I will be setting rebar in footers next week. The engineered drawings call for #5 bent rebar – 9″ short leg transverse in footer x 39″ rising straight out of footer, with about 30″ above the top of the footer.
How do I keep the rebar from rotating over prior to the pour?
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
I usually put a 2x4 on edge and toe nail it to the cleats. About every 4 to 6 feet I put a cleat from the top of the 2x4 down to the top of footing. You have to tie every bar to the 2x4. Good luck because they usually move around.
"hot dip" em.
you do want to have em lined up straight though which works best if you have something like the 2x4 mentioned already. No keyway is spec'd? usually we've placed our keyway material, and then used that for our guide for "hot dipping" em. saves you a lot of time tieing em up.
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Haga su trabajo de fricken
I use rebar, above the footing, to tie all the extended ends.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
No keyway - just the rebar to tie footer to foundation. Looks like I will set cleats across the footer, nail 2x4s to the cleats, and tie the long floppy leg of the rebar off to the 2x4s. Thanks all for the pics and ideas.
The ironworkers on the jobs I worked in the 70's would tie a lateral section of rebar across the pieces sticking up above the pour. This kept them in place until the concrete set. The lateral could then be removed.
Two #4 bars, one at the bottom two inches from the short leg. Then one at the top ,out of the pour. Brace one end for rack.The bent dowels won't shift or rotate and you can reuse the top #4 again.If you only tie a top bar the dowels could rotate.
Easiest done on a pair of trestles,then dropped into the trench with two people.
mike
I came across a product - Kodi Klips - in a recent issue of JLC. I thought these looked promising as a quick method to secure a piece of rebar to the top of the uprights to prevent racking of the assembly. Has anyone used this product? They (Kodi Klips web site) show two distributors in my area. I will take a look at them on Tuesday if in fact they are carried locally.
The inspector here would not approve rebar if it was not tied into the forms. No "hot dipping" the hooks. No one here ties rebar to temporary lumber either, we all tie the hooks to a long horizontal piece above the footing as others have described. You can probably just leave that piece in place and form the walls around it. Another option is to just form the whole thing at once and then monopour it. There's plenty of rebar to keep everything straight if you do that.