Hi All,
I have a job coming up where I am building a garage/workshop (Arizona). The siding needs to be T11 4′ x 8′ sheets to match the existing house. The common practice on these homes (built in the early 80’s) was to install the T11 directly over the studs/insulation…I am not a big fan of this idea when considering R-value and overall wall strength. My thoughts were to do 1/2 OSB sheathing, Tyvek house wrap, then the T11 siding. Thoughts on this appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
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Replies
The common practice on these homes (built in the early 80's) was to install the T11 directly over the studs/insulation...I am not a big fan of this idea when considering R-value and overall wall strength.
Chris,
You don't like the strength or R value. For one, I don't think the addition of OSB will have any appreciable benefit with regard to insulation.
As far as wall strength goes, I would imagine T1-11 will give you more than enough strength. The thickness is usually 5/8" so even with the grooves I'd guess you have a solid 3/8" piece left. 3/8" is certainly not overkill but unless you have a lot of walls in your garage it will be fine.
My beef with T1-11 is it can delaminate and flashing details need to be right on. I would put some 8" splines of felt behind the joints to help with any water that may get behind the siding.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Go ahead and sheath if you want, but the biggest benefit will be from Tyvek or Typar stapled right to the studs then put up the T1-11.
Use Z bar at the horizontal joints,caulk to keep bugs out. You can use adhesive along vertical seams. It will be plenty strong. It doesnt get freezing too many places there, although it does happen.
Hows that house that was built in the 80s holding up? If its strong, do it the same way.
blue
Not that I think it ''needs'' it but if I were going to put OSB on it ,I would put it on the inside of the walls.You did say it was going to be a shop ,right. Doing it this way, when you need a place to hang something ya just pound a 16 in!
I would wrap it in some type of wrap though.
Come on. T1-11 over osb? 5/8 T1-11 is rated for sheathing - it's plenty strong. Don't overdrive your nails and you'll be fine. Remember windows
with nail fins are sposed to go on first so you hafta cut out the opening in the sheet before you stick it.
I've used t1-11 several times and you should be ok with direct attachment to the studs...however, be sure you stain/paint each and every area you possibly can...and be prepared to use lots of stain/paint as it tends to be a"thirsty" bugger...
good luck!
knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain
http://www.cobrajem.com
Charlie is right on---seal that bottom edge--and I mean well---
That end area with ground splash is the first to go--followed closely by the top if you have no Z flashing--
If the sheets are one high to the soffit then you good but if you stack sheets like on a gable then get the Z flashing in there.
I used this very thing on my shed and moved the stud layout 4 inches over and then ran 16 to set the nail patten off from the groove lay out---that set my nails in the field instead of the thinner groove--Kept me from having to use a nail set to finish the nails.
If you want more rack resistance then let in some steel T or 1x4---overkill IMHO but if need be use this instead of sheathing and then siding.
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Thanks for all the feedback. I see there is mention of 5/8" T1-11, just to add a little more info, the existing structure is sided with 7/16" T1-11 composite (almost like a masonite material) and no type of wrap. Which is one of the reasons for my strength issues. For the garage I may look into not going with the 7/16" material and go with the 5/8" without the sheathing. Also, on the gable ends the top sheet overlaps the bottom so they avoided use of the z-bar.
Chris