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Swanstone Shower prep-CB v. MR drywall

BflatBlue | Posted in General Discussion on September 13, 2009 04:02am

I am hoping someone can give me some good advice on the following bathroom shower remodel.

I am installing a Swanstone (shower floorand 3 solid panels) unit and so far all has gone well.  Shower area has been reframed, the floor is in, and the rough plumbing is complete.

Swanstone’s website has the exact directions for both cement board and drywall.  My questions are:

1.  Since this is a solid surface material (no grout lines), is it overkill to use cement board?  Can I just install the MR drywall as planned in the rest of the bathroom, tape, paint, and install?  I’ve worked a lot with drywall, never with cement board.  If I use Drywall I don’t have to figure out how to treat the joints where CB and sheetrock meet.  If I used CB am I gaining any huge advantage?

2. None of the shower walls are exterior walls, so there is no insulation involved.  From what I have read, it sounds like CB should have either #15 felt or poly stapled to the studs for a vapor barrier.  Is this correct, no matter whether the wall is insulated or uninsulated?

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  1. ruffmike | Sep 13, 2009 07:31pm | #1

    I'd consider Densshield Tile Backer.

    http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4684

                                Mike

        Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

    1. BflatBlue | Sep 20, 2009 04:58pm | #6

      Hi Mike,

      I followed the link to GP Denshield and it looks good.  I went to the local home center and also saw that they stocked Densguard Tile backer, (Blue side faces out, sheetrock in the middle, yellow back) which seems to do many of the same things that the Densguard does.  Would you use either?  It looks as though the Dens guard can be primed, which is what swanstone states many times in their install directions.

       

      1. ruffmike | Sep 20, 2009 05:13pm | #7

        That is the stuff. I would call the face gray rather than blue.                            Mike

            Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

        1. BflatBlue | Sep 22, 2009 03:11am | #9

          Sorry to keep coming back to the same question, but it's what's confusing me a bit.  GP has a product called Densshield, with the gray face.  They also offer a product called Densguard, with the blue face.  Then there is a third, Densarmourplus.  It sounds like you have worked with the Densshield.  Correct? 

          1. ruffmike | Sep 22, 2009 04:06am | #11

            I work for a commercial drywall company.

            Denshield Tile Backer

            I am not familiar with Densguard. It looks like Denshield made for Lowes

            Densamour Plus is a paperless drywall.

            Our tapers have finished exposed Denshield to a smooth wall with no problems.

            Here are their own descriptions;

            http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4684                            Mike

                Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

    2. jimjimjim | Sep 22, 2009 09:39pm | #12

      All:

      I've never worked with Swanstone solid panels (or Denshield for that matter) so I don't have any answers.

      I have a question: Why would the solid surface panel need anything behind it (except maybe the studs)?

      Thanks,

      Jim x 3

      1. rdzone | Sep 22, 2009 10:52pm | #13

        The swanstone panels are approximately 1/4" thick and definately need a stable base behind them.

        1. jimjimjim | Sep 22, 2009 11:26pm | #14

          Thanks - I didn't figure they would be that thin.  Jim x 3

  2. juan | Sep 13, 2009 10:28pm | #2

    Cement board or tile backer board seems overkill (not that here's anything terribly wrong with overkill). I'd use green board.

  3. YesMaam27577 | Sep 14, 2009 01:12am | #3

    The last time I used green board was just before the makers announced that it really want' all that good for wet locations.

    I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
    And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
    I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
    So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

  4. Pelipeth | Sep 14, 2009 02:28am | #4

    I've done several of the Swanstone shower pkg's. SR is fine, as nothing is going to get through the solid surface. The inside corner's can be scribed and caulked (clear latex), or Swanstone has a trim piece for the inside corners, kinda bulky to my eye. The soap and shampoo dishes are also VERY bulky on the verge of ugly. The Swanstone solid surface is a top of the line product, for that type of application.
    Less expensive way to go would be AZEK sheet goods, you'll get the same results but white only.

    1. CRF | Sep 14, 2009 05:07pm | #5

      I've done that in a couple of showers using only SR as a base. Didn't even tape the seams. It worked just fine and no water will get behind it if caulked/applied correctly. Why would you go the extra step of messing with doing cement board?Great product and absolutely a dream to clean/maintain!

  5. 43Billh | Sep 20, 2009 06:35pm | #8

    Blue,

    I did my own bathroom in Swanstone.  I went with Denshield but looking back on it I wouldn't be afraid of green board either.

    2 things.

    Get the wall as flat as possible. I had to do a good bit of shimming but it was worth it.

     One thing I would do different. I would use a 1/4" or 3/8" notch trow and get complete coverage of the adhesive instead of the squiggly little lines the instructions recommend. I have a couple "Hollow spots" where the adhesive didn't take. 

     Probably not a big deal as it's been up there over 4 years now, but it still bugs me a little.

    Bill

    1. BflatBlue | Sep 22, 2009 03:14am | #10

      Thanks a lot for your input.  When you went with the Denshield, did you then skim coat it, or just put the swanstone over it?  Also, did you prime the surface?  Swanstone mentions this several times as a necessary step.  "Surface should be smooth and primed."  Just wondering what your procedure was.  I like the idea of using a notched trowel.

  6. pixburd | Sep 23, 2009 04:49am | #15

    Very important to acclimate panels to room, also best not to let the panels touch the base during install. I have done Swanstone on both Drywall and cement board. If you plan to use cement board or denshield, I would recommend leaving them 3 inch short, so you can tape joints behind the shower panels.

    I like to build a temporary frame inside the shower to hold the panels tight while the adhesive sets.

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