FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Sub-Panels, again

Tim | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on July 14, 2008 07:51am

As I understand it, in a residential electrical system, the NEC requires that sub-panels have the neutral bus and the ground bus are separated. Separate conductors are provided for hots, neutral and ground, back to the main panel.

In the main panel, the branch circuits, including feeders for sub-panels, have all the neutrals and grounds tied together on the same bus. At least this is how the electrician wired my house (not a DIY).

If the ground and neutral are tied together in the main panel, what good is separating them “downstream” in the sub-panels?

Are outdoor subpanels treated any differently than indoor sub-panels (other than the weather resistence of the enclosure)?

Is there a requirement to add “local” grounding to sub-panels? And under what circumstances?

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    BillHartmann | Jul 14, 2008 08:09pm | #1

    The basic principle is that within a structure that any metal that you come into contact with is at the same potential.

    That is "ground".

    The other basic principle is that if you have current normally flowing through a wire it will have a voltage drop.

    So at the service disconnect the metalic water pipes are bonded to the panel. And the refigerator is also grounded to the same point via the equipment grounding conductor; ie the ground wire.

    Thus if you touch the refigerator with one hand and the faucet with the other they are at the same potential.

    However, if the refigerator is feed from a sub-panel and the grounds are connected to the neutral in the sub-panel then you would have voltage drop from the current in the neutral back to the main panel. So the refigerator and faucet won't be at the same potential.

    Normally that difference would be too small to even notice. But if there becomes a high resistance connection on the neutral you can have enough difference to kill.

    But if the in the sub-panel the neutral was isolated then there isn't any current in the ground from the sub to the main. Thus refigerator and faucet would have the same potential even if the neutral was fried.

    Exterior panels for the same structure are treated the same.

    "Is there a requirement to add "local" grounding to sub-panels? And under what circumstances?"

    "Grounding" is not an exact term. Are you talking about a GROUND ELECTRODE SYSTEM?

    A ground electrode system is not designed to affect the operation within a structure. It's purpose is for shunting surges from lightning.

    There is no need for additional ground electrode systems within a structure.

    A separate structure that has more than one circuit requires it's own ground electrode system.

    .
    .
    A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
    1. Tim | Jul 14, 2008 08:47pm | #2

      Is it your opinion/belief/understanding that if the resistence is great enough,GFCI's will "nuisance" trip? Would the voltage drop cause enough difference in potential to be a "ground fault"?

      So, aside from the theoretical question above, the answers are:

      Sub-panels must have separate, isolated ground and neutral busses that remain separate back to the main distribution panel.

      Outdoor sub-panels are treated as if they are within a single, continuous structure.

      No extra ground electrode system(s) are required for sub-panels within the same structure.

      1. User avater
        BillHartmann | Jul 14, 2008 10:25pm | #5

        "Is it your opinion/belief/understanding that if the resistence is great enough,GFCI's will "nuisance" trip? Would the voltage drop cause enough difference in potential to be a "ground fault"?"Has nothing to do with GFCI.The GFCI just compare current in the hot to current in the neutral for that circuit.A ground fault is where the current in the hot lead does not return via the neutral. To make up an example Lets say that you have a light bulb with 120 ohms resistance so that 1 amp flowed.Now the resistance of the neutral, either the neutral for the light bulb or neutral to the feeder for the sub-panel that the light bulb is feed from, goes up to 120 ohms.The current in the circuit is now 120/120+120) = .5 amps. But that is the same current in the hot or in the neutral.And if something was referenced to that neutral it would be 60 volts with respect to "ground"..
        .
        A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

    2. WorkshopJon | Jul 14, 2008 09:46pm | #3

      Bill,

      Since we are on the topic... is it OK to tap into a subpanel to feed a subpanel in a detached building, assuming the building has its own independent grounding, and is it incorrect to connect the 1st subpanel  ground in addition from the pass through sub to the second sub?  or does every sub have to independently have to come off the main panel?

      WSJ

      1. User avater
        BillHartmann | Jul 14, 2008 10:32pm | #6

        Any sub-panel (in the same building or different) can come off anyohter panesl for residential applications.One problem that you get with sub-panels is that you no longer have demand factor. Residential calcualtions realizes that don't have all lgihts on all the time, all receptacels loaded to max, all burners and oven on hight all one, etc.But as you break it down, for example you have sub-panel for just a bathroom. They you need to size that panel and feed for the full 20 amps.Now with large industrail and commercial applications you get into the appropriate cooperation of overloads and their interrupting capacities. But that should not be a concern in residential..
        .
        A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

        1. WorkshopJon | Jul 14, 2008 11:00pm | #7

          Bill,

          Thanks for the quick reply.

