This house has a crawl space with an inch on cement covering a fairly fine sandy base. Water not only comes in through a corner of the foundation when we have heavy rains but the water table also pushes its way up to the crawl space floor. At a low spot in the floor I broke through the cement to put in a sump to get rid of the standing water. Now Id like to dig a hole in this low spot, stick an automatic pump in a five gallon plastic bucket, drill holes in the bucket, surround it with some filter cloth, surround the whole deal with several inches of pebbles and remortar the floor to the lip of the bucket. Is this the way to handle this or what? Appreciate any input. Dan
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Use something bigger than a 5 gal. bucket, or your pump (if it even fits) will cycle too often. I used half of a 45 gal (CDN = 55 gal US) plastic barrel for my basement sump hole and it works fine.
Thanks. What about holes in the side and where do you get these larger recepticles? Dan
The barrels are widely available here (Ontario, Canada) at u-brew establishments (they are used to ship malt). Depending upon supply and demand, they range from free to $10 (CDN -- about $6.50 US). They are commonly used to support floating docks and swimming rafts in out area and the demand for them fluctuates with the seasons. The one I actually used for my sump hole was an olive barrel (used for importing olives) -- I think I got it for a buck at an auction sale. Olive barrels have a large lid, so you can use only the bottom half for a sump hole -- I used the top half to contain my horse radish patch in the garden -- but I digress. Olive barrels are stronger than malt barrels when cut in half because of the deep ridges moulded into them (probably to withstand being rolled on their sides).
Your other ideas re. holes, stone, etc. seemed fine so I did not comment on them. I drilled 3/4" holes 4 to 6" apart in the sides and backfilled the hole with gravel into which I plan to run some sub-slab drainage pipes when I get the time. I seem to recall using a forstner bit -- but I may have ended up using a step bit. Either a jigsaw or rotozip tool work well for cutting the barrel.
My sump is deep enough to suppoprt the pump on an 8" concrete block -- so it has plenty of capacity should I want to lower the pump in the future.
They make special sump crocks for this purpose. Probably better than a 5 gallon bucket. Deeper, too.
If Olivia Newton-John married Wayne Newton, then divorced him to marry Elton John, she'd be Olivia Newton-John Newton John.
Im in VA. Where would I get a crock and would it allow the ground water under the crawl space floor to enter as well as whats above? Thanks for your tips that 5 gals. is too small. Dan
Don't know exactly where you could get one. I'd start by talking to local plumbers and lumberyards. Possibly even the big boxes would carry them. Drive defensively. Buy a tank.
Around wet construction sites, especially in the Florida rainy season, pumps keep the job going. Sometimes it is a 24 hr a day job as a small crew keeps the pumps going at night. The weapon of choice is a 1/3 HP sump pump with a mercury bulb float. The mercury floats, one without a mechanical arm, are generally better for rough treatment.
With this goes a 5, or even better a 7 gal, bucket with 3/4" holes bored into the sides, it sucks up too much sand if you put holes in the bottom, and panty hose or poly mesh stretched over the bucket to help keep sand out. The whole assembly is at the end of a poly, it floats, rope and the unit, if your smart, is plugged into a GFI outlet.
For up to 12 hrs a night and working by flashlight we, a crew of three, would make rounds of the construction site. With rubber boots, rain gear and shovels we would clear the sump holes where the buckets would sit and move pumps around to keep the form works as free of water as possible.
I agree with using something bigger than a five gallon bucket.
If your going to poke holes into I would also get what we call some "wash stone" around your pit. Wash Stone = Round stone with little or no fines that way the water can find the pit easier and get ejected.
If you want to be really good you dig your pit, place down some filter fabric lets water in and keeps fines out, so they don't plug up your holes, then put in pit add wash stone around it and finish
luck to da project
Thanks. Thats the way I thought it should work. Any suggestions on something easy to find larger than a sheetrock bucket? Dan
Dan, check the big orange box. You might actually need to find a person who works there, good luck. It gets worse - they actually have to be assigned to the plumbing department, and have more than two brain cells. Really, good luck. Around where they have the perforated pipe, and/or the sump pumps, they should have a large black (ABS?) plastic basin for this purpose. It'll be maybe 2 foot diameter, and 3 foot deep.
EDIT: Link to Home Depot to give you ideas:
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/prodmeta/pg_prodmeta.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=Products_1%2fPlumbing_1565%2fPumps_1396%2fPump+Parts_6357%2fSump+Parts_1358%2fSump+Basins
If everything seems to be going well, you've obviously overlooked something.
Edited 3/20/2003 2:14:57 PM ET by Mr. Pita
Thanks for the tip. Home Depot does have it- 15"x24" sump pump liner. Already ordered it. Thanks
If you can't find a commercial sump pump can then look for a plastic garbage can.
Thanks. Found it at Home Depot. Basically a plastic pail for 20 bucks. Im happy. Now I just have to do it!
Dan, I did the EXACT same remedy....in my cellar It was still working 12yrs later (sold the house since)
Thanks Ed. Thats good to hear. Did you use something larger than a 5 gal. bucket? Dan
One more ting to add to everyone's input. buy a "moisture censor" and install the maximum water line. this will sound ann alarm to let you know the sump is not working. Have you ever seen/smelled a home where the sump pump has stopped working and the downstairs or basement has backed up? Get my point?
Thanks. I'll do it.