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Suspended ceiling help

Boats234 | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 8, 2008 06:25am

I’m installing a T-bar ceiling (Armstrong) and I need to go vertical with 1 panel.

Is there a standard method for making this 90degree turn? -<think soffit >

My current plan is to rivet a wall molding ( 1″ AL angle ) to the main runner and install a second wall molding on the top.

To finish up I guess I’ll pop rivet some custom fit T-Bars for the 2′ panel spacing.

Is there an easier way?

Ray

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  1. calvin | Dec 08, 2008 06:38am | #1

    Might just need some "clips" to hold the tiles upright 

     

     Tip 13: Using grid to box around obstructions


    1. Using aviation snips, make a straight vertical cut on the web of the main beam 1/2" from a cross tee slot. Do not cut through the bottom flange of the main beam; this flange will act as a hinge.

    View Imagesteps 1-2

    2. From the straight cut on the main beam, measure a distance equal to the required drop in the ceiling level. Here make two 45˚ angle cuts on the main beam. Once again, do not cut through the bottom flange of the main beam.

    3. Insert cross tees into top slots.
    View Image

    steps 3-4

    4. Attach grid wall molding to the outside of the bottom bends, using sheet metal screws or pop rivets.

    5. Install vertical ceiling panels. Hold the vertical panels in place by drilling or punching a 1/8" hole in the main beam 1/2" above the flange. After working the panel into position, use hold-down clips or slide an 8- or 10-penny nail halfway through the hole to hold it in place.

    View Imagestep 5

    NOTE: As an alternative, the dropped section of grid can be fastened to the main ceiling by using wall molding instead of bending the grid.

    1. Snap a chalkline across the face of the grid to locate where the molding will be mounted.

    2. Attach the molding to the face of the grid using pop rivets or sheet metal screws.

    3. Rivet or screw the drop portion of the soffit grid to the molding. The drop grid is bent as indicated previously to form the bottom.

    View Image step 1-3

    4. Rivet or screw the wall molding to the face of the bottom corner. If the dropped portion comes back up on the other side, repeat the process.

     

    Armstrong Home | For the Home | Para el Hogar | Commercial Floors | Commercial Ceilings | Careers | Site Map

    About Armstrong | International Sites | Contact Armstrong | Terms & Conditions | Privacy Policy

     

    Your ideas become reality¯ with Armstrong.com¯

    © 2000-2008 AWI Licensing Company. All rights reserved.

    A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    http://www.quittintime.com/

     

    1. Boats234 | Dec 08, 2008 04:47pm | #4

      Thanks for the replies.

       

      Cal,

      That's exactly what I was looking for. I searched the Armstrong site and never located that detail.

      <even going back to the site I still can't find that detail section-- where the hell is it?>

      Only problem is I already cut my main runners to length, so it won't work today but it will work great next week when I get into the bar area.

       

      Rasconc,

      The wall angles I have are probably 3/4" not 1" like I stated, so I should be good to go.

       

      Jhole,

      I like the melamine idea for a cleaner look. I need to install a couple of return air vents/ louvers so I should be able to locate them at the splice to hide that even further.

       

      Thanks again

       

      Ray

      1. mhole | Dec 08, 2008 05:56pm | #5

        Fwiw, if you dodn't want to fab the melamine - just go to a borg and get melamine shelf boards.

         

        .02

      2. BUIC | Dec 08, 2008 06:34pm | #6

          Another option...

          We often use F molding at an outside corner that is going to turn vertical.  In the channel created by the F, you can put tile, rock, or melamine. The F comes in 1/2" and 5/8".

          They also make a fascia molding. Several sizes, the large is 8"?

          You should find them on the Armstrong site...buic

         Edit to add-  just saw where you said you've already cut the mains to length. That F molding would be my choice, if the vertical is over 8".  It'll finish the corner and hold the vertical panel neatly, all at once. Makes for a clean trasition.

        Edited 12/8/2008 10:39 am ET by BUIC

        1. MSLiechty | Dec 10, 2008 06:33am | #8

          Amstrong makes a  12" Axiom edge mold.

          http://www.armstrong.com/common/c2002/content/files/24617.pdf

           

          ML

  2. rasconc | Dec 08, 2008 06:40am | #2

    I have not done a lot but that is one of the ways I would attack it.  You might look for some of the smaller wall angles if you do not have a fire rating issue (I have seen some that is more like 3/4 than the heavier 1").

    For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
  3. mhole | Dec 08, 2008 03:09pm | #3

    We always/usually hang melamine as the verticles. 3/4 tape the edge. can either block or use #12 wire.

     

    Fast, easy, much less "cluttered" look at completion.

     

    Just terminate horizontals into the mel.

    Can't find pics. Sorry

  4. MSLiechty | Dec 10, 2008 06:27am | #7

    Being a union T- bar guy I've done my fair share of soffets. 

    Are yoiu using flat T- grid or slot grid?

    Also you could use Axiom edge trim to creat your soffit Looks real clean.

    http://www.armstrong.com/common/c2002/content/files/3314.PDF

    You need to use hold down clips  in order to hold the tile on the vertical. CMC makes the best ones they have aligater teeth to hold it tight.  Make sure you pull a  line to keep it all stright and plumb.

     

    ML

     


    Edited 12/9/2008 10:30 pm by MSLiechty



    Edited 12/9/2008 10:34 pm by MSLiechty

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