It's cheap, gives a nice clean job.

   You do not want to caulk this. The idea behind the housewrap is twofold. 1) it provides a shear plane for the stucco 2) and far more importantly, provides drainage for moisture which will most likely get behind the stucco no matter what you do.

   Put a cant strip with flashing at the base of the wall so the water can drain out, nail the stucco stop to the retaining wall about 8" above grade, and you should be good to go.

   The point made earlier about the lime is a good idea. A little bit of lime will make the stucco stickier and much easier to work with.

   The lime only weakens it in compression, and actually improves it a little in its ability to flex, so this is not a bad idea all the way around. Just a couple shovels per sack, though.

   Also, if you moist cure it if the weather is above 60 degrees, you'll get better results.

   Be really careful to mask your windows. Stucco slag will permanently etch glass if left on the windows for a few days.

   DRC

1. 
   ez | Oct 12, 2003 04:42am | #9

   Just so I understand, are you suggesting that I use a cant strip and flashing at the intersection of the stud wall and retaining wall in order to divert the water?  I can't use the stop strip 8" down on the concrete, because the stud wall exterior plane sets in about 3" from the retaining wall exterior plane.  I went for flush on the inside, rather than the outside, but sloped that portion of the top of the retaining wall for drainage.

1. 
   brownbagg | Oct 12, 2003 07:04am | #10

   I was going to stucco mine , myself but got talk into stucco stlye paint instead (not happy) There a web page that shoe how, I do not have the address, so do a search. You might waste a day learning but I think you can do it, wet the wall first.