What tool can be used to rip cut 2×4’s on a taper preserving the 3.5″ dimension? My table saw blade doesn’t make it all the way through. I need to taper cut 100 4 ft. segments of 2×4’s and many of the boards will be cut at different taper angles. . Thanks for any advice.
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If they don't have to be trim quality you can use a chainsaw very sucessfully. It'll take a little preactice though.
First, of course, you need a saw that can cut 3.5". Then youi need a taper jig.
For 100 pieces it's worth it to buy a taper jig or spend a little time making a good one. For your situation two pieces of 1x4 with a hinge at one end and some sort of wedge or thumbscrew to hold the other ends apart would probably work pretty well.
Get a band saw.
if you don't want to make a jig I'd recommend a long fence (at least 8' for 4' boards) and hot gluing shims to one end of each board. The shims create the taper and are simply removed after the cut is made. Normally this is made with two cuts on a table saw. Don't get carried away with the glue - use just enough to keep the shim from falling off, but allowing it to be scraped/pried off easily.
You didn't mention how smooth the cut needs to be. If a double cut on the table saw is not good enough I'd still rough cut it there and smooth up the cut in a planer - the shims hold the board at the correct angle, but you need a flat 4' sled (normally mdf or whatnot) to rest the board on while it's passed through the planer.
dave
What hasn't been mentioned yet is that standing up a 2x4 and ripping it on a table saw is extremely dangerous. You are free hand milling a sizable thickness material. It will fight you all the way.
you are pushing it through, and it is wanting to forcefully fly right back at you. To use pushsticks to keep your hands out of the way gives you no real control over the stock.
I've done it flat against a fence a whole lot of times (no taper), rather than planing it down and it's no picnic.
I would think re-ripping on edge with a capable bandsaw might be the safest.
What are you attempting to achieve with these pcs?
But is should be noted that a properly-designed taper jig will go a long way toward stabilizing the workpiece.
properly designed, sure
But I'd feel a whole lot more in control with a fully blocked, stopped 2x4 on edge and a circular saw. The pc would have to be locked in-preferably w/o clamps in a "thing" that had a solid surface for the base of the circular saw to ride on. Free hand it to a line. 2 hands on the saw and a position to both account for and to remove the chance of a kickback.
Circular saw jig.
I'd use my 10" Makita for one pass. With a smaller saw, flip the board and make 2 passes. The fence can be adjusted for different tapers.
I assume that image is shown upside-down and the "fence" would ride along the edge of the saw table? The workpiece is the piece in the middle?
No the jig is designed for a hand held circular saw. I have 10" and a 16" Makita saws. The 10" will cut 4x smooth sawn in a single pass. But with two passes it would work with a 7.25" saw. Upside down for a table saw it could be much simpler. Just a tapered extension on one side or a guide at an angle to ride the miter slot. Perfectly safe.
I am going to use the taper cuts as sleepers to level out a subfloor.
I was thinking maybe I could cut half an inch off each 2x4 and be left with a piece of lumber that could be fully cut on my table saw.
nj
If they're sleepers, then what's wrong with cutting them on the flat and then installing an inch and a half wide sleeper. 3" wide for a shim is pretty darn wide-uses at least twice as much material and is a pain in the rear.
If you free hand taper cut on the flat on the table saw (BE CAREFUL!!!)-and you have a wedge bigger than the pc. you are using leftover-set the fence on the table saw to zero out at the narrowest portion left. Straight rip and you've got a mirror image of your first pc. Adjust that rip if you need more or less of the same taper.
Now, if you plan on laying these taper rips side by side solid..................
I am going to use the taper cuts as sleepers to level out a subfloor.
I was thinking maybe I could rip cut half an inch off each 2x4 and be left with a piece of lumber that could be fully cut on my table saw.
Shims? Cut them across the width and make your life easy. Eveything else you nail to is 1 1/2 inches.