In ripping out this basement ceiling I found this cut off joist. May be hard to tell from the pic, but if the joist was extended, its right side would hit near the centerline of the tub drain. (There’s still a bit of the old wooden ceiling to remove, some of which extends over the concrete basement wall. ) How would you recommend fixing this?
Also found that there is no P trap on the tub, though apparently the rubber drain hose must function as one, as there weren’t odor problems. Fixing that may be another thread (sigh).
Thanks.
Replies
Hard to tell from the pic. but couldn't you just header it off.
Run from adjacent wall to next joist.
There's no reason to support both ends of a floor joist, especially under a tub. Just ask any plumber.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
What is that, a 4x12 joist 24" or greater on center? It looks like the hole above the adjoining wall for pipes to pass through leaves at least one floorboard unsupported there as well.
How about a nice fat post or, if floor space is at a premium, a sturdy pilaster and a beefy corbel with diagonal brace?
Sounds like a dinner special: "a sturdy pilaster and a beefy corbel"
Sorry...could resist.PaulB
"Sounds like a dinner special: "a sturdy pilaster and a beefy corbel"LOL!BruceT
Looks like one we fixed a while back. Except all the joists had rotted and were hanging. Couldn't replace them all so we sistered onto the ones we couldn't. New tile job above hasn't cracked yet (knock on wood).
What we need here are some wider pictures so we can see what the options really are.
-- J.S.
>> Also found that there is no P trap on the tub, though apparently the rubber drain hose must function as one, as there weren't odor problems. <<
"Rubber drain hose" :-) must be the uphill slope on it that makes it function as a P trap....
Looks like the tile guy who plumbed my house worked on yours as well!
A wider shot would help to see what other obstructions might in your way...... but if you've got room, double the joists to either side of the one that's been cut. Then you can header that one off and hang it on your doubles.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Pp, Qq
Thanks for the replies, here a couple more pics that 'might' help.The joists are old full dimension 2x6's, 16" on center. That's a closet in the corner, with the DWV stack and a hot water heater. I understand headering the cut joist. If I double the joists on either side, do they need to run the full width of the room? If not, how long?Thanks.
Looks like one is already doubled for you, with a post under it.
You didn't say what the span is, but I'd run the whole length anyway.
I've never seen sky hooks in actual use. Cool!
Actually it looks like it has been that way for awhile, I thing you could get away without doubleing the joists.
Is anyone else bothered by the fact that the next joist - the doubled one that carries the load for its truncated neighbor and is apparently compromised in the middle, thus needing a post - is resting on what seems to be just a 4x4 header over that window? BruceT
Edited 5/11/2008 11:42 pm by brucet9
Yes, I see that the "beam" end is setting over the window head without an obvious header. I also see a lot of water/moisture damage. It appears that this old house is in need of lots of help!
The plumbing of the tub with no trap and polycoil drain line is an indicator of the finese and knowledge of the workman that last assaulted the building. I bet before it is rehabbed that there will be lots more "Rube Golberg" attemps at repairs and remodeling to be found.
.....Iron Helix