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Discussion Forum

SW Duration Interior Paint

emaxxman00 | Posted in General Discussion on April 13, 2008 07:55am

What are your thoughts on Duration Interior?

I read thru the threads here and they focused mostly on the exterior version.  I’ve used Superpaint in the rest of the house and love it but noticed Duration interior last fall when choosing paint for my 1/2 bath.

Is the interior Duration:

  1. really thick like the exterior?
  2. more difficult to brush than Superpaint (on trim/corners)
  3. truly doesn’t need a primer? – I thought that this would be a timesaver but if it’s harder to work with, I will use SP and primer (Zinser 123) like everywhere else in the house.

I’m considering Duration based on the following perceived benefits but if I’m wrong, let me know:

  1. Faster overall if I truly don’t need to prime.
  2. Higher durability over Superpaint (but does this matter for interiors?)
  3. Break even or maybe cheaper overall when compared to buying SP and seperate primer (I know the cost savings, if any, are puny so this is not a deal breaker… #1 and #2 are my main reasons.)

I’m prepping my center hall foyer for new paint.  It had wallpaper prior and the drywall was primed and painted prior with what looks like semi gloss paint.  The paper came off very cleanly with absolutely no trouble at all…just pulled right off.

The plan is to go with a warm but somewhat neutral color..not sure.  It definitely won’t be one of those bold colors that need 80 coats for even coverage.

Like always, there will tons of prep – patching and sanding before the 1st coat goes on. 

 

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Replies

  1. User avater
    BillHartmann | Apr 13, 2008 08:44pm | #1

    I would specifically ask SW about using it after a WP removal with a stain blocking primer.

    I have never used it, but always use Problock or Bulleye 123 on a wallpaper removal to seal in a wallpaper paste residue.

    See if you can talk to a tech support person either through the store or the website.

    .
    .
    A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
    1. emaxxman00 | Apr 13, 2008 09:19pm | #3

       

      Bill - you bring up a good point.  I've used 123 primer on all surfaces except where I had wallpaper.  In those places, I used Zinser's oil-based odorless primer (which surprisingly has less odor than 123...go figure.)  I forgot about the possible side effects of latex paint over old wallpaper glue. 

      I'll ask the SW rep at the store.  If he recommends priming first, then I'll just go with Superpaint. 

      1. emaxxman00 | Apr 15, 2008 03:53pm | #4

        FWIW...here's the reply from Sherwin Williams:

        Hello,

        Once all of the old wallpaper adhesive has been removed we would suggest priming the walls with our PrepRite Bonding Primer. This primer is made to increase adhesion to glossy surfaces like your semi-gloss finish. Once the primer has dried apply super paint or Duration Home to the surface in the sheen and color of your choice.

        Jim

        1. WindowsGuy | Apr 15, 2008 07:41pm | #5

          Pay close attention to the phrase "all of the old wallpaper adhesive has been removed" as that is key.  Once you think it's all off, wash it again unless you want a crackle finish.

          While I truly hate the old oil-based primers noxious smells, prepping previously wall papered walls is when I get out the fans, open the windows, and seal the room.  Let us know how it works out.

          1. emaxxman00 | Apr 16, 2008 01:33am | #8

            http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=14

            For oil interior needs, I use Zinnser's odorless primer.  It's solvent based but has almost no odor...in fact, it has less odor than traditional latex paint. 

            I've used this to seal in previously wallpapered walls.  Works great and you can easily keep the windows closed.  I first used it when my kids were very young (2-3 years old) and had no problems whatsoever.

             

             

          2. WindowsGuy | Apr 16, 2008 06:06pm | #10

            I've used the Zinsser odorless primer as well with good results (windows open).  I have to dispute the odorless part however. :-)  

            According to their MSDS the Odorless Primer is still a <350 g/l VOC product, and even though it dries fast, the smell is strong enough to be noticed - at least by my family.  I am cursed with the nose of a bloodhound and am constantly picking up odors that no one else smells. 

            The only true odorless primer I have found is SW Harmony.  It is rated at 0 VOC which really means its <5 g/l VOC.  The Harmony paints are good too.

            Although the Harmony products are great for my nose, they are still water based and I would not risk using them to seal wallpaper paste.

        2. paperhanger | Apr 15, 2008 09:23pm | #6

          SEAL THE WALL WITH AN OIL BASE PRIMER!

  2. User avater
    procrazyman | Apr 13, 2008 08:48pm | #2

    I don't like Zinsser water base 123.  It dries too glossy.  Zinsser cover stain is excellent but has a strong odor.  I think Zinsser makes a SELF-PRIMING bath paint. You will have to read the label.  It is not necessary to prime if the room has been painted with a satin finish or lower sheen.  Lets face it, there isn' t any paint that is so durable that you won't have to repaint.  I am now using Benjamin Moore AquaPearl in bathrooms.  Seems to hold up and can be washed.  It is more important to pay attention to the sheen level for durability rather than the brand.  The most durable paints that I have used are high gloss oils. The least durable are latex flats.

  3. kate | Apr 16, 2008 12:38am | #7

    I use the interior Duration a lot - over wallpaper removal, I would be inclined to use the Zinsser pigmented shellac - it does smell like denature alcohol, but th odor dissipates quickly.

    I put in a shot of flotrol if I need to improve the brushing.  The coverage is terrific - I used dark colonial red over white, in two coats brushing, one with a roller, on my trim - it is somewhat rough hand-planed chestnut timber frame and old fir window and door trim.  On the doors, it dries smooth as can be.

    I use eggshell on the trim, & flat on the walls.  I know that many people like to use eggshell on the walls, but I'm working with 100-year old plaster. 

    Good luck with your project. 

  4. RW | Apr 16, 2008 03:10am | #9

    It is probably the nicest brushing and rolling product I've used. I've never tried it sans primer, and with what you're describing, man. Just for the insurance I'd prime. You're covering, obviously, a lot of garbage and patchwork when you get into wallpaper removal like that.

    There wont be any great cost savings, but it dries out very even, you don't get a hat line around the ceiling with it, and its very durable.

    If you've ever read a basic definition regarding the differences between an evaporative, reactive, and (I don't recall who first used the term,) coalescing finish, think of how the waterbornes act. Thats essentially what they did with this paint.

    Real trucks dont have sparkplugs

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