Replies

1. 
   BUIC | Oct 23, 2006 07:22am | #1

    Yes, there is ceiling grid and tile that is exterior rated. 

     Exterior as in under a porch or overhang.

     It's used all the time on commercial work.

     Buic

2. 
   scrumseeker | Oct 23, 2006 01:17pm | #2

   Most of the porches I work on these days use vinyl soffit material for the ceiling.

   Some varieties (sp?) mimic the look of t&g beaded board.   It is a relatively inexpensive material,  maintenance free,  easy to work with,  and looks a lot better than a drop ceiling would IMHO.

1. 
   Heck | Oct 23, 2006 10:18pm | #8

   Tell me , can the vinyl soffitt be installed directly to 2' on center framing?

   Does it hold up?_______________________________________________________________

   I'm diagonally parked in a parallel universe

1. 
   scrumseeker | Oct 24, 2006 02:33am | #9

   I would run wood lathe perpendicular to the joists @ 16" on center (or tighter depending on your joist length.   I think it comes in 12' lengths. We usally run the material perpendicular to the house which means we need a nailing suface running parallel to the house for proper fastening.

   My experience with vinyl soffit is that it holds up very well. 

1. 
   Heck | Oct 24, 2006 02:43am | #10

   Kinda what I thought. Thanks for the reply._______________________________________________________________

   I'm diagonally parked in a parallel universe

2. 
   slimn | Oct 24, 2006 03:07am | #12

   Now that seems like a good solution. Do you just butt the ends of the soffit or is there someting lke a tongue and groove arrangement available ?

   Thanks

2. 
   DaveRicheson | Oct 24, 2006 10:42pm | #17

   You want to use a ceiling panel, not soffit panels. Most alum./vinyl supply house carry the correct system, but I don't believe I have ever seen it in a big box store.

   The ceiling systems can be installed on 2' centers. Butts are terminated in a T channel for runs over 12'. All edges are in F or J channel, or by additional brake work. You may still want to add furring stips to most existing framing because it makes it easier to shim for a level (flat) ceiling plane.

    

   Dave

1. 
   Heck | Oct 25, 2006 12:59am | #18

   Gotcha, thanks.

   I would want to apply stripping to be able to turn the panels at a right angle to the house anyway._______________________________________________________________

   "Don't rush me, sonny. You rush a miracle man, you get rotten miracles" -Miracle Max

1. 
   slimn | Oct 27, 2006 05:24am | #19

   Why at right angle to the house. Is it for looks or  am i missing something? My joists run perpendicular to the house that means an extra step of installing furrings?

2. 
   Heck | Oct 27, 2006 05:33am | #20

   It will take furring, but I wouldn't mind closer spacing.

   It's for looks, and there wouldn't be any end joints

   But I might decide to run 'em the other way, haven't totally decided.This is for a wrap around porch, different width porches coming together, I'll do whatever looks best._______________________________________________________________

   Under penalty of law this tagline to be removed only by consumer

3. 
   DanH | Oct 23, 2006 01:25pm | #3

   The problem is wind. Anything you use must be secured against uplift.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
1. 
   DaveRicheson | Oct 23, 2006 01:40pm | #4

   The problem with wind can be solved by using butterfly clips on the grid behind the panels. There are also panels made for exterior and high moisture areas. Most are a vinyl cover drywall type  and weigh about the same as fire code drywall of equal size (not much help to you frail bones). The other problem with exterior grid systems is rust. The grid is steel, and even though it is painted, over time it will rust. Might take several years buts it will happen, and there goes your maintenance free ceiling.

   As someone mentioned a vinyl porch ceiling system would be easier to install, maintenance free, and last much longer.

    

   Dave

1. 
   DanH | Oct 23, 2006 02:04pm | #5

   With a wire-suspended ceiling you also need spacers to hold the grid down.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Oct 23, 2006 10:06pm | #7

   2x2 metal stud with a flang bent on the end and screwed to a joist or rafter. Loose end wedged against the main tees. I've also used 1/2 emt flattened on one end for the screw and slotted on the other to slip over the mains.

    

   Dave

2. 
   slimn | Oct 24, 2006 03:09am | #13

   wind ? why I didnt I think about that. Thanks

1. 
   DanH | Oct 24, 2006 04:51am | #14

   I only thought of it because I've seen a couple of commercial jobs where the wind tore up a suspended ceiling. These were heavier duty deals (drive-under canopies) and the theory was that the materials used were heavy enough to prevent wind damage. That was the theory.
   Seven blunders of the world that lead to violence: wealth without work, pleasure without conscience, knowledge without character, commerce without morality, science without humanity, worship without sacrifice, politics without principle. --Mahatma Gandhi

1. 
   slimn | Oct 24, 2006 05:17pm | #15

   Wow!

   Thats deep man. Great qoutation.

2. 
   DaveRicheson | Oct 24, 2006 10:32pm | #16

   Must have been one of the jobs I worked on years ago. Got the t- for that one. Glad I was only hired help. We started using the kickers after that one.

    

   Dave

4. 
   McDesign | Oct 23, 2006 02:58pm | #6

   Just a thought - why not paint it all flat black with some hanging lights like a trendy resturant with all the ductwork and steel exposed?

   Seriously - it could be cool!

1. 
   slimn | Oct 24, 2006 03:03am | #11

   Great idea if I can convince my family. Simple and easiest of all but alas

   Thanks