Replies

1. 
   DanH | Jun 12, 2006 05:14am | #1

   A the very least you should add ducts to bring the heat down to floor level. Otherwise the ceiling will be warm and that's about it.

   Other options are in-floor heating elements (electric or hot water) and various types of radient and space heaters.

   Decent insulation in the walls is important, as is sealing any air leaks around the sill.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
1. 
   DanH | Jun 12, 2006 05:21am | #2

   I should add that a zoned system is far better. It's really not all that difficult technically to zone a system, if the existing ductwork is halfway reasonable (or the space is unfinished).
   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

2. 
   experienced | Jun 12, 2006 06:19am | #3

   Add the extra ducting as DanH said. Be sure it's decently designed then installed.

   A few electric baseboard heaters can usually do the trick for periods when the t'stat upstairs is satisfid but the basement needs a bit of heat. If this area is for children only,  a programmable one will help save by bringing it up to the desired temps only when the kids are in the room (after school, weekends, etc).

1. 
   UDublin | Jun 12, 2006 05:16pm | #4

   Thanks. I've thought about baseboard heating and the only thing holding me back is the appearance. Are there any better looking options out there?

1. 
   Aaron | Jun 13, 2006 07:41pm | #17

   Electric fireplace?

   I like these for baseboard heating:

   http://www.air-n-water.com/product/HBB1254.html

   You can also get them in 120V versions.

   Aaron

1. 
   BryanSayer | Jun 13, 2006 09:31pm | #18

   I was also going to suggest that if the original poster went with electric baseboard that he should get fluid filled ones. They are far less noisy and seem to supply more even heat.But I have to say I have a $40 plug in one for our attic which we put away in the summer, and it works fine.There are also electric 'stoves' that work ok and are nicer to look at. They have done amazing things with "fake" fire.

3. 
   DDay | Jun 12, 2006 06:09pm | #5

   Do you have Gas or oil for fuel?  For gas, there are all kinds of ductless gas stoves you could put anywhere, most are not much money

1. 
   DanH | Jun 12, 2006 06:14pm | #6

   Which may or may not be legal in your area.
   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

1. 
   DDay | Jun 12, 2006 06:19pm | #7

   True.  Most basements you will have the ability to vent.  A stove would be my first choice if you don't have a boiler for your heating.  If there was a boiler, I would just run a loop of baseboard (hot water).  I would not do electic baseboard, that stuff is like a toaster, and will kids, I don't like it.  I've seen several places where furniture has been burned by the heating element.

1. 
   DanH | Jun 12, 2006 07:48pm | #8

   Electric baseboard doesn't get hot enough to burn anything, though of course the heat from anything isn't good for wood finishes.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

2. 
   pizza | Jun 12, 2006 11:53pm | #9

   If you run a loop of hotwater heat in the basement-does it detract much from the efficiency of the already-sized furnace? Does the heater even care that another loop has been added because the thermostat is really only measuring upstairs temps?

1. 
   DanH | Jun 13, 2006 12:39am | #10

   If you have a hot water system, the ideal thing would be to convert to a zoned system, with two thermostats. Simple in theory, but I don't have enough practical experience with hot water systems to say how simple in practice.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

2. 
   DDay | Jun 13, 2006 02:40am | #13

   I know a good amount having worked for a friend in HVAC a number of times. 

   If you are adding a loop to a basement then you already have the rest of the house on an existin thermostat or more.  When you add the new loop for the basement you would just set it up off its own thermostat and zone valve or pump whichever you are using.  If it were an existing house, you can zone it off.  This could be fairly easy or very difficult, it depends on how it it piped and the access you have to the piping. 

3. 
   UDublin | Jun 13, 2006 03:08am | #14

   My existing system is gas. The basement is unfinished now, so there is access to everything. Any specific recommedations?

4. 
   DanH | Jun 13, 2006 03:55am | #15

   Have an HVAC guy come in and give you an estimate to zone the furnace.
   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

5. 
   DDay | Jun 13, 2006 04:04am | #16

   I would go with the zone dampers, that would be the cheapest and work well.  You should have enough of a furnace to zone it.  If not, you could alway add a small gas furnace for just the basement, most gas equipment isn't as expensive as their oil counterparts.

   Most around here use Honeywell zone dampers

    

   Edited 6/12/2006 9:05 pm ET by DDay

3. 
   experienced | Jun 13, 2006 01:25am | #12

    I've seen several places where furniture has been burned by the heating element.

   We don't push our furniture up against gas stoves, furnaces or boilers, wood stoves and fireplaces, do we? It's not the baseboard; it's the user.

2. 
   experienced | Jun 13, 2006 01:21am | #11

   ductless gas stoves

   You do not want to put these in a house and especially where children are playing and growing. These units are not allowed anywhere in Canada.