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Framing interior walls, Do I need to add blocking between rafter along walls for sheetrock ceiling to screw to. rafters are 24 oc.
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Backing for sheet rock is needed only when the wall runs parallel to the joist.
*up to you , johnnie.. here, we furr all of our ceilings so it's not an issue..the rockers don't need it.. but i would like the blocking...your choice
*Nowadays I let the ends of ceiling rock float more and more. Wall sheet will hold it up, fewer cracks in corner I think. What about your truss lift?
*Johnnie,I blocked on walls parralell to the trusses on my in-laws home. i also nailed the wall top plates to the truss bottom cords on all perpindicular walls.BIG MISTAKE! Truss up lift cracked about 50% of the drywall ceiling to wall corners. I had to go back in the attic and pull every nail on the walls perpindicular to the trusses, and add clipps to the top plates. This helped some, but the wallboard was still nailed to the trusses to close to the walls.I now add the blocking to the top plates only. Use truss clips to attach the top plates to the trusses, and do not nail the drywall within 18" of any wall. I use the top sheet of the wall board to push the ceiling board up agianst the blocking. This allows the ceiling to float enough, that if you do get truss up-lift, that the corners seldom crack.I guess that is what lonecat is doing also.
*i ask this question to the trusses mfg. he claimed that since we do not get cold weather and it has only snow once in the last forty three years, trusses uplift is not a problem. He clamied that trusses uplift was due to temp change and weight. Also my trusses are held in three points. Back wall, front wall, front porch beam. with light weight roofing
*Dave I've nailed interior walls to trusses in the last hundred houses I've framed. Never had a problem with cracks. I use simpson h1's on at least one end of every truss. Maybe that's what saves me.
*DW backing always goes on top of the wall, not between the bottom chords of trusses. Trusses can move away from the wall. Minimizes cracking if truss up-lift is a problem.
*Truss up lift in Johnnie's neighborhood involves large funnel shaped clouds. Clips don't work. Joe H
*Matthew,I think only about 10% of all trussed manufactured acctualy experience the degree of truss up-lift seaver enough to crack the drywall joints. I built them my way for years and never had a problem. My luck ran out on my in-laws home, of course. I guess I was still lucky. At least it wasn't a paying customer that would sue me. Dave
*Johnnie, since you don't have to worry about truss uplift, you won't need blocking. Install your ceiling board first and gravity will force it down onto the wall board.blue
*Nail a 2x6 over and in line with the 2x4 cap plate. It gives an inch overhang on each side to act as a drywall nailer for the rock that goes on the ceiling.
*JB - i truss uplift was due to temp change and weightThat's a crock. Truss uplift is caused by moisture, temperature changes, and lack of ventilation. Not having snow doesn't mean you won't have truss uplift. Next time you see that guy, slap him upside the head for me and tell him he's an embarassment to the truss industry. The 3 point thing will i notmake a difference. BTW - The PC term for truss uplift is i "Ceiling-Floor Partition Separation Phenomenon"That makes it sound more official and mysterious.........
*Johnnie, I think you've forgotten that the ceiling will be strapped and the drywall is screwed to the stapping.
*:-)brian