Are there any “temporary” concrete nails that can be used to nail down the bottom of wall bracing 2x stock that sits on the slab? I have seen some of those square cut masonry nails but I don’t know if they can be removed easily once the walls and roof have been sheathed and the wall bracing is to be removed.
Thanks
This 654-sq.-ft. ADU combines vaulted ceilings, reclaimed materials, and efficient design, offering a flexible guest suite and home office above a new garage.
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Replies
Tapcons. Put the drill in reverse and they come right out.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Just use the cut nails or fluted nails and pull them out later. If the cut nails don't come out, hit them with the hammer and the snap in half. (No Offense Fast Eddie)Forget drilling and screwing for this because it's a waste of time for bracing.
I agree with Joe...the cut nails will snap off easily if whacked sideways. The downside is that they often leave divots that will require some patching. The patching won't be any harder than filling a drywall nail dimple though.
But.....If I was framing that building I'd probably easily figure out how to brace it without nailing anthing into the concrete. I think other have alluded to how it's done: get the interior plates permanently nailed down and use them for the brace anchors.
Yeah Jim I was going to try to do it without the interior walls down but I guess i'll go ahead and put them up also.
I asked you this last time in your other thread, can't you nail the brace into an inside wall? If this were a garage, there's no nailing into the slab.
Joe I was going to try to brace the exterior without putting up the interior walls but I think i'll go ahead and do that and use them for bracing as you guys suggested.
Joe I was going to try to brace the exterior without putting up the interior walls but I think i'll go ahead and do that and use them for bracing as you guys suggested.
That a boy!!!!!!
Get your outside walls up, brace the corner posts on the outside of the shoe, nail a temp brace on the nailed down shoe(I think your nailing them down) that's perpendicular to the outside wall. Do this on all your outside walls. Then frame all your interior walls tying the top plates into the exterior and use those walls to nail the braces on to push/pull the outside walls straight and nail the brace home.
There's no reason not to frame all the interior walls and then use them to nail your braces on to straighten the outside walls.
Joe Carola
Follow Joes advice and it will work out well!!
Where I work in Chicago, the company gets hardened gun nails to shoot into concrete. They are 2 1/2" nails I think. We do a lot of panels on slabs. Waiting for interior walls would take too long.
On most commercial jobs we use the nail/wire trick. Drill a 3/16 hole through wood and into concrete, insert a piece of tie wire and drive in a 16d duplex nail. You can double the wire if fastening into brick,block, or old cinder cement, or if you are using it for a permanent fastener. We use this technique for plates for forms and all types of bracing. It is cheaper than tapcons. I have seen guys use weedwacker line in place of wire but that seems expensive and the only reason they gave me for using it was it didn't rust. I guess they thought it would make removal easier being that their forms and braces stayed on, in the weather for extended periods of time. I have been on jobs where the wire/nails sat for weeks and didn't have any problems pulling them
Get hardened concrete nails for your nailgun. If you can't nail your braces to your bottom plates as others have said, Nail to blocks.Sometimes on fresh slabs 131's work.What is common practice here, is to extend braces to another wall. A 4 or 5 foot upright supports spliced braces in a garage situation. Any flooring you use will require some "tweaking" on a SOG anyway, so if you need to patch nail holes no big deal. All I do is SOG and occasionally the concrete is finished--- all i do is extend the brace to a sill plate and support it in the center. Any other case I nail into concrete.
Similar to what spike posted above.
I use 1/4 masonry bit and 2 sinkers for temp. bracing holes.
Use the same 1/4" bit with 3 sinkers for permanent fastening.
Thanks for the help guys.