Any thoughts of using 1 vs. 2 coats of SW Duration exterior paint?
I’ve heard mixed reviews of changes in formulation over the years; does it seem to have the kinks worked out in the current batch?
Also, it’s starting to get cold in New England; does it really hold up in cold application as it says it does?
thanks,
—mike…
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Replies
5 years back I got caught by the weather, late in the fall. Big job that included stripping the existing paint on the whole house back to the bare wood siding. I then primed with OB and got one coat of Duration on.....in temps around 45-50F. Weather got worse/colder after that. I decided to quit and resume in the spring with the 2nd coat......which I did.
House looks great today with no visible problems whatsoever.
(You need to apply 2 coats to qualify for the warranty.)
Just finished applying second coat on our outbuilding (have it on the house too). It's not the easiest paint to apply, especially the second coat (dragging a bit over the first) but it's really, really good paint.
Not sure about the super cold-weather performance but it's just fine here (NJ)
Jeff
I havbe had it on for only two years now and it looks just a good as the day I painted it. It did strip everything down to the bare wood then used primer and two coats of duration.
But isn't the point of Duration to be self-priming. Single coat if you don't need a primer, two coats to get a full-color primer plus a topcoat. I think they have another paint line if you're adding a separate priming layer.I guess my question (or one of them anyways) is whether a single coat is enough for pre-primed WRC shingles. The surface is a bit rough, so I didn't know if a single coat would give the same durability as two coats of something else. My goal is to not do this again for a very long time, hopefully at least 10 or 15 years if not more. On the siding I've replaced because of weathering, I've put in a rainscreen, and there has been a lot of care for air barriers and weather penetration to reduce moisture behind the siding. But at $50/gal, an extra coat is not insignificant.---mike...
WRC will llet tannins bleed through unless you use a stain blocking primer under itr.Other than that, Duration is a great paint in ool weather but needs two coats to get it good.
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>WRC will let tannins bleed through unless you use a stain blocking primer under it.I guess you're indicating that the primer on pre-primed WRC shingles isn't stain-blocking.Paint sub says he's been using Duration on WRC without problems, and other work looks good, although relatively new examples.I'm thinking I want to hold him to 2 coats. Duration is supposed to go on twice as thick, but I think that might be on smooth surfaces. When the surface is uneven, I think the high points will apply more pressure between the peaks and the brush and may starve those areas.
I don't know what primer you have on it now. This depends to some degree what colour you are using if it will show thru too.
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But isn't the point of Duration to be self-priming.
I don't think the greatest benefit of Duration is its self-priming ability. It may be self-priming, but there are far cheaper primers you can use (and IMO better primers to use when stain-killing/tannin-trapping is in order). The 'self-priming' characteristic is important when painting over existing coats of paint or when prep has exposed some bare wood here and there. Then its SP ability saves the step of having to drag out another primer for just a few spots here and there.
I guess my question (or one of them anyways) is whether a single coat is enough for pre-primed WRC shingles.
Define 'enough'. Paint fails for basically one of two reasons- Either it loses its adhesion and peels off.... or it eventually wears away. If yours isn't going to fall/peel off because off moisture infiltration from the backside (or other reasons such as surface contamination or poor surface prep)....then two coats will last longer than one because it will take longer for the paint film to wear away. I painted this house of ours with 2 coats of Duration some 12 years ago and it still looks just fine. I felt the same as you concerning the price at the time, but am glad I spent the money now. It's more expensive now than it was then and I suspect this will hold true with the passage of time. The greatest expense of most exterior house re-paints is the prep. Proceed with your prep & paint choices accordingly is my advice.
Edited 10/15/2009 8:38 pm ET by HootOwl
I did prime everything. Wasn't sure what paint we were going to use when we started. Did talk to the salesman at SW ( who I have know for a number of years) and he said that he felt more comfortable with a primer on than not.
He has been in the paint business for over 25 years, and because he is more old school he may believe more in the priming and then top coat vs top coat also being the pirmer
Ron
One of the paint crews we use was painting the exterior of the local Sherwin Williams store, at 35°F. I don't know that they were using Duration but they must be comfortable with it to test it like that.
Mike,
Duration is a great product. We always prime then apply two coats of paint for the best appearance and performance. Self-priming paints in my experience do not offer consistent sheen without either a second coat or proper primer.
Fall is also an excellent time to paint with incredibly low humidity and fairly comfortable temperatures for the painter. Last year we were painting into November with frost overnight and tolerable temps. on the sunny side of the house. We switched to Resilience for its resistance to rain, dew and condensation.
Good luck on your project,
Jon
Russian saying
>Fall is also an excellent time to paint with incredibly low humidity and fairly comfortable temperatures for the painter.I guess they build you guys tougher in the Great White North. The painters started some test patches yesterday, we made some color corrections, and they began work in earnest today, very bundled up. It was in the low 40's all day. It's now supposed to rain for the next few days... I know that Duration is supposed to be quick drying; hope it's quick drying in the cold...I'm wondering if it's okay if, as someone mentioned, they finish with one coat before winter, then come back in the spring for the rest. All the prep will be completed and protected, they just need to apply more paint. I think they're behind schedule with the exterior season closing up rapidly, but I don't want them to rush through my job. He's been talking about doing one coat, and deducting some cost, so I think he wants to move on to other jobs...---mike...
one more question: how does Duration do with non-wood?I have one vinyl window in a bathroom and a bunch of aluminum storms. S-W says Duration is good for vinyl, aluminum, and galvanized metal.A few years ago I saw a sheet, probably from Benjamin Moore, saying that aluminum storms could be primed with normal house primer and painted as normal for primed surfaces. The trick, they said, was to not scrub off aluminum to make a slick surface, but to lightly wash off dirt, and the oxidation allowed for more grip on a roughened surface. I read somewhere else that the primer should state it works with galvanized metal.Since Duration is supposed to be good for those materials, I was wondering if I could use it directly without a separate priming step.thoughts?
---mike...
I've used it on Azec and the composite material of Marvin Integrity doors and windows.
On the Azec, I do scuff with 120 first for some tooth in the mechanical bond. Dark color over the white do take two coats to get good. No primer needed there. The primer is imprtant as a seal coat for th ebare wood, which is un-necessary on the hard materials
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Your question about should they stay to apply a second coat now or wait is a good one. There is no problem waiting for spring for the second and final coat. It is the prime coat that is most susceptible to weather.Now the question about whether they crew should stay and complete or wait. From a consumers point of view they should stay and complete the project.Now from a painting contractors point of view I have four other outdoor projects that are begging for attention before the temperatures turn truly chilly. I would try to convince you to let us return. Jon"There is no good answer to a stupid question"
Russian saying
I agree that a 2nd coat in the spring should work out just fine, but that means re-prepping. Most importantly, cleaning the surfaces before painting and also removing and re-installing things such as leaders, shutters, etc.
If the painters can assure the the homeowners that they will be redoing these important steps, then waiting till spring should be ok. If it were my house, I would prefer that they finish before moving on.
In a cold climate, that can mean problems.
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>In a cold climate, that can mean problems.which "that": (1) waiting till spring for a second coat, or (2) trying to get the second coat as the temperature drops?we got a dusting of snow yesterday...---mike...
That which you ( was it you?) recommended - putting the second coat on now.
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I may be wrong but I've always thought that the second coat was to make sure you have complete coverage.
In the past I have slowed down and been very carefull to get a full coat on.
But if I get a really good light on the work and look real close with magnification I still missed spots.
Even if have complete coverage there might be areas that are real thin.
Two coats is the minimum I think. You always miss spots.
Will Rogers