          What I did awhile back was tapped into a 50 amp panel in my attached garage/workshop wired with 4 gauge cables from my main 200 amp panel to a ~25'  6 gauge run 40 amp panel in a detached building.  Tapped off of and fed into 40 amp breakers at both ends plus two 8' grounding rods outside the building hooked to that panel with 6 gauge, plus the ground from the pass though sub also hooked up to the tapped panel.

          A continuity check from the rods to my well/ground indicates they work.  My question is the extra sub panel pass through (tapped) ground just redundant (safer?) or dangerous?  ie. if the out building gets a lighting strike (I've had 3 to trees hit in 15 years...I live on a hill) am I better not to have that ground from the out building to the house connection, or do you think it's beneficial?

          WSJ

          Edited 7/15/2008 3:37 pm ET by WorkshopJon

          1. User avater
            BillHartmann | Jul 14, 2008 11:30pm | #8

            As for as lightning you never know. Just too unpredicatable.In general, probably the safest for lightning, is farm distribution style.Then you haave the service on a pole. Then feeders to the different buildings radial style.But again you never know..
            .
            A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

  2. woodturner9 | Jul 14, 2008 10:14pm | #4

    If the ground and neutral are tied together in the main panel,

    Bill gave a good explanation on the background, but I just wanted to add that WHERE the ground and neutral is tied together is decided by the local power utility.  It may be the service panel, may be the meter socket, might even be somewhere else - but they are the ones who decree where it will be.

    1. gfretwell | Jul 15, 2008 06:40am | #9

      "Bill gave a good explanation on the background, but I just wanted to add that WHERE the ground and neutral is tied together is decided by the local power utility. It may be the service panel, may be the meter socket, might even be somewhere else - but they are the ones who decree where it will be."Not true, the NEC says the main bonding jumper SHALL be in the service disconnect enclosure. You may be thinking of where the ground electrode conductor lands. That can be anywhere from the service disconnect to the service point (usually the service head).
      There will also be additional bonding in the meter base (the neutral lug is bolted to the can) and there are only 3 conductors upstream of that so everything is inherently bonded.
      The since 2002 NEC ignores any neutral to EGC bonding on the load side of the service disconnect. Actually the only time it would matter anyway is if the nipple from the meter base to the service disconnect enclosure was metal. A lot of AHJs want to see a PVC nipple for that reason but since 2002 or so they would have a hard time citing a violation.

      1. woodturner9 | Jul 15, 2008 03:10pm | #10

        Not true, the NEC says the main bonding jumper SHALL be in the service disconnect enclosure.

        That's actually consistent with what I said, and the practice of electric utilities.  The question is 'what is the service disconnect' - could be the main breaker in the service panel, could be the meter socket.  The meter socket is a service disconnect.

        It is true that the utility decrees where the common bond point will occur - and if you violate their statement, you won't pass inspection and they won't connect you to the grid.

        There will also be additional bonding in the meter base (the neutral lug is bolted to the can) and there are only 3 conductors upstream of that so everything is inherently bonded.

        That's one arrangement, but not the only one.  Local practice varies throughout the US - and again, the utility decrees how it is to be done, if you want to connect to the grid.

        There are different types of meter sockets.  The ones used in my area either isolate everything - so it's three wires in, three wires out - for utility A, or for utility B, which decrees that the meter socket is the common ground point, it's three wires in, four wires out.

        Best advice is to check with your local utility regarding what THEY require - because they won't hook you up if you don't meet their requirements.

        1. gfretwell | Jul 15, 2008 05:37pm | #11

          There might be a service disconnect in the meter socket enclosure (an all in one) but the meter socket is not the service disconnect.

          1. woodturner9 | Jul 15, 2008 06:37pm | #12

            There might be a service disconnect in the meter socket enclosure (an all in one) but the meter socket is not the service disconnect.

            No, the meter socket can be a service disconnect.  I've not seen a meter socket with a separate service disconnect, but they could be out there.

            As specified in NEC, a service disconnect is simply a means to disconnect the service.  It can be a fuse, a breaker, a meter socket - essentially anything that provides a method to disconnect service.  In the case of the meter socket, the service is disconnected by removing the meter.

