Replies

1. 
   FastEddie | Aug 15, 2008 05:23am | #1

   From Lee Valley ...

   Accu-Miter¯

   View Image

   View Image

   View Image Many table saws come with a miter gauge that cannot provide the accuracy you need. The Accu-Miter¯ gauge gives you accurate cuts (square or angled) and ensures that cuts are made to the right length without the necessity of marking your stock. Suitable for all acute and obtuse angles up to 50°, the gauge has a convenient positive stop mechanism at 15°, 22-1/2°, 30°, 45° and 90° angles. The fence is a ribbed box extrusion 18" long and 2-3/4" high; it is graduated and can be adjusted to give you exact measurements from the blade. This, combined with a micro-adjust flip stop, lets you make repetitive crosscuts accurately without measuring and marking. The stop also helps prevent creeping by giving your stock solid support. The fence has a graduated sliding extension with its own stop, allowing you to crosscut boards to length up to 34". The gauge comes with a ready mount, predrilled and tapped 3/8" x 3/4" x 20" long table bar that is designed to fit most popular table saws (carefully measure the slot in your table saw to ensure fit prior to ordering). A heavy-duty hold-down clamp that makes cutting safer and even more reliable is also available separately.

   A.		Accu-Miter¯  03J60.55 View Image View Image View Image View Image		$229.00							View Image
   B.		Optional Clamp  03J60.52 View Image View Image View Image View Image		$62.50							View Image

    

   "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   gerrynocab1948 | Aug 15, 2008 05:38am | #2

   Many thanks Eddie

   JUST WHAT I NEED

1. 
   JulianTracy | Aug 15, 2008 05:43am | #3

   I've got two of those I'm selling, here's my CL ad:http://detroit.craigslist.org/tls/795052490.htmlI think one is sold and I've got a call on the 2nd one, but I can let you know if it's still available soon.Julian

1. 
   gerrynocab1948 | Aug 15, 2008 03:52pm | #8

    I have solved my problem now, these things always come up to late, but many thanks gerry

2. 
   rasconc | Aug 15, 2008 05:51am | #4

   I have this and love it:

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18063&filter=sled

   For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
1. 
   larryscabnuts | Aug 15, 2008 06:55am | #5

   I think I am gonna build mine... I have built 3 of them in the past. The Rockler one is pretty slick.

1. 
   rasconc | Aug 15, 2008 02:55pm | #6

   A cross cut sled is pretty easy to build but if you look closely the mitre function is really good on this one.  The stop/fence/hold downs are great also.  With the arc so far from the saw it is large and the magnifying window allows for easy interpolation to fractions of degrees.

   My only issues were shipping damage that they more than made right.For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.

1. 
   larryscabnuts | Aug 15, 2008 06:01pm | #11

   It looks to be well thought out.

2. 
   gerrynocab1948 | Aug 15, 2008 03:38pm | #7

   Many thanks for information, its so simple I could make it myself, but I won't because the price is  very affordable, The only thing that concerns me is, how do you clamp the sled the the table to ensure your parallel to the blade and is this a lenghy process.

   regards gerry

1. 
   rasconc | Aug 15, 2008 04:10pm | #9

   It has steel bar for the slot in TS.  It has adjustable spring loaded ball bearings to get rid of any slop.  You run the sled through the blade and if your blade is parallel to your track (which you should check first) it should be golden.  Then zero out the cursor for the sled fence using a good quality square.  Dang I did that from memory.

   Go to the link and hit the instructions pdf, tells it better.

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=18063&TabSelect=Details

   I would recommend the accessory for the offcut side while you are ordering.  I made one out of a scrap of 1/2" mdf with a piece of screen mould for runner.  Not as elegant but functional.  For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.

1. 
   gerrynocab1948 | Aug 22, 2008 04:53am | #16

   There's the rub this tablesaw has no slot for the bar to run along, any attachment mitre would have to be mounted to the left hand side table top edge. I should have explained that before. Thats down to age I am afraid and the second point I forgot to mention I live in England and some of the mitres being suggested are not avaiable over here.

   So I apoligise to you and others who have left posts for me but if you can still advise I would be grateful.

   Regards Gerry   

1. 
   rasconc | Aug 22, 2008 06:50am | #18

   Good luck.  It would help if you outlined such when asking a question.  It would also help to fill out your profile but most of us would not necessarily look at it before responding.  The brand of the TS was a mystery to me but there are some obscure ones here too.  Besides, as my wife points out to me I do not know everything, (:-)

   I am unaware of anything with any degree of accuracy that would fit your needs.

   I would consider moving the track on the Rockler to the left and making something to extend the top to accomodate it.  If there is enough meat you could take the top to a machine shop and have a slot milled into it.  Just some wild guesses, not having seen your machine.

   BobFor those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.

3. 
   CAGIV | Aug 15, 2008 04:18pm | #10

   I have an Incra

   http://tinyurl.com/59mmn5

   Well worth the money in my opinion and dead accurate.  It was dead accurate out of the box but does have adjustments if it get's knocked out of alignment.

   

4. 
   Scott | Aug 15, 2008 06:56pm | #12

   I've always wondered about the effectiveness of these things. Do they work well? How important is it to peen the slop out of the guide slots?

   In comparison, the price of a miter saw or even a SCMS isn't that far out of reach these days.

   Scott.

   Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

1. 
   rasconc | Aug 15, 2008 07:21pm | #13

   One of the considerations is how good of a dust collection setup you have.  I have a Hitachi 10" cms, DW705 12" cms, DW 718 scms.  Dust collection is not their strong suit.  I have a reasonable setup with a 4" hose to the bottom of my TS and a redneck 4" setup over the top of the blade made out of a plastic Tequila bottle and a rabbit food bottle for a hood. 

   I get virtually no dust in the shop.  Another plus is you can gang cut a lot of things that I would be a little hesitant to try with the scms or the old radial arm saw.

   I just made a shelf unit where I trimmed 4" of the ends of 96x16 3/4' ply using it and made a big stack of blocks to go on the back of the stiles for shelf spacing.  I think it was easier to line them up with the sled than using a stop on the scms.

   Good consistent slide/track fit is pretty critical in my opinion.  That is one reason I like the Rockler product.  One could duplicate that with a little drilling and tapping I guess.

   For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.

   Edited 8/15/2008 12:27 pm ET by rasconc

5. 
   Bish | Aug 16, 2008 01:37am | #14

   Check out the new craftsman digital miter gauge. I just picked one up for about $75. The 3/4" bar is adjustable for a slop free fit, it gives you the option of a T slot setup, comes with a heavy extruded aluminum fence and is accurate to .1 degrees. It can be quickly recalibrated and the manual shows how to use it to set blade angle with an magnetic attachment. A lot for the money. I saw it in a review not long ago {maybe Fine Woodworking, I can't remember} and had to have one for my Unisaw. I actually use a sled system most of the time, but this looked pretty cool. Seems very well made for the money.

1. 
   gerrynocab1948 | Aug 16, 2008 11:26am | #15

   thanks gerry

2. 
   JulianTracy | Aug 22, 2008 05:43am | #17

   Should be noted that any miter bar can be made "adjustable" by drilling a few holes along the side of the bar and tapping them and screwing in a few nylon set screws.Tweak the set screws for a tight, no-slop fit.JT