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suggestions for deck materials

adirondacks | Posted in General Discussion on September 10, 2007 01:21am

Any suggestions on decking material? I am considering mahogany or composite. I found a good looking Timber Tech composite but I’ve heard it scratches easily. We have also looked at Rhino Deck and Symmatrix brands. Do they fade easily? Do they scratch easily?
Would real wood (mahogany) be a better choice? I want it to have a reddish-brown color and keep a beautiful appearance. Please advise.

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  1. plumbbill | Sep 10, 2007 02:38am | #1

    I'm a big IPE fan, but without treatment it will turn a nice silver.

    My neighbor has a jatoba that was sold under the name of brazillian redwood, coated with waterlox it has a beautifull red color.

    Bot of those woods are bullet proof, & you can forget about nailing them----- predrill & screw or a hidden fastener like eb-ty & other brands is a cadilac system.

    “If Fred Thompson runs... then I think that makes it easier for me to not run.”  Newt Gingrich

    1. JasonQ | Sep 10, 2007 07:14am | #4

      Generally, I believe the stuff sold as "Brazilian Redwood" is AKA massaranduba.  Bit different from jatoba, as I understand it.

      Jason

      1. plumbbill | Sep 10, 2007 08:22am | #5

        That is possible.

        I took a piece I had left over from my window sills to compare, I couldn't see any noticeable difference between the two.

        “If Fred Thompson runs... then I think that makes it easier for me to not run.”  Newt Gingrich

  2. peteshlagor | Sep 10, 2007 04:23am | #2

    My approach with a thin flexible concrete:

    http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=91581.1

    I get into the details about half way in...

     

  3. reinvent | Sep 10, 2007 05:32am | #3

    This is what Ipe looks like BTW.

  4. canoehead2 | Sep 12, 2007 07:32am | #6

    Another vote for Ipe!  It looks great and is super durable.  I stained mine with Messmer's UV Plus for Hardwoods.

    But...  It is very hard to work with.  You need to predrill holes.  Also the end are susceptible to checking so end seal them well with wax end sealer.

    Ipe is so strong that you need really good fasteners to hold down any warping.  I attached my Ipe to my deck joists with 3" (yup!) stainless screws (screws had special threads that are supposed to hold extra tight - forget name).  The were counter sunk and I glued in plugs.  I used TiteBond III glue which is still holding after 3 years except where the plugs are exposed to full sun and rain (my deck is mostly covered).  Epoxy might have been better (but messy with the potential to ruin the decking with a drip).

    Ipe is also very stiff.  On 24" joist spacing I used 1/2" Ipe boards and this is fine (just a little bit of bounce).  On the last issue I had to convince the building inspector that the joist spacing and Ipe thickness was OK - she hadn't even heard of Ipe.

    Finally, I did this in Ottawa, Canada and the Ipe is holding up fine to the winters along with all the road salt and sand.  It scratches a bit but hardly shows.

    You'll need to restain every 1 to 2 years to preserve the nice brown colour.  I think this is because Ipe doesn't absorb stains well.

     



    Edited 9/12/2007 12:32 am ET by canoehead2

  5. dukeofwsu | Sep 12, 2007 08:08am | #7

    Plastic all the way. No, its not as nice as ipe, but a deck is not fine furniture, no matter how well you build it. It sits outside, it gets walked on, beaten up and misused. In most climates, you get only part of the year to enjoy it, why bother cleaning and finishing a very nice wood deck when you can hose off your plastic trex and have a nice labor free summer?

    1. peteshlagor | Sep 12, 2007 04:54pm | #8

      Because here in Denver, the heat gain from the sun makes the use of plastic decks near impossible.  One cannot walk on them barefoot.

       

  6. BryanSayer | Sep 12, 2007 05:15pm | #9

    Ipe, and use Penofin finish.

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