          2. gfretwell | Jul 15, 2008 07:16pm | #13

            You will NEVER get an inspector to agree your meter socket is a disconnecting means, at least not a real inspector. Perhaps in a mobbed up place where the inspector works for bribes or some hick town where it is some mayor's idiot son in law you could.
            I agree the Fire Department MIGHT pull a meter under a load in an emergency but they are pretty reluctant to do that these days, now that arc flash training is part of the program.
            As I said in my top note, the PoCo usually bonds the neutral in the meter base but you have to bond it in the service disconnect enclosure by code. That is usually the main panel or a separate enclosure outside the house where the service entrance comes in. On the load side of the service disconnect neutrals and grounds are isolated. Up until 2008 there was an exception that made it legal to rebond the neutral if you went to a second building with a 3 wire feeder and no other metallic paths but that goes away as soon as your AHJ adopts the 2008

          3. woodturner9 | Jul 15, 2008 07:30pm | #14

            You will NEVER get an inspector to agree your meter socket is a disconnecting means, at least not a real inspector.

            Not sure where you live or work, but I assure you that inspectors have no trouble with this at all.  Granted, it's not all that common a situation, but in areas where the utilities do it that way, the inspectors have no trouble with it since it is NEC compliant.

          4. gfretwell | Jul 15, 2008 07:55pm | #15

            NEC compliant???
            How can you possibly say that is true?
            Cite it.
            Show me a listing for any meter base that says it is suitable as a disconnect.BTW the service disconnect is not the utilities area anyway., That belongs to the customer

            Edited 7/15/2008 12:56 pm ET by gfretwell

          5. User avater
            BillHartmann | Jul 15, 2008 08:05pm | #16

            "230.70 (B) Marking Each service disconnect shall be permanently marked to identify it as a service disconnect.""230.76 Manually or Power Operable
            The service disconnecting means for ungrounded service conductors shall consist of one of the following:(1) A manually operable switch or circuit breaker equipped with a handle or other suitable operating means(2) A power-operated switch or circuit breaker, provided the switch or circuit breaker can be opened by hand in the event of a power supply failure"Having to break a seal and in some case remove a clamp is hardly Handle Like."230.79 Rating of Service Disconnecting Means
            The service disconnecting means shall have a rating not less than the load to be carried, determined in accordance with Article 220. In no case shall the rating be lower than specified in 230.79(A), (B), (C), or (D)."Some use a meter socket that is rated for use as a disconnecting means..
            .
            A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

          6. woodturner9 | Jul 15, 2008 09:54pm | #17

            (1) A manually operable switch or circuit breaker equipped with a handle or other suitable operating means

            Having to break a seal and in some case remove a clamp is hardly Handle Like.

            I agree with you that it is not "handle like", but the utilities have been able to convince the regulating authority that it is "other suitable operation means".

          7. User avater
            BillHartmann | Jul 15, 2008 10:20pm | #18

            What about a UL listing for one being used as a disconect?.
            .
            A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

          8. woodturner9 | Jul 16, 2008 03:34pm | #20

            What about a UL listing for one being used as a disconect?

            Why would a service disconnect or a meter socket be UL listed?  UL is a private company that offers voluntary testing of primarily consumer products.  They test systems rather than components - so if they were to test the meter socket, they would test it with the meter, and might still not be willing to test it, since it is a component rather than a "system", by UL's parlance.

            Used to be most consumer products were UL listed, but I have noticed in the last several years a lot of products that are not UL listed.  Since it is not a requirement to have UL listing to sell a product, it appears companies are banking on the consumer misunderstandings about UL to save some money.

            Regarding the meter sockets, they are standard Square D sockets.  Used to be that the consumer bought them, but now the utility is supplying them.  They require that they be stamped with the utility company approval (It's a label that says something like "this meter socket is approved by XYZ power and light for connection to their system") which implies they may be doing some further testing.  I have a call into them to clarify what additional testing they do, but haven't gotten a response yet.

