At least I think it’s called a “tray ceiling” — anyway I am having a horrible taping the intersection of a wall/ceiling slanted 45 degrees where it intersects the horizontal ceiling. The Ferguson DW book recommends a rounded joint technique to hide the fact that the joint isn’t perfectly straight. That worked poorly for me. So I am trying StraightFlex, but I think I am doing it wrong. I now think that I am supposed to embed the tape, then just skim the edges enough to hide them, and that no mud goes on the tape itself. I guess this means that wnen I paint this corner, I will be painting tape and not sanded compound.
Is this right? And if do, can I retape my unstatisfactory corneds and start all over. I’m afreaid that this cornerwill be a detail that will be very visible.
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I don't fully bed that tape in mud, only at the edges an inch or so, then I fully coat it over into the break at the corner
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Oh great, now we have confused Penobscotman - one post tells him to lay the mud on heavy to bed, another tells him the opposite!
You leave a little void in the corner behind the tape?
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
yes. I used to try to bed it fully like with paper tape, but I saw it demonstrated at a trade show where the guy just ran a setting bed down each edge, placed the Straight tape, and coated over. So I was thinking, that can't be very well set or strong. He could read my mind from the expression on my face - this was on an outside corner, BTW - and said something about it being the strongest corner possible. Then he grabbed a long pole and whacked it like he was trying to break Babe Ruth's record....The end of the pole broke off and went sailing, but the corner never dented or failed. He did a minor one swipe touch up and that was that.A couple weeks later, on a remodel, I had an inside corner with a gap between sheets of SR where I would normally have replaced one side or another and maybe placed a stick for backup. I tried the No-coat straight corner instead with that semi-bedded method and every thing was fine. Saved me a couple hours work.Every SR finisher I have seen since dong this kind of corner does it the same way. Saves so much time over trying to pack the vertex of the angle with mud.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Cool, I will have to try that one!
Does this mean I have to go to the "What did you learn today?" thread and post there? I gotta go to work.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I am not a full time professional drywall finisher. However I routinely finish a wall, room or a closet as part of a remodel.
>>...trying StraightFlex, but I think I am doing it wrong....supposed to embed the tape, then just skim the edges enough to hide them, and that no mud goes on the tape itself.<<
I have had great success with StraitFlex - embed tape (I like setting compound), skim edges to hide them ----- let dry / harden --- then finish just like paper tape. I'm not sure where you got the idea that no compound ever goes on top of the Straitflex.
If I understand your OP correctly the joint you are having trouble with is an obtuse angle which would actually measure about 135 dgrees? If so, Straitflex is exactly the product I would use. Lots of compound to start, bed tape and adjust to straighten - remove excess compound before it drys. Setting type is best in this situation - will be thick some places under the tape, thin in others.
OR does your OP indicate an acute angle of about 45 degrees? I had to do one of these on a closet project last spring - used paper tape and a custom ground knife to do it - major PITA - but it finished out nicely.
Good luck!
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
135 Degrees is correct. I got the idea that only the edge sare mudded from catalog copy and from StraitFlex'slanguage to the effect that panters like that tape surface asapaint substrate, especially the little groove that eases color transitions. Also the All Wallcatalg has another type of tape that apparently you only mud the edges, as the tape issupposed to mimic the texture and absorptance of DW paper (the covering).It's probably my bad trowling technique - I generally use corner trowel for 90 degree corners, so I'm not god a controlling the mud at another angle.