I tackled for the very first time hanging a susp ceiling. Everything looked great with the grid. I used a small square and checked for square within the grid, seemed fine. Until I went to put in the panels last night. In some of the 2×2 squares on the grid the panels drop right in. In others they don’t and I am having to push them down. In so doing I thought it was still ok until I looked and saw that my grid is out of square a bit in places which the tiles are showing.
If I look at some of the tiles it’s tight against the main runner or a cross tee and as it goes along that same tee or runner a gap between the tile and lap of the tile begins to show, as much as 1/8″. So somehow my grid got out of square. It looks like my whole grid needs to shift to one side to square it back up but I can’t do that without cutting the tees that abut the wall (I made them tight to the wall molding)because they seem to be prevening it from shifting over. Is this likely the cause or did I maybe do something else wrong? I’m not sure how to fix it. I tried taking one of the tees out to trim it but it’s the Armstrong grid and once they go in they lock and I can’t figure out how to get it to unlock so I can get the tee out.
Replies
but I can't do that without cutting the tees that abut the wall (I made them tight to the wall molding)
There's your error. And that's what you'll have to do to correct it. The whole grid is supposed to be able to move around a little.
I like to measure diagonals on a suspended ceiling to check for square. The larger the diagonal you can measure, the more accurate you will be.
Do this before you get all the frid up.
Also, if you are cutting the tees tight to the wall angle, you may have inadvertantly shifted things out of square. Take those pieces down, and re-cut them.
When you begin a suspended ceiling you have to establish square lines. You need two lines,one at each perpendicular wall. This also will be the cut line.The opposite walls the tees or main runner will be cut 1/8" or so short.Easiest way to establish square is on the floor and then plumb up.Use tape on finished floors for your marks.
Plumb up, pull lines from under ceiling moldings. Cut to the line. Hanging wire should be nearly plumb, slightly pulling the mains tight to one wall.
If you are square the tiles will drop in without fussing. The lights will also.Add extra wire at each corner of the light if there is none within 12".
Now you may be able to square up the ceiling without redoing everything.First remove or hang up the light fixtures above the grid.Remove all tiles.Remove the last tees you put in.Pull a line across the room to check your mains to make sure they are in a straight line.This line should be under the tees and to one edge of the tees.Now you can see if any mains need to be cut or moved out.If you move a main out, clamp one side and pop rivet the other. If possible only cut the long mains, eliminates pop rivets.Then temporarily place six or so full tiles in the field. If the grid squares up, you can finis the ceiling. If not then you will have to recut one side of the tees.Then square on the floor ,plumb up etc.
In small almost square rooms the grid is cut loose and the tile will square it up.Providing the room is close to square.
mike
This room measures 7'6" wide x 33' 6" long. and it's not square. It has only two main runner beams, the rest is just 4' cross tees and 2' ones. It was a hard room to work in and trying to divide the room up so you have equal width tiles was a nightmare but I ultimately found the best way to do that. It's just I need to square up the grid some.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
I imagine your perimeter tiles are 21" wide.Make sure your cut tees are in a straight line, the two mains are cut so that the first tiles measure square across the diagonals. Then the rest of the room will square up.Use a fine line to cut the tees in.I use jet line or braided black fishing line. Jet line is the line electricians shoot thru conduit to pull wire thru. Braided fishing line is fine.I think you may have cut the grid in too tight too allow the grid to square up.Cut a bit off any of the tees that are tight against the wall opposite of the cut in tees.
mike
You should be able to lift the t's to the wall enough to get your snips in there and cut the flat finished surface. First cut down from the top the T on the diagonal. Snip the flat finished part from each side-wiggle around to separate.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
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Not sure how you see that as a Nightmare. Leaves you perfect 9inch borders on all 4 sides! If you had that much trouble with that your really gonna be screwed when you actually run up on something that really is a nightmare
WillieWonka
I never trust going off the floor 90% of the time the walls are not Plumb.
Mike4244
Lift the free end and wiggle while gently pulling out of the slot to remove the tee. Sometimes a sharp awl will help. The nib on the tee on the far side of the tab is depresses as you pull out.
I like to measure diagonals on a suspended ceiling to check for square. The larger the diagonal you can measure, the more accurate you will be. Do this before you get all the frid up.
You should be able to lift the t's to the wall enough to get your snips in there and cut the flat finished surface. First cut down from the top the T on the diagonal. Snip the flat finished part from each side-wiggle around to separate.