Replies

1. 
   AndyEngel | Feb 06, 2014 01:56pm | #1

   Easy

   You can buy expanding rubber plugs for toilet flanges, etc.. You can also buy glue on caps for sink drains and so forth. You'll also need what I've always called a "weenie", a long, inflateable plug that you insert in the last cleanout before the waste line exits the house. HD or Lowes will have most if not all of this stuff. When all the holes are plugged, you fill the system from the highest bathtub, up to the overflow. That's it. Look for leaks by eye. A lot of times, you'll need to tighten cleanout plugs, particularly in the lowest levels because there's signifcant head pushing the water out. Don't do this when it's freezing, BTW.

   When you pass the test, deflate the weenie. Be sure to hold on to your weenie, though, because there may be significant force from the exiting water trying to pull it out into the sewer or septic.

1. 
   DoRight | Feb 06, 2014 02:02pm | #2

   Thanks Andy

   Since I posted the question I have googled some of the items you mentioned.  the baloons look expensive and how to you plug the overflow drain in a bath tub.

   If you agree that the equipment and plugs are expensive, do you think it would be cost effective to hire a plumber to preform only this test for me, since he would likely have the gauges, plugs, baloons, etc.  Or do you think if I am willing to keep working outhte details as how to do this I could save a pretty penny?

   Thanks again.

1. 
   junkhound | Feb 06, 2014 07:08pm | #4

   how to you plug the overflow drain in a bath tub

   pressure test BEFORE you install the tub - plug the trap or pipe to the trap.

   I use rubber plugs that have a big bolt thru them.  Cheap 1-1/2" plugs can be had at auto parts store - ask for removeable or rubber  'freeze plugs'.

2. 
   AndyEngel | Feb 07, 2014 08:32am | #5

   Expensive? Nah.

   Not compared to hiring someone. Part of what you pay for when you hire a pro is the tools. If you're going to do it yourself, you need to accept that as part of your cost. When you're done, sell the weenie on eBay. I'll leave it to others to word the ad.

   Do you have a bathtub on a lower level? If so, then you need to test before it's installed, or cap the rough drains for the test, then hook them to the tub after. If the tub is on the upper level, then the overflow doesn't get capped. That becomes the high water level. There's no need to fill above that.

1. 
   DoRight | Feb 07, 2014 05:39pm | #6

   My understanding ...

   My understanding is that if you do a water test you need to have ten feet of head above the highest fixture.  I will have to look into it more.  the whole thing seems annoying. I think you would ahve to be an idiot to have a leak in ABS pipe, the glue is so easy.  Soldered copper pipe?  Well I am an ametur, but I have sweated dozens of joints and never had a leak, but can see how you could screw that up, not enough fluks 9spellling?), wet joint, etc.

   Oh well, go with the system.  Like everythign else I have every done as a DIY spend the time to learn someting and then just do it.  Thanks for the input. 

   As for part of paying for a pro is paying for his tools, sure, but you would figure it would be ammortized over many customers and could end up saving the customer money.  Not allows, of course.  Depends on how expensive teh tools are for teh one off customer to do it himself.  This is why I don't own a backhoe. 

1. 
   sapwood | Feb 08, 2014 09:53pm | #7

   The cost for the plugs is negligible compared to the job cost. The hassle is what you make it. I don't like inspections either but these are the rules we live under so I go along. And yes to filling the system above the highest fixture. I don't remember the exact amount, ask your inspector. His/her test will be to bang on the pipes to check if they are holding water. If yes, you're golden. 

2. 
   AndyEngel | Feb 10, 2014 10:04am | #8

   I do own a backhoe...

   ... but prior to that, I rented as needed.

   I'm familiar with the 10 ft. head requirement, and have done that to test under-slab lines, but I've never seen it imposed on house plumbing.

3. 
   DanH | Feb 10, 2014 06:49pm | #9

   I was told about 10 years ago that a 10-foot head is the rule around here.  Didn't quite get it from the horse's mouth, but from a guy who'd had to keep the horse happy many times.

2. 
   DanH | Feb 06, 2014 06:28pm | #3

   The "weenie" used to be known

   The "weenie" used to be known as a Donkey D*ck (and actually sold under that brand name).

   And, yes, always hold onto your weenie!

2. 
   rich1 | Feb 15, 2014 08:21am | #10

   cap all the lines, plugs, glued caps, whatever.  In the basement, glue a threaded adapter onto one of the pipes and install a hose bibb.  Don't forget to plug the main with the inflatable plug.  fill the system through the hose bibb untill water comes out the roof vent.   You want to test every joint and every piece of pipe in the system.  Then you can drain through the hose bibb.  It's a lot less exciting this way.  It is possible to have a bad joint, and water tends to leak where air might not.  Any "pro" that says he has never had a leak is lying. 

   And you pay for a lot more than just the tools.  Our comp insurance just went up 70 cents per man hour.  Ouch.

1. 
   DanH | Feb 15, 2014 09:16am | #11

   Of course, if you fill until water comes out the roof vent you don't want a traditional lead boot, or water will run down the vent pipe into the house.