Replies

1. 
   calvin | May 13, 2014 06:22am | #1

   Richardi

   1/4" steel plate.

   I normally use a couple of 1/4" x 4" flat steel on cantilevers of up to 20" overhangs.  The flat stock is run back onto the cabinet ( let into the top frame of the cab to be flush with the cab top).  In essence, when the counter is placed, it holds that plate "down" while the plate supports the overhanging portion of the counter.

   With your leg set back from the counter end edge 12-14" and the plate back on the cab about a foot, you'd want a plate 2' wide by 45" long.

   Paint it white after grinding the edges so nothing is sharp.

   edit:  since you're supported by the post on the end, you probably could just lay up on the cabinet end,forget running it back in.

1. 
   richardi | May 13, 2014 06:51am | #2

   1/4" steel plate

   Calvin -

   Thanks for the suggestion. However, as you can see, the countertop is already installed. Also there is a drawer where the plate would lie in/on the cabinet

   I suppose I wouldn't get the same upport if I mounted a piece of angle iron on the side of the cabinet.

   Richad

1. 
   sapwood | May 13, 2014 11:36am | #3

   This would have been much simpler had you had contractors who could actually think.

   Adapting Calvin's solution is easy. Use a steel post to which a steel plate is welded onto one end. The plate needs to be large enough to accomodate that 12" rule. Then, in order to get the thing under the top, it must be adjustable in height. So, you need another plate the same size that will sit on top of the first one. Drill and tap about eight holes for 1/4 or 5/16" thread into the lower/welded plate. Use short bolts in these holes to push the upper plate upwards so that it fully contacts the countertop. Use some construction adhesive to make sure it all stays in place. 

   The bottom of the leg/support must also be affixed so that when someone kicks it, it won't move. 

1. 
   DanH | May 13, 2014 08:02pm | #5

   I'd suggest just a socket for the post, so the assembly isn't so awakward and it's easier to cut the post to fit.  Put the adjustment as a screw foot in the bottom of the post, or somehow incorporate it into the socket.

2. 
   calvin | May 13, 2014 07:22pm | #4

   Richardi

   I'm surprised the cab installer didn't see this coming.  More amazed the counter templater didn't advise.  Must have been a first time for these guys .  Stone, they don't like to see more than 10-12 inches unsupported, corian 12.  Quartz won't warrant 14 and up.

   I'd take sap's version.  Get the parts welded or screwed together, shim as necessary.

   Best of luck.

   As an aside, how'd your heating work out?

2. 
   finefinish | May 18, 2014 12:33am | #6

   Hey Richard, It seems to me that one leg would be more awkward looking and less funtional than 2 legs - one at each corner.  Two legs would still allow seating at the three sides, but without the odd-looking single leg no?  Also, even if you do end up supporting the overhang with the one leg and some steel, will you be able to sleep at night knowing people do crazy things after we leave their houses, like climb up on that projecting corner and jump up and down like on a trampoline when a mouse runs by.  To me, I think the aesthetics and ease of installation of 2 legs would win out every time in this situation.