             

          9. User avater
            BillHartmann | Jul 16, 2008 04:23pm | #21

            "Why would a service disconnect or a meter socket be UL listed? UL is a private company that offers voluntary testing of primarily consumer products. They test systems rather than components - so if they were to test the meter socket, they would test it with the meter, and might still not be willing to test it, since it is a component rather than a "system", by UL's parlance."COMPLETE ####.First I want to make it clear that I an using UL Listed in the generic sense. UL has several different approval programs that List, Certify, and other approval programs. So while I might have used the list the product might have been approved under a different system than. And the code does not reuire UL approvals. It can be approved by other organization, but UL does 99% of them.Now here is what the code requires."110.1 Scope
            This article covers general requirements for the examination and approval, installation
            and use, access to and spaces about electrical conductors and equipment; enclosures
            intended for personnel entry; and tunnel installations.110.2 Approval
            The conductors and equipment required or permitted by this Code shall be acceptable
            only if approved.
            FPN:See 90.7, Examination of Equipment for Safety, and 110.3, Examination, Identification,
            Installation, and Use of Equipment. See definitions of Approved, Identified, Labeled, and Listed.110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment
            (A) Examination In judging equipment, considerations such as the following shall be
            evaluated:
            (1) Suitability for installation and use in conformity with the provisions of this Code
            FPN: Suitability of equipment use may be identified by a description marked on or provided with
            a product to identify the suitability of the product for a specific purpose, environment, or
            application. Suitability of equipment may be evidenced by listing or labeling.
            (2) Mechanical strength and durability, including, for parts designed to enclose and
            protect other equipment, the adequacy of the protection thus provided
            (3) Wire-bending and connection space
            (4) Electrical insulation
            (5) Heating effects under normal conditions of use and also under abnormal
            conditions likely to arise in service
            (6) Arcing effects
            (7) Classification by type, size, voltage, current capacity, and specific use
            (8) Other factors that contribute to the practical safeguarding of persons using or
            likely to come in contact with the equipment(B) Installation and Use Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in
            accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling."Approved. Acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction.""Identified (as applied to equipment). Recognizable as suitable for the specific purpose,
            function, use, environment, application, and so forth, where described in a particular
            Code requirement.
            FPN: Some examples of ways to determine suitability of equipment for a specific purpose,
            environment, or application include investigations by a qualified testing laboratory (listing and
            labeling), an inspection agency, or other organizations concerned with product evaluation.""Labeled. Equipment or materials to which has been attached a label, symbol, or other
            identifying mark of an organization that is acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction
            and concerned with product evaluation, that maintains periodic inspection of production
            of labeled equipment or materials, and by whose labeling the manufacturer indicates
            compliance with appropriate standards or performance in a specified manner.""Listed. Equipment, materials, or services included in a list published by an organization
            that is acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction and concerned with evaluation of
            products or services, that maintains periodic inspection of production of listed equipment
            or materials or periodic evaluation of services, and whose listing states that the
            equipment, material, or services either meets appropriate designated standards or has
            been tested and found suitable for a specified purpose.
            FPN: The means for identifying listed equipment may vary for each organization concerned with
            product evaluation, some of which do not recognize equipment as listed unless it is also labeled.
            Use of the system employed by the listing organization allows the authority having jurisdiction to
            identify a listed product."Now I quickly found 2 POCO's requirements for meter sockets.From Consumers Energy."Important information & requirements:
            òAll equipment must be UL listed and labeled"Niagra Mohawk pdf does not allow copy and paste, but it list 4 ANSI, UL, and NEMA standards and then stays that it must be approved and labeled by an AHJ accepted organization. How can they require this if the UL does not test COMPONENTS.And what about these COMPONENTS.I just went through my box of electrical parts and found breaker, raco box, Carlon plastic box, receptacles, GFCI, switches, and NM-B ALL WITH UL MARKIGNS.And what about thsi COMPONMENThttp://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/twist-on/twister.jsp"
            Twister¯ Wire Connector
            Twister
            Features * Exceptional wire range capacity - only three sizes to stock
            * Swept-wing design for comfort and greater leverage
            * Live-action, square-wire spring
            * Hexagonal shape allows connectors to be applied with standard nutdriver
            * No pre-twisting required
            * UL Listed and CSA Certified
            * Reusable
            * Shell rated for 105° C"And for NM cable connectors.http://www.arlcatalog.com/NM%20Cable/NM%20Cable%20Connectors%20Plated%20Steel.htm
            'They have a graphic of the UL symbol..
            .
            A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

          10. woodturner9 | Jul 16, 2008 07:52pm | #22

            I think was unclear in my post.  Let me try to clarify.

            UL tests "systems", to use their terminology.  So, if they test a breaker, for example, they test it in a particular service panel.  They will then rate the breaker for use in that panel, but NOT for use in some other (untested) panel or configuration.

