Replies

1. 
   jonblakemore | Jul 23, 2002 05:22am | #1

   Phil,

   If I understand you correctly, there is drywall on the cathedral wall on the LR side.  This would be almost for sure non load bearing, but do check.  There will probably be studs from the joist (or maybe from the top plate) of the wall to the rafters (assuming stick built and no trusses) but this is most likely just for the drywall.  You should be able to tell fairly easily if the wall is supposed to carry any weight by the construction of the stud wall.  If they are just face nailed into the ceiling joist and the rafter, then no weight of consequence is on them.

   As to the header and support, if it's non-bearing, don't worry.   A 2x6 header would be plenty (overkill).  Most partition walls have a 2x4 on the flat just to serve as a nailer for the casing/drywall.  No support should be necessary on a partition during the work. 

   Wires will shock you, plumbing could spray you, so cut an inspection chase (perpendicular to the studs) and peek in.  Ductwork is the biggest problem, but nothing in the wall is insurmoutable. I would make the top 6'8", especially if there is a doorway close- it's a good idea to keep things on the same level.

   Good luck.

   Jon Blakemore
1. 
   PatchogPhil | Jul 23, 2002 07:01am | #2

   Jon,  thanks for the reply.  Good point about the 6'8" height -  there is a doorway within a foot of the proposed opening.   There won't be any ducts nor pipes in that wall.  I do figure there "might" be wiring,  so I will be careful when cutting.  I'll start with the drywall first. 

   Thanks again,

   Phil

2. 
   Davo304 | Jul 23, 2002 09:01am | #3

   Hi Phil,

   John gave you some good advice about heights and such.

   Do just cut the drywall out between the stud bays first so you you can be sure there are no wires or anyything else "hidden" to contend with.

   If the wall is not load bearing, then a 2x header nailed on the flat will do just fine. Keeping your new opening height the same as your nearby door height is definately the way to go. Remember when cutting these studs to cut them about 2-1/2 inches above your intended "finish" height. This will allow you enough room to install your 1-1/2 inch thick, ( 2x) header (nailed flat) plus allow you to install 3/4 inch thick jamb liner casings. The 1/4 inch left over will give you room for shimming the head jamb casing level. You should employ the same practice when determining where to cut your studs at the bottom as well. Allow room for a rough sill and a finished sill.

   Unless the current width of your existing wall is  5-1/2 inches thick, nailing a 2x6 for your rough header is not advisable. You only need to frame your new opening to the same width of your actual wall. Most walls built from 2x4 studs and 1/2 inch drywall on each side measure out to a width of 4-1/2 inches. If this is the case with you, rip your 2x6 down to 4-1/2, and make sure header is flush with outside face of drywall on each side. Header will be your nailer for your trim casing.

   You can trim out the new opening the same as your existing doors and windows to match...the only difference being (If you want it this way) is to have your finshed sill casing  be wider than a normal window sill so that you can use this as a shelf/table for setting down drinks or food on this pass thru.

   I personally like to trim out a pass thru window with matching wood casing on both sides of the opening...this would mean removing any ceramic tile on the kitchen side that would interfere with installing the casing and then cut and re-set these tile pieces to fit where needed. But you do it any way you like.

   Good luck on your project.

   Davo

1. 
   PatchogPhil | Jul 23, 2002 03:18pm | #4

   Thanks Davo.  All good advice.

   Phil