I’ll be starting a big trim project in a couple of weeks and wanted to survey you guys to see what you use for filling nail holes. In the past I’ve used painters caulk, but I don’t like how much it shrinks. Usually, I’d have to hit it twice because of the shrinkage. I then use body filler for the larger holes from screws, etc. Ideally, I’d like a product that can be pressed in with fingers, one coat, wouldn’t need to be sanded, won’t shrink and will take paint well. This is an interior trim job using poplar. I’m planning on filling the holes before priming and then checking my work before painting.
Reading other posts it looks like some favor Elmers Wood Filler, Sherwin Williams 66 putty, Crawfords and Muralo Interior Spackle. What I’m not sure of is if these products need to be sanded or if there are any bleed issues. Others say, “Light weight first, prime, check, then wood filler”. What’s “light weight”? How’s it different from “wood filler”? Obviously I’m not familiar with any of these products, but I do know that there has to something better out there than the painters caulk I’m currently using.
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1110d
You are using caulk? that might be your first problem. I've never used it (except in an exterior emergency). Most times I'll use one of the lite fillers (dap for instance). Sort of an air entrained nail filler, doesn't shrink much for nails-but for screws (finish) you might want to build it up or expect two applications. Takes paint well, dries pretty quick and with some touch-you'll fill finish nail holes quick with little buildup and only a wipe down w/sandpaper to smooth out.
For screw holes that are deep-I mix up some Durabond 20 (or longer), pack it in and sand when dry. Little shrinkage.
I've used bondo (epoxy) and there's a stick combo that you kneed the 2 parts-meant for wood-works well, but a bit messy to work with.
Elmers has a colored fill-that works too.
Caulk huh? never heard of that.
Hey 1110d, As Calvin noted, you definitely do not want to use caulk. You'll never get it to fill completely and if you do it will be overfilled and can't be sanded. Plus it takes finish differently from the wood causing "flashing." Caulk is for cracks and gaps. A good wood filler is invisible after the paint goes on. I like the Elmer's wood filler. It works like vinyl spackle, but dries harder so it can be used to fill edges as well as holes in flat stock. I apply it with a flexible putty knife to flat stock and use my finger for profiles. A quick pass with a sanding sponge or paper and it's flush.
I've gone the painters caulk route in the past, and agree it can be pretty terrible. I have been using zar latex wood patch lately. It comes in a toothpaste like tube. You can squeeze some out and apply with your fingers like caulk, and wipe smooth with a damp rag. Or let dry and sand.
almost all professional painters would use rather ordinary white spackle.
I'm a remodeler, but I do all my own stain and paint using the best techniques of the painters I've used in the past and while anything from autobody filler to toothpaste will fill the hole, nothing beats spackle. The pink dap stuff sold at HD that turns white when dry is good.
A guy who is painting trim almost every day develops a technique of adding just a little extra above each hole so that when it shrinks (and all fillers will shrink) it's not low yet allows excess to be easily sanded off.
Personally I like to fill all nail holes as I finish each room with a quick coat level with the surface that I know will shrink down, and finish with a second coat before painting. The first coat is put on and excess is simply wiped off with a damp rag - super quick and it makes the second coat much easier to apply.
After the first coat of paint is on if a nail hole needs a little extra the better painters I've worked with use the red autobody spot filler. As a general rule if a surface is already painted then for shallow depressions the spot putty/filler is used since it sticks to old or new paint well.