Anyone else out there get tired of shredded plans? I started a new frame job a week ago and already my plans look like my three year old got a hold of them. I bought some contact paper at Walmart and laminated my set for $6. Although not totally happy with the result I think it will do the trick for now. Anybody out there have a better plan for their plans I loved to hear it.
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Its common prcatice here to get the working set laminated with heavy plastic. The places we have that do it usually do business cards, photocopying etc. only a few bucks per large plan. they are almost indestructable like this.
Wood Hoon
I have one copy which is clearly marked as my copy. Don't even think about walking away with it.
I have a second copy which is the SITE copy which is used by the Subs to coordinate their work. Plumber may not have an electrical plan (even though I gave it to him) so he needs one to refer to. If it's a small project I hang it on the wall. Everyone, esp on larger jobs wants to take it to the area they are working in. Fine - to resolve a question - but not for the whole day because they forgot their's. If a Sub forgets his copy once, I become a ballbreaker and won't let him on the site without asking to see it.
This Site Copy also keeps everyone thinking about the job. During a free moment, like during lunch, it is not uncommon for the framer and the plumber or HVAC Sub to study it together to anticipate a coordination issue a month or two away. It is not a copy though, for the framer or the electrician to do calculations on.
Laminating one is a good idea for the SITE copy but I think it will work against you when you will be making notes or changes. Have one of the thin Sharpie permanent markers with you for temp notes like "See Super for added notes" or "Changed 1/22/03" or "Fixture TBD".
If a Sub looses a print I add something into my column and provide him with a new one, and he knows it. On some jobs, they wear out - but not in a week. Then, I give a new one without even being asked. We may even sit down and go through notes to be sure they are carried over. It may sound like a lot of hand holding but it saves on the oversites later on. It keeps me on my toes too.
Get you self a 3 or 4" pvc pipe, about so long, glue a cap on one end, stick in your drawings, put a (dry) cap on the other, yer good to go. Still get's tattered/faded though. Floor plans are the first to disintigrate, followed by strutural details,framing.
Permit set stays in it's own tube.
edited for language/content, and cybervision.
Edited 1/26/2003 4:05:53 PM ET by panama red
Panama red has got it. 4"tube
is good idea, but go 1 better.
Always keep an extra copy near.
We build in all kinds of weather
and its always been known to
rain or snow when you are trying
to frame or side a home. Never
fails!
thanks to all for the feedback. I liked the idea of laminating so I checked at Kinkos, they charge a buck a square foot under two feet wide anything larger is a buck fifty. My homemade job will have to do for now but next job Kinkos will be my first stop.
Camping stores (used to) sell some kind of stuff for painting on maps to protect them from moisture and toughen them against repeated handling. I never tried it, so I don't know how well it works, but lots of outdoorsy handbooks mention it. Might be worth experimenting with some thinned urethane finish. Make sure it doesn't dissolve the printing.
it protects against moisture, but not very well against w&t.
When I last worked in road construction, out plans were printed on a plastic paper. Not quite indestructible but close - tear and water resistant - and you can write on it with pencil and remove later using an eraser. From memory the paper was much cheaper than laminating.
Has anyone checked on getting prints on mylar ?
You think Kinko's would do a copy on mylar ?
Quittin' Time
Luka,
Kinkos will copy onto mylar, I did this a lot for class projects, you have to provide the mylar at least the kinkos I go to doesn't stock it.
I don't know if it works on letter size copies, I never tried it on the smaller machines, but the larger size copiers I know can do it.
Neil
I suspect that they were printed on Tyvek or a cousin.
I know that I have seen maps printed on Tyvek.
And HP sells rolls of 36" and 54" Tyvek for banner printing the DeskJets, but that should make good plans also.
At least one outfits was selling sheets of Tyvek for archive uses.
Do a google on TYVEK PAPER.
I've put 3/4" masking tape along the three free edges, front and back, right when the plans are new. It won't help with spills, rain, snow or sunlight but it keeps the pages from being torn as easily.
a common problem, what I've taken to doing is to take tyvek tape and go along the edges.
make sure you place it 1/2 on the edge and fold it over .
then I take 2 -1x2's and sandwich the stapled end with about 4 clinched 8 pennys.
the tape keeps the rips from starting and the 1x2's keep it from blowing away. it also rolls up real quick
Kinko's is the ticket. I usually get full size copies made while I'm at it so I have my original rolled up in the truck. I will also sometimes reduce the prints 50% so the y are easier to pack around while the scale is exactly half. Another thing I do is glue two sheets together befor they laminate them so one sheet of laminate has a page on each side.
I was going out with a girl that works at kinkos I asked her if she could make me acopy of our plans. For this particular custom house I was constantly refering to the plans , which means the plans were getting worked. Well she came back to me with this 14"x11" spiral notebook with a plastic cover, it was the plans . The pages were made out of card board paper. This set of plans could easily fit, loosely rolled in my bags. It gave me on the spot reference when laying out, finding elevations, looking up details, and answering questions from subs. Since it was made out of paper it was easy to right on. I kept alot of notes on the back side of the pages. Meanwhile the job site copy stays nice and crispy for the major meetings. This text works very well for detailed jobs.
Thanks to everyone for all the feedback. The G.C. ended up printing a half size set on mylar. I love it they are bombproof and I can roll them up and stick them in my bags.
A lot of good suggestions!
One blueprint shop I used to deal with always put brown paper (similar to a paper grocery bag) as the outside layer. That helped a lot and it was cheap.