Replies

1. 
   TomMoen | Mar 26, 2002 10:28pm | #1

   David,

   If your floor is level, and you built the wall well (that means square), your windows will be level when the wall is stood.  All you have to do is make sure that the bottom of the window is snug to the sill (watch for little wood chips and whatnot).  If you have another window in close proximity, make sure they are parallel/lining up to each other before you nail it off.  Then its just a matter of caulking, and then standing the wall. 

   Most windows don't need to be perfectly level or plumb to function properly.  The inportant thing is to make sure it looks good.  That means parallel to the floor or any nearby walls perpendicular to the wall you are raising, and lined up nicely with other windows in close proximity.

   Are you lifting that wall alone too?

   Tom

1. 
   david36957 | Mar 26, 2002 10:56pm | #2

   Thanks Tom.  I always thought that if the floor was level and the wall was square, I would be OK.  I guess I am afraid of cumulative error - a little off on the floor plus a little off on the wall, etc.  Thanks for the point about lining up windows that are near each other - that's probably most important. The thing is though, when I install a window in a rough opening, I normally shim the bottom a little here and there - it usually needs it, and plus I thought it was good in case of any expansion.  I guess I should save some real good looking stock for the window sills.

   I will have some help lifting the walls - a couple of friends by the name of 'jack'. :)  (I wish they were proctor jacks, but they are a little too expensive for me).

2. 
   jimblodgett | Mar 26, 2002 11:00pm | #3

   Most windows with a nailing flange come 1/2" smaller each direction than the call out size. So if you frame your R.O. to call out size, do this to center your window with the wall flat on the deck -

   Place the window in the opening and pull it tight to one side and tight against the framed sill. Run your pencil along the edge of the flange on the side and bottom. Now push the window all the way tight against the opposite trimmer and header and again run your pencil along the edges of the nailing flanges. This second set of lines should be close to 1/2" away from, and paralell to, your first two lines.

   Now split the difference between the lines and that's where you nail your flange. When you stand your wall you'll see that the window is centered, which I think is better because you get a chance to shim your wraps and sill, in case something is a little askew.

   Of course, what Tom said about framing members being consistant lengths and nailed together square is critical for this technique to work.

   Don't forget to put all your exterior trim on while the wall's flat on the deck, too. Beats the heck out of working off a ladder.

3. 
   TomMoen | Mar 27, 2002 03:52am | #4

   David,

   Yeah, just to second Jim's good advice :  Always start off centering those windows in the openings.  Gives you more options for adjustment.  Many times the windows themselves won't be square, so in order to align said crappy window parallel to the one next to it, you might have to nail off the bottom, and wrench over the top until it looks pretty.  If its a fixed window, or a casement, there's not much you can do to wrench it over, but if its a slider or double hung it'll move pretty easily.  Make sure the window closes properly and has even reveals before you nail it off. 

   You ARE using vinyl windows with a nailing flange, right?. 

   Tom

1. 
   DaveMason2 | Mar 27, 2002 04:28am | #5

   David, for slow setting caulk around the windows I've used accustical(sp) sealant, or what most guys call "Black Death".

   Hope this helps, by the way I set and trim my windows just like Jim does on the floor before we even stand the wall.

   Good Luck , Dave