            If I take a breaker to UL and ask them to test it, without providing a panel, they will say it is a component and they don't test components outside of a "system".  If I supply a "system" or "subsystem" they will test it.  So I can supply a service panel and breaker and they will test that as a subsystem, without requiring that I supply a house, a national electric grid, etc. :-)

            My thought (without having called UL to confirm, but based on prior experience having products UL certified), was that they would decline to test a meter socket by itself, but would probably agree to test it if the meter were supplied as well, but only for use with that meter.

            Hopefully that explanation clarified rather than confused :-)  There is some subjectivity with what they consider a system and a component, and I have found them willing to listen to reasonable arguments about why a particular product should be considered one or the other.

          11. User avater
            BillHartmann | Jul 16, 2008 08:28pm | #23

            It was interesting that you restricted it to a breaker which is part of a panel "system".But you ignored all of the examples that I gave of components.Such as a receptacle. Does it need to be tested with ever combination of a "system" that it can be part of with types of cables, different types of wire, different types and sizes of boxes, different type of coverplates, different types of cable/conduit connectors to said box.It quickly become 100,000 of combinations for one receptacle..
            .
            A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

          12. woodturner9 | Jul 17, 2008 04:37pm | #24

            Such as a receptacle. Does it need to be tested with ever combination of a "system" that it can be part of with types of cables, different types of wire, different types and sizes of boxes, different type of coverplates, different types of cable/conduit connectors to said box.

            I agree with you that UL's distinctions between "components" and "systems" seem arbitrary at times.  I can only speculate about why they will test a receptable as a component, but a breaker as a system.  My speculation would be simple practicality - it's not practical to test all the combinations of receptacles, boxes, wiring, etc. A breaker, however, can be readily tested for a small number of service panels.

            We've never been able to get a definitive answer from UL on that question.  When we submit something they say has to be tested as a system, sometimes we can convince them to test it as a component.  It seems to me that their component/system distinctions are a vague and "gray", but that is just my opinion.

          13. User avater
            BillHartmann | Jul 17, 2008 05:09pm | #25

            You are ignoring the orginal "problem".Meter sockets do have UL approvals..
            .
            A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

          14. woodturner9 | Jul 17, 2008 06:24pm | #26

            Meter sockets do have UL approvals.

            Do you have a particular meter socket in mind?  I've not found meter sockets with UL approvals - the ones we use around here don't have UL approval.

          15. User avater
            BillHartmann | Jul 17, 2008 10:25pm | #27

            Well as I SAID EARLIER and give you the names several POCO's have writen requirements that UL approved socket.And looking at the summary given by google there are many many more that do.But there are a few UL approved sockets.http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-51-meter-bases/general-duty-meter-socket-613650.aspxhttp://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-51-meter-bases/individual-socket-meter-650958.aspxhttp://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-51-meter-bases/meter-socket-horn-over-head-ug-654563.aspxhttp://kscdirect.com/item/MIL%2BU9701-RRL/MILBANK%2BMFG%2BCO_MILBANK%2B200AMP%2B3PH%2BUG%252FOH%2BMETER%2BSOCKET%2BLEVER%250Ahttp://www.doityourself.com/invt/1647809http://www.landisandgyr.com/NR/rdonlyres/6C11F9E6-F067-4A88-9359-0BE2884F742D/0/Pickett_NC_SC.pdf
            .
            .
            A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

          16. woodturner9 | Jul 17, 2008 11:58pm | #28

            Well as I SAID EARLIER and give you the names several POCO's have writen requirements that UL approved socket.

            What you posted earlier said UL listing was ONE option, not the ONLY option.

          17. User avater
            BillHartmann | Jul 18, 2008 12:18am | #29

            "
            From Consumers Energy."Important information & requirements:
            òAll equipment must be UL listed and labeled""Is that is ONE option and the ONLY option..
            .
            A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

          18. gfretwell | Jul 16, 2008 05:57am | #19

            Why is a utility even involved with the service disconnect in any way (beyond requiring one). The service disconnect belongs to the customer and that is where the NESC (the code utilities use) stops.

            Edited 7/15/2008 10:57 pm ET by gfretwell

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Outdoor Lighting

Lighting up an exterior isn't just about ambiance— it's also about code compliance. Here is what the code says about safety and efficiency when it comes to outdoor lighting.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Design and Build a Pergola
  • Podcast Episode 689: Basement Garages, Compact ERVs, and Safer Paint Stripper
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Are Single-Room ERVs the Answer?
  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data