I’m planning on doing some frame and panel wainscoting, 3/4″ thick and then running base over it. The problem is that the base + wainscoting is thicker than the door casing. So, what’s the best way to terminate the base?
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Replies
Faced with this situation before I've used a plinth block at the bottom of the door casing.
I've seen the plinth block option, and the mitered return as Hammer1 suggests. I think the plinth block looks better, but I just have to convince myself that this will go with the rest of the design.
A drawback to the plinth block is that their use in one room, or on one side of a door opening, could detract from an otherwise uniform trim scheme throughout the home.
If this is NOT the side of the jamb that the Door opens to....
Maybe pull the casing, fir the jamb out and reinstall a casing (with it's own return to the wall). This would maintain the harmony of the trim, if it's consistent and it that's a concern.
Maybe I'm missing somethign with your description - but why would it matter which way the door swings?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
It would be possible for the build-out of chair-rail to add enough dimensiion to prevent the dorr from lying flat aainst the wall, or to even cause hinge tear-out.
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ahh, I see. Sounds like something I would do, then realize it was a dumb mistake after the fact.
Glad I heard it on Breaktime first!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Why do you need baseboard on top of the wainscot? Won't the bottom rail of the wainscot be baseboard enough? If the design calls for an extra baseboard piece, could you just stop it with a mitered return?
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
You could put up the base first and sit the wainscotting on top of it with the base a bit proud of the WS or as I do in your situation bevel back the corner of the base with my rasp and some sandpaper. I actually like the look.
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In this early 19th century example, the wainscot frame overlaps the door casing.
Photo attached below.
Now this I've never seen before. Can't get past the idea that it looks "backwards" but a creative suggestion.
Thanks all for the help.
Just cause it's old, doesn't mean it's good :-)
It IS an interesting solution to the problem. That's one of the things I love about woodworking, and this forum - there all kinds of ways to do it "right". It's also cool to think about someone over 100 years ago looking at it and scraching their head. How in the world did they get by without Breaktime - LOL!
That looks so exactly like a couple house from 1800 to 1830 t5hat I have worked on - but not always elegant looking. It's good in the right plave, depending on the rest of the style
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Yeah, I think in context it works. In this case, that's a very simple dining room in a Greek Revival farmhouse.
Having the panel on the same plane as the door architrave (which itself is just a flat board) is also repeated on the front porch of the same house. Photo attached on next message.
Allen
Edited 6/23/2006 8:19 am ET by WNYguy
Here's the front porch panel. Panel frame overlaps door architrave.
View Image
Allen
Here's another version of the bottom rail serving as the baseboard (if I've attached the pic correctly). The base and casing were original to the house (~1840's), the wainscote is circa last April, designed to fit around the existing base and casing.
I dont think anyone has mentioned what I would do . If they have my apology.
Ive done it with built up edge trim around all doors and windows. Theres different ways to do it but a simple larger out side corner over the existing face trim can give it more depth and look more expensive as well. Ive seen other molding as well that was custom made.
Tim
Mooney,
Now that's a great idea I hadn't thought of...What kind of profile do you add to the already-installed-casing to achieve the look you mention? I can imagine that the sky would be the limit. Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
"Now that's a great idea I hadn't thought of...What kind of profile do you add to the already-installed-casing to achieve the look you mention? I can imagine that the sky would be the limit."
I never thought it was any thing special at all . Just got there and had a problem with the wall covering over hanging the trim. In my case the first time I did it , I was drywalling over paneling that had been stuck behind the base but it was fit to the window and door trim . The trim was suppose to stay so I milled an out side corner to come inside on the face of the trim 1 1/4 and used an ogee to cut the inside corner back. Only reason I did that was to match the window and door stops. I actually saw a beaded trim at Lowes that was supposed to do the same thing so it wasnt really my idea . I stole it and it seemed to be the cheapest remedy. I did remove the window aprons and reinstall. The end result was a massive look of detail.
Since then when I needed a "little " to cover Ive simply used large out side corner with the back side ripped down to fit the extrusion. In that case it doesnt even have to fit the wall as drywall covers it . Its a quick fix for that application and staying cheap.
Then on one I figgured the heck with the return because the drywall was proud of all of the trim . I went out to the pile and saw some #1- 1x4s and sawed them in half. I ran the edge on a joiner and gave the inside edge a round over again to match the door stops. Nothing fancy but again the detail looked more expensive when it was all painted white. Those faces were 1x8s on 7ft doors.
Ive installed a lot of drywall in older homes and had to come up with ways to do it is all.
Instead of going part way up like in this thread I was going full height around the rooms .
Tim
Here's one with the plinth block idea. I would just do the wainscoting without the base, I think in most cases it will look the best. If the house is very high end and all the trim, size of rooms and luxury of the house are there then I would do the baseboard. I left the picture large so you can see the detail. I also added a compressed file for the dial ups
Edited 6/22/2006 8:08 pm ET by DDay
Nice place, ya got more pix
Doug
Not my place but here's a few more pics. I met the builder last year when they were framing it, it will be finished in another month. I think its about $5.5 to $6m. Very nice workmanship and in the nicest and most expensive town in MA, Weston. I end up seeing these when I'm mountain biking through trails, so I take a few pic's here and there to get a few ideas.
This house has lots of copper, gutter, flashing, etc. and in the front pic you can see the large dome of copper.
Thanks DDay, where else am I going to steal ideas if you guys dont post pictures!
Doug
Here's a few links for some builders that I get some ideas from. Also, the bottom link is to a design magazine, there are links to most of those companies websites.
http://www.kenvona.com/
http://www.thoughtforms-corp.com/gallery.html
http://www.hallmarkcompanies.com/
http://www.bostondesignguide.com/interior/find.html
Thanks DD
Theirs all sorts of good ideas in there for me to barrow.
Doug
I get all kinds of ideas like those. Some of the very best builders, its difficult to use much since the homes have 10' or greater ceilings, the sizes of the houses, etc. Some also use a lot of clear cherry, mahogany, etc. and the costs are just too great.
I have all kinds of pic's from places I've seen and a few from the web. I find it much easier to just keep copies on the computer so I can keep track of them.
Beautiful design, fantastic work!!
So, what's the best way to terminate the base?
Is there not a stile on the w/s abutting the door casing, too?
Like as not, what ever you do with the base, you'll also do with the cap trim on the w/s. What I've seen is to just return the mouldings back to make a clean joint. That, or build a "pilaster" of sorts, to "die" the mouldings into (like running backband on the door & window casing in that one room only).
you can use a backband on the casing