I had trees removed to clear an area for a detached garage/workshop and would like to know what’s the best practice to get rid of the tree stumps. There are several 15-18 inch stumps and numerous smaller ones. Is it better to have the stumps ground down or to have them dug out?
Thanks,
Use these assembly techniques when installing crown risers and molding to minimize visible gaps and nail holes.
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Replies
where you located?
In my climate I would have the stumps dug out. a 15" diameter stump will occupy a lot of underground space with roots which will likely attract termites or a least settle when rotted.
There are reinforced or prestressed slab systems that may overcome these issues but I have no help on that info.
You don't want to put a slab or foundation directly over a ground-down stump.
Just contact the local "milita" and tell them they can have some practice blowing things up.
Tree stump issue
I assume you removed the trees because they are in the footprint of the new structure? If so, no choice-you have to strip the topsoil in any case and you might as well dig them out in the process. A mini excavator is more convenient then a backhoe but in any case, size of machine is the issue. Bigger the machine, faster the job. I dug a large stump recently with a 420 Cat backhoe-and it was on the edge of a paved area so Ihad to use care and did not hve full 360 access. This stump was so big, when I went to move it with the loader bucket -and its chained tothe bucket-it was so heavy the bucket would not curl. Just be patient and keep snapping roots.
If not in the building footprint, a lot cheaper to have someone come in and grind down. Digging them out also creates a disposal issue which in some areas can be expensive ifyou don't have the property where you cvan just let them decay.
tree stump removal
The best choice is to dig them out and chase large roots at least 3'-5' from a foundation. If they are large ones near or in where you are pouring concrete you can fill the void with properly moisterized and compacted earth material. The fill should be tested buy a soils test lab for the recommended compaction, usually 90-95% relative Proctor, to be determined by a soils engineer. They would also expect the fill be placed into a clean and squared out excavation after the stump is removed. When done properly the footing could be placed as if the stump did not exist.
Stump Removal Question
You definitely have to remove the stump (which is the easy part), otherwise when it rots, you'll experience settlement and cracks in your floor and foundation. The tough part is getting rid of all the roots also. We normally get all we can, but will never leave anything that shows up. Some trees don't have a lot of branch roots, while others have a mass of them, whichever you have...get them all. If you have a Cat and a Backhoe, the Cat works best to push the stump over (if you left 3 or 4 foot high stump). If you've cut the stump close to the ground, forget the Cat, and just start ripping it out with a Backhoe. You can dig around the stump enough to hook onto it with chains. I've had to do this many times, and believe me you'll be glad you've gotten rid of the entire mess.
As a stump removal scope of the problem for the OP, the first old growtH DFir stump I ever removed was with an old cat D2 with blade only.
Took me 2 DAYS, and it was only a 3 ft dia stump. That was when my old boss suggested blasting was easier (still could get dynamite retail in the 60's)
A guy bought some lots back of me 40 years ago, no road in. He though his buddy with a F250 and 10K winch would make short work of 1 ft dia alder stumps about 3 ft high - could not even move them.
Read once that a come along between 2 stumps and a few pulls everyday could pull even the 'biggest stump' in a few weeks. BULL..puckey. Tried that on a 3 ft high 600 YO DFir stump next to a 1000 YO DFir stump (both > 4 ft dia). Used a 6 ton roller chain come along with a couple of 20 T snatch blocks and 3/4" wire rope. Gave up after 2 months, neither moved.
Pulled a 43" dia cottonwood over. Double 5/8" wire rope around trunk 70 (seventy!) feet up, 10K winch with 3/8 cable thru first block = 20K, then that block pulling 1/2" wire rope thru another block onto the double 5/8" = about 40k#. So, approximate 2.8 MILLION foot pounds of torque on that 'stump' to pull the tree over (about 20 ft dia root ball). The winch was straining. Torque about what a full sized track loader with the bucket up high can apply.
Hopefully the OP had only little 6" dia or so trees, and did not cut them off at the ground, otherwise lots of backhoe digging in his plans.
Remove the organics
Hire a track loader, You've got to remove all the top soil to a stable base as well as the organics (as much as you can) that will rot. The stumps are included in organics. Mini trackhoes are a great way to spend money on rent and still have stumps left over as well as a need to compact, flatten, level & grade the site. A good operator can have you ready in a day or two depending on how much dirt has to be removed and and how much stable fill has to be brought in.
If it's within the footprint, then the entire stump and root system needs to be grubbed out. Make sure they also strip the top soil off. Easy job for anything that is larger than a compact excavator.
you should have the stumps removed. luckily for you they are quite small so removing them should not be too hard. depending on the specie of the tree, the stump may have a large tap root that goes straight down. this makes it difficult to pull the stump sideways with, say, your truck. so, if you want to save a $500 back-hoe rental, do what swedish farmers used to do and pull the stump straight UP with a tripod and block&tackle. they come out a LOT easier that way. also, don't try pressure washing the roots to expediate excavation as you'll just create a muddy mess and not to mention, a waste of water. also, if you use a powersaw to cut some of the roots short, beware of any stones that may be embedded